7" Heated Truck-lite LED malfunctioning on Sport S.

[silvertoy]

I tried to search this exact issue, but came up short, but will be happy to be proven wrong.
So I had a pair of Heated Truck-lite 7" LEDs that were previously installed on my JK (used for about 2 years then sat on a shelf for 3 years) that I decided to install on my Gladiator Sport S. I used the quadratec 7-9" adapters with PWM adapters. They worked great for a couple of days. Then one day when I unlocked, noticed one side did not light. High beams worked, no low beams. The next day they both worked again - then the low beams stopped later that day. I swapped out the PWM with my old ones from the JK, they worked again. Now, the next day, this morning, they came on for 10 seconds, but then they flickered once and neither high or low beams were working again on pass side. I just took them out and plugged them straight into a 12v supply and high and low beams worked. Put back into the jeep, working again. Is there a potential that the lower LED voltage is tricking the computer to just shut them down? Seems they're less likely to work when cooler. Slowly losing my mind....

Sponsored

 

[Mr._Bill]

You may need to get a programming device (AlfaOBD, Jscan, Tazer), or take it to the dealer, and tell the truck it has LED headlights.

 

[Courtsm3]

I had expensive $300 Morimoto h13 LED headlights with the pwm and I had two fail. I gave up and I blame it on my Jeep. BUT my cheap $60 amazon h13 LEDs work great with a pwm built in. Just about a year and running strong. I dunno man, wish I could help.

 

[silvertoy]

So, correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the tazer programming was supposed to be in lieu of the pwm adapters to eliminate the flicker. Or perhaps there's a secondary purpose (to accept the reduced voltage as normal) that I wasn't aware of. ???

 

[Mr._Bill]

It could be the heaters causing the draw to be higher than the computer expects and it is shutting off the power to lights because of the 'problem' it senses.

 

[silvertoy]

It could be the heaters causing the draw to be higher than the computer expects and it is shutting off the power to lights because of the 'problem' it senses.

I think they come on at either 40 or 50F. Hasn't been that cold yet, but who knows?

 

[silvertoy]

This morning, (50deg F out) they were both on leaving my garage, then within 15 seconds the pass side turns off, I put on my high beams, both are on, then the pass side goes out 5 seconds later, I try flipping between high and low, then suddenly, both sides are out, I drive to work with my fog lights on only. Get to work and turn on low beams to test... Driver side low beams' working (pic 1) then 5 seconds after I grabbed that shot, out it goes. Neither high or low beam, not even momentarily.

I think there may be something to the whole comment on the heater kicking off some kind of relay for over voltage protection, or maybe the pwm adapters. Is anyone else running truck-lite heated LEDs on this forum?


....

 

[silvertoy]

OMG, I can't win. I put the factory Halogens back in an put some Sylvania bulbs in, One of them violently exploded and smoked and scuffed up the inside of my factory headlight assembly. So, I'm fully back to stock now.

 

[silvertoy]

To that point, does anybody happen to know whether or not the bulbs currently used are some special high voltage bulb.? I'm wondering if that might be the issue here, when I put in an old school set of Sylvania silver stars.. The darn things just exploded. I mean, I know I'm a mechanical engineer and not an electrical engineer, but unless these are a different voltage than 12 V Shouldn't they just draw what they draw? Or maybe the PWM adapters and possible resistors in those adapters combined with the heating elements draws too much current, leading the jeep to sense a fault and kill it?

 

[silvertoy]

Okay, I'm at a loss, and my wallet is taking the brunt of the trauma)
-I had the factory halogens on my 2021 Sport S, so it's likely programmed for halogen.
-I gave up on the Trucklite Heated LEDs with the anti-flicker harness because they go off at random times, usually right after starting the jeep and opening up my garage door to the cold, (so I assumed the heaters were to blame.)
-I did some digging and heard the Bunker Industries 9" leds were a good fit and worked without needing any anti-flicker harness (all comments on other forums stated they must be built in.). I put them in, adjusted them and then and they looked awesome... Started the engine and they slowly started flickering and soon they were at full on disco, crazy strobe action, obviously, no anti-flicker hardware.... But they stayed on.

Anyone know of an h13 anti-flicker harness? Actually, I think I'll need a Jeep connector harness because that's what the Bunker Industries connectors wee, they went straight to the jeep harness. I coukd always make one with my old jeep-h4 harness from my 7" trucklites..

Am I going to have to break down and buy a tazer and start all over again?

I REALLY don't want to go that route since I'm leasing.

 

[silvertoy]

Okay, one last summary/question. Is it worth making my own anti-flicker harness for the bunker industry lights, or will I just continue to be plagued by demons such as random light shutdown if I don't do the tazer?

 

[Josh00333]

Orical lights and a tazer.

You’re working to hard on the solutions.

 

[silvertoy]

Orical lights and a tazer.

You’re working to hard on the solutions.

For sure, I was trying to go the free/cheap route (already had the heated truck-lites) that didn't involve programming (this is a lease).

Are the heated 9" oracles available yet?

 

[silvertoy]

OK peeps, I'm at a loss. I broