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37s, 38s, 39s, and 40s! What would you have done differently?

Zachanadandy

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Drag link maybe but probably not tie rod. I did say most.
I don't think I've seen a lift kit that comes with either? Maybe they exist? Track bars and control arms with the higher end kits for sure, although I prefer the triangulated rear and the flipped drag link so I'd never be able to buy an off the shelf kit anyway.
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pvn.jt24

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So with all the replies, I definitely understand everyone’s point of view.

1. Get the best, don’t cheap out.
2. Ride it till things start to break.

I’m definitely interested in the knowledge you guys have about the Jeep Gladiator and it seems that there are different approaches to what you guys started replacing when it came to mounting larger tires.

I actually do know that it’ll take greats amount of effort in order to “properly” fit these larger tires and yes, I see your guys replies about running a spacer as well.

Interestingly enough, that spacers aren’t talked down upon in the Jeep world as it was in the Toyota world.

Honestly, right now, I’m not looking to put a hole in my wallet on upgrades without knowing the style of driving I’ll be doing with my Gladiator. But, so far, I’ve thought about upgrades that will beef up the rig so once I get wheels and tires, that I know everything will hold up to running those larger tires.

I’m hearing a lot of geometry correction and caster issues, can someone elaborate more on this? With the solid axle, is the caster too close to the cab or too far from the cab causing it to feel like you’re coasting?
 

Zachanadandy

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Some kits come with new drag links but I think you’re right about the tie rod
Even specifically searching for a lift kit with a drag link I don't see any? There are adjustable link kits that come with steering and control arms that I can find but not full lift kits? Track bars and arms for sure, but I'm not seeing any that have the steering components. Not that it matters, you can a la carte whatever parts you want.
 

Zachanadandy

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So with all the replies, I definitely understand everyone’s point of view.

1. Get the best, don’t cheap out.
2. Ride it till things start to break.

I’m definitely interested in the knowledge you guys have about the Jeep Gladiator and it seems that there are different approaches to what you guys started replacing when it came to mounting larger tires.

I actually do know that it’ll take greats amount of effort in order to “properly” fit these larger tires and yes, I see your guys replies about running a spacer as well.

Interestingly enough, that spacers aren’t talked down upon in the Jeep world as it was in the Toyota world.

Honestly, right now, I’m not looking to put a hole in my wallet on upgrades without knowing the style of driving I’ll be doing with my Gladiator. But, so far, I’ve thought about upgrades that will beef up the rig so once I get wheels and tires, that I know everything will hold up to running those larger tires.

I’m hearing a lot of geometry correction and caster issues, can someone elaborate more on this? With the solid axle, is the caster too close to the cab or too far from the cab causing it to feel like you’re coasting?
A spacer on an ifs rig llimits droop even further than stock and puts the cv axles closer to their operating limits. That's why they are talked down in the Toyota world. On a Jeep, especially if you add longer travel shocks, the spacer can add uptravel and downtravel as you can droop further without the coils unseating. As far as caster, the issue is the angle itself not necessarily the distance from the cab. If you lift a solid axle rig without adding drop brackets or longer lower control arms the suspension rotates the pinion upward at ride height, which reduces caster. The low caster angle makes the steering feel loose and wanders with poor return to center resulting in constant steering inputs even when driving straight.
 

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Zachanadandy

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The Fabtech kit I’ve been looking at comes with a new drag link to flip it on top and corrects the track bar angle too. Metalcloak includes drag links in some of their kits
Nice find, looks like both of those kits include drag link flips which makes sense at 4.5-5". If your rock crawling days are behind you as you say, why a 5" kit? You could clear 42s with that much lift. Just swapping out the mojave springs and 2" spacer for metalcloak 3.5" springs has the 37s looking small. That's a lot of lift in my opinion.
 

VA6489

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I guess there are those who build for show and other who build for go... we build for the long run here.

Enjoyed the interaction.
 

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The situation being don't use it as a battering ram on the rocks and it's ok. If you want to use your steering as a bull dozer you need to upgrade it.
Wasn't being used as a dozer, it was more of a backing down a bit too far to reposition the rear end and front tire fell back off the ledge, landing on tie-rod.

