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38s with a "2.5" lift

glassjawkid32

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I have an icon lift with 35s and I should have listened and skipped 35s. My question is how much articulation I'd realistically give up with 3 inches of bumpstop for 38s? Currently running 2 inches bump stop up front and an inch in the rear.
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CrazyCooter

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You have Rubi fenders?

I'm currently running 2" front, 1" rear, 4.75" BS wheels, and 38x12.50 Ridge Grappys on a Rubi diesel. A gas truck will likely require 3-4" front bump spacer.

You certainly don't want to end up like a stock diesel without enough up travel and bottoming all the time?
 
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glassjawkid32

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Uh...is this a trick question? You'd give up basically whatever you add in bumpstop.
Yes obviously, but there are posts on the jl forums and here that say 2.5 isn't enough for more than 37s. I'm curious if anyone's running a similar set up and how much that extra inch will effect the overall picture in a 2.5 lift specifically.
 
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glassjawkid32

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You have Rubi fenders?

I'm currently running 2" front, 1" rear, 4.75" BS wheels, and 38x12.50 Ridge Grappys on a Rubi diesel. A gas truck will likely require 3-4" front bump spacer.

You certainly don't want to end up like a stock diesel without enough up travel and bottoming all the time?
I have 2 piece sport fenders that I'm planning to chop whether I move up to 37s or 38s. Also on 4.75 BS so hoping my max tow axles can fit a 13.50 with that backspacing. Currently I have a 1 inch puck in the front and metalcloak jounces front and rear. So effectively 2 inches up front and 1 in the back. Just want to make sure I'm not going to cripple my articulation with that much bumpstop as I know I'll lose an inch of up travel but don't know how that would possibly affect the other side of the axle on trails.
 

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bleda2002

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I have 2 piece sport fenders that I'm planning to chop whether I move up to 37s or 38s. Also on 4.75 BS so hoping my max tow axles can fit a 13.50 with that backspacing. Currently I have a 1 inch puck in the front and metalcloak jounces front and rear. So effectively 2 inches up front and 1 in the back. Just want to make sure I'm not going to cripple my articulation with that much bumpstop as I know I'll lose an inch of up travel but don't know how that would possibly affect the other side of the axle on trails.
That is no where near enough lift to realistically fit 38s. I'm a rubi on a Clayton 2.5 (basically 3 inches in the front), chopped high line fenders and need 2.5” to fit BFG 39s. You have about 1 inch less lift and another inch or 2 less fender clearance so you will probably be at 4± inches of bumpstop and will be crippling your up travel.
 

CrazyCooter

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I have 2 piece sport fenders that I'm planning to chop whether I move up to 37s or 38s. Also on 4.75 BS so hoping my max tow axles can fit a 13.50 with that backspacing. Currently I have a 1 inch puck in the front and metalcloak jounces front and rear. So effectively 2 inches up front and 1 in the back. Just want to make sure I'm not going to cripple my articulation with that much bumpstop as I know I'll lose an inch of up travel but don't know how that would possibly affect the other side of the axle on trails.
I also run MC bumps and 1" puck, but I also have the longer diesel bump tubes. You might need more depending on you fender situation.
 
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glassjawkid32

glassjawkid32

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That is no where near enough lift to realistically fit 38s. I'm a rubi on a Clayton 2.5 (basically 3 inches in the front), chopped high line fenders and need 2.5” to fit BFG 39s. You have about 1 inch less lift and another inch or 2 less fender clearance so you will probably be at 4± inches of bumpstop and will be crippling your up travel.
I don't believe the icon lift to be only 2.5 inches which is part of what has me considering 38s. It sits noticably higher than my 2.5 level did and in a trail recon video they measured the front lift at 3.4 inches on a rubi jl. The rear is obviously a different story but the front springs and shocks are the same.
 

CrazyCooter

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Aren't they amazing compared to stock?? One of the best things I did to the truck for next to nothing.
I ran stock for about 12 miles and then swapped a spacer lift. I later went to Fox Air bumps, but just went back to the MC bumps since my EClik shocks have a bump zone built in.

I've been incorporating them into every build at the shop though since they do absorb energy well.
 

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bleda2002

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I don't believe the icon lift to be only 2.5 inches which is part of what has me considering 38s. It sits noticably higher than my 2.5 level did and in a trail recon video they measured the front lift at 3.4 inches on a rubi jl. The rear is obviously a different story but the front springs and shocks are the same.
But your fenders are also much lower than a Rubicons, I'm still thinking you will be really close to 4 inches of bump to keep it out (on top of the mc 1 inch). My 2.5 inches of bump is really more like 3.5 as I have the teraflex progressive bumps.
 

Bjeepz

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Perhaps consider adding rubi/mojave front fenders and remove the bottom section?
 
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glassjawkid32

glassjawkid32

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But your fenders are also much lower than a Rubicons, I'm still thinking you will be really close to 4 inches of bump to keep it out (on top of the mc 1 inch). My 2.5 inches of bump is really more like 3.5 as I have the teraflex progressive bumps.
Fair enough I'll probably stick to 37s then.
 
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glassjawkid32

glassjawkid32

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Perhaps consider adding rubi/mojave front fenders and remove the bottom section?
It's crossed my mind. It's all form and no function but I'd really like to keep my billet silver flares. Those could be hard to track down.
 

Bjeepz

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Exploring front fender options might be needed to keep the rig performing well. I can't imagine adding 4 inches of bump stop as suggested above. I added 1 inch coil spacers to my Mojave and have room for 37's, the current 35's have plenty of room.
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