$4000 budget for lift and rims and tires.

[Barnaby’sdad]

I wouldn’t recommend biting off more than you can chew while you’re in the employment boat. Given your situation…it might be worth looking into JTR take-offs as a “tide you over” for now kind of thing.

Note - This is post #16 and unless I missed it, not one previous responder mentioned that you’ll need to come up with a programmer to address the new tire size.

That’s going to run you $200+. That wouldn’t be a big deal for an average person that’s looking at pouring money into their JT, but for someone that has a hard ceiling on the project cost?

I’m throwing that out there to make the point that things can and will pop-up that will cost you money above and beyond your initial expectation.

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[Wheelin98TJ]

I wouldn’t recommend biting off more than you can chew while you’re in the employment boat. Given your situation…it might be worth looking into JTR take-offs as a “tide you over” for now kind of thing.

Note - This is post #16 and unless I missed it, not one previous responder mentioned that you’ll need to come up with a programmer to address the new tire size.

That’s going to run you $200+. That wouldn’t be a big deal for an average person that’s looking at pouring money into their JT, but for someone that has a hard ceiling on the project cost?

I’m throwing that out there to make the point that things can and will pop-up that will cost you money above and beyond your initial expectation.

$200 on $4k is only 5%. Not a deal breaker even on a tight budget in my opinion.

 

[glassjawkid32]

Icon stage 1 with mopar LCAs and fill remainder with wheels and tires. Self installed its a good set up around that price point.

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

$200 on $4k is only 5%. Not a deal breaker even on a tight budget in my opinion.

That’s pretty solid (enabling) advice. You win the internets.

 

[Dougstdig]

Just bought a 22 High Altitude Gladiator. Wanted to put some 17' rims with 35' tires and a 2.5 inch lift kit. Just need some advice for what kind of lift kit that won't mess up the factory ride that much. My local shop is suggesting the RC 2.5 lift kit with M1 shocks with a RC N3 steering stabilizer dual. Im thinking abt going with the Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Whats y'all suggestions? I have a budget of $4000 since im laid off rite now. Thank you .

My recommendation to you is to fix the laid off problem before you entertain the thought of spending $4000 on anything. That’s speaking from real life recent experience.

 

[bleda2002]

That’s going to run you $200+. That wouldn’t be a big deal for an average person that’s looking at pouring money into their JT, but for someone that has a hard ceiling on the project cost?

I’m throwing that out there to make the point that things can and will pop-up that will cost you money above and beyond your initial expectation.

Just go jscan, it's the best programmer out there for things like gears and tires because it sticks until a full dealer flash (instead of losing it all when you unmarry to take to the dealer) and whole kit is under 100 bucks with license. Another option is if you buy the AEV spacer kit it comes with a procal includes.

 

[HappyGladiator]

Use this down time to research what you want to end up with. That $4K is a good rainy day fund.

 

[Teqsand]

RUSTYs lift is the best bang for the buck... rides great on and off road.... I drive mine like a sportscar through the turns

 

[SSinGA]

If this Gladiator is primarily for on road use then why not just a spacer lift?

The AEV spacer kit would be perfect IMO and it comes with the ProCal for the tire calibration. I'd probably add the geometry correction brackets to adjust caster to avoid any wobble.

The kits is all "hard parts" so if you want to upgrade down the road you could easily remove and sell the kit. To save extra $$ I'd enlist the help of a few friends and do a DIY driveway install.

 

[djthumper]

I have been running a Skyjacker 2.5" lift. Dual rate springs were a definitely plus.

 

[Dougstdig]

The kits is all "hard parts" so if you want to upgrade down the road you could easily remove and sell the kit. To save extra $$ I'd enlist the help of a few friends and do a DIY driveway install.

Id say, if you’re going to upgrade down the road, why not limit the parts you’ll have to remove and resale at a heavy discount and start with a lower level kit like the Clayton Offroad Ride Right+ kit?

 

[Minty JL]

So $4000 id very doable, just gotta be crafty and shop around. Here's where I'm at with my JTM. MIne rides even better then it was stock, I installed the lift when it under 1000 miles on it

With the exception of mounting the tires I did all of the work in my home garage, so I saved probably $700 in labor cost based on my local shop rates

$550 - AEV 2" spacer lift (pretty much retail)
$70 - Mopar performance LCAs (adjust for caster)
$330 - Fox FACTORY RACE SERIES 2.0 ATS STABILIZER - 983-02-148 (on sale, Now $475)
$460 - Maxxis RAZR M/T 37x13.5r17 tires (stupid sale on Walmart) Normally $475ea
$1050 - Method Roost wheels 17x8.5 (caught a good group sale here on the forum
$200 - new OEM TPMS sensors - from the dealer
$75 - Method lug nuts (shipped)
$150 - Mount and balance (Roadforce) from a local friend
-------
$2885 sub total
- $1000 sold OEM Mojave wheels/tires
-------
$1885 Total

 

[cafecito]

On road mostly and fire/dirt roads maybe? If so just go with a 2" spacer lift and some shock extensions or some bilstein 5100s or fox 2.0s and the mopar lower control arms. That will get you the lift, keep the stock ride with better dampening, and only be 1K so you could spend 3K on tires and rims. Personally i'd try to find some take off XR or Bronco 35's (315/70r17) to save on the tires too unless you are set on the nittos.

The sky is the limit on lifts, but it really depends on what you're trying to do with the truck. If all you need is to fit 35's comfortably and get it up the air a spacer lift works just fine.

This. 35s are solidly middle-of-the-road in terms of Jeep tire size, so you don't need to drop half your budget on a big expensive lift. Just find a well made spacer lift kit and keep the stock suspension; this will leave you well over $3000 for really nice wheels and tires (which can exceed $3000 very quickly).

My personal recommendation would be the AEV 2" Spacer Lift Kit with the Geometry Correction Brackets.

The geometry brackets are technically optional, but I would still advise getting them. They're not very expensive, and they compensate for the increased driveline and caster angles that you get from lifting the cab of your vehicle. Bad driveline and caster angles often come up in conversations about premature wear and death wobble, so do things right the first time and you won't worry about it later.

I run this setup on my Mojave, and it's been great. Every piece was very well made, it was easy to install (if time-consuming), and I have had zero issues with it.

Could an experienced driver tell the difference between my setup and a $2000-3000 Clayton kit? Sure. But if you're content with the way the stock suspension handles, there's no reason to futz with it. Spend your dough on the wheels and tires, and you'll be happier in the long run.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

The Clayton setup isnt good for off-road… it’s a pavement kit per their guidance. i Figure it’s worthwhile to mention that. I a,most picked one up until somebody explained that to me.

Hey there, not sure if something was just misunderstood, but all of our kits are of course going to be great off-road, especially our full systems like our Overland Plus and Premium system. While the Ride Right kit is intended to be an entry-level system, it is more than capable of getting you through whatever you want to throw at it off road, you just have to keep in mind that because you are still riding on some factory control arms/bushings at a lifted height those bushings are going to wear out quickly and limit your capabilities. The Ride Right system is also fully upgradeable, so bump stop extensions or additional control arms can be added in at any time!

 

[TheDerb]

Hey there, not sure if something was just misunderstood, but all of our kits are of course going to be great off-road, especially our full systems like our Overland Plus and Premium system. While the Ride Right kit is intended to be an entry-level system, it is more than capable of getting you through whatever you want to throw at it off road, you just have to keep in mind that because you are still riding on some factory control arms/bushings at a lifted height those bushings are going to wear out quickly and limit your capabilities. The Ride Right system is also fully upgradeable, so bump stop extensions or additional control arms can be added in at any time!

I appreciate your response. Nothing was "just misunderstood". Myself and a group of buddies were discussing upgrades, and we read this on your product page:

"for anyone looking to fit a larger set of wheels and tires, maintain ride quality with proper suspension geometry, and that primarily plans on keeping the vehicle on the pavement rather than on the trail."

We took it at face value- I don't read a manual that says "don't go faster than 3 mph when putting your vehicle into 4L" and then go and try to drop it into 4L at highway speeds. I just take the manufacturers word for it. That isn't a "misunderstanding", it's reading words that mean something.

Respectfully, assuming that someone misunderstood a very clearly worded and salient use-case description is sort of insulting. Granted, it's a Wednesday morning and by Friday I won't remember this, but honestly- it says it on your own product description.

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