I was going to leave out the fact my wife was driving, but I was spotting. :D

Jim
 

MRPRmojave

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I have wheeled the absolute crap out of the Mojave. with alot of stock componets.

I think the most important decision is your tire selection. It is the only "upgrade" that actually touches the road. I went with 37 KO2's in a C rated tire. Light, great traction and IMHO look awesome. With them only being a couple of pounds heavier than the stock wildpeaks, I feel I have virtually not lost any performance.

Within the past year I have upgraded alot of parts, I think the Steer Smarts sector shaft brace with the Metal Claok drag link was the best upgrade I have done period. People with even stock jeeps that never leave the paved streets could benefit.
 

Zachanadandy

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Wasn't being used as a dozer, it was more of a backing down a bit too far to reposition the rear end and front tire fell back off the ledge, landing on tie-rod.

I was going to leave out the fact my wife was driving, but I was spotting. :D

Jim
I was just joking, I figured it wasn't intentional. Shit happens. Although I'm not sure any tie rod would hold up to dropping the full weight of the rig on it and if it did you'd probably snap the mounting point off the stock aluminum knuckle.
 

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pvn.jt24

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If you KNOW you're going to 40's, skip all the other stuff and get Dana 60's and THEN build your rig.
Now we’re talking!

Drop some more knowledge bombs please.

Axles and then what else? What order would you go in upgrading parts?

I can see we’re getting somewhere with this.
 

CyberShanks

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I was just joking, I figured it wasn't intentional. Shit happens. Although I'm not sure any tie rod would hold up to dropping the full weight of the rig on it and if it did you'd probably snap the mounting point off the stock aluminum knuckle.
Oh, I know you were joking, just explaining the situation. If I want to drive a dozer, I'll bring the TJ. It doesn't have tie-rod :D
 

CyberShanks

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Now we’re talking!

Drop some more knowledge bombs please.

Axles and then what else? What order would you go in upgrading parts?

I can see we’re getting somewhere with this.
FYI, head that direction with a Jeep and you'll need to Just Empty Every Pocket first...

You've been warned.

In all seriousness, 40s is what started the rollercoaster with my TJ, wheels, coilovers, stretch, lift, axles, brakes, full hydro, belly-up, 3-spd stak, bodylift to clear stak, new armor, etc. It starts to get pretty pricey. Maybe with a JT a lot of that won't be necessary however.

After the fact, she's pretty dang capable though. More of a point & shoot experience now.

Jim
 

Zachanadandy

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I guess there are those who build for show and other who build for go... we build for the long run here.

Enjoyed the interaction.
Things like tie rods, ball joints, and control arm bushings are wear items. Sure replacing the stockers with aftermarket they will last longer, but you already own the stock ones. Instead of replacing say ball joints at 0 miles and then every 50k (or rebuilding depending on which ones you buy), you could run the stockers for 30k even on big tires. By 100k you're buying your 3nd set where the guy that used up the stock parts is only half way into the 2nd set. Some of the aftermarket tie rods and drag links replacement ends cost nearly what the entire part costs. You aren't building for the long run your just spending more money by tossing the oem parts.
 

CyberShanks

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Things like tie rods, ball joints, and control arm bushings are wear items. Sure replacing the stockers with aftermarket they will last longer, but you already own the stock ones. Instead of replacing say ball joints at 0 miles and then every 50k (or rebuilding depending on which ones you buy), you could run the stockers for 30k even on big tires. By 100k you're buying your 3nd set where the guy that used up the stock parts is only half way into the 2nd set. Some of the aftermarket tie rods and drag links replacement ends cost nearly what the entire part costs. You aren't building for the long run your just spending more money by tossing the oem parts.
Yep, that's why I burned down my wife's stock rubi tires and we put 100k on the stock parts. I couldn't bring myself to just throw all that stuff away.

Completely a fan of replace what is necessary as it's necessary. Or, if you're going nuts with a build, lineup someone else that can benefit from your stock factory parts, say someone with a stock rig with more miles, or a lower trim model, etc.

Jim
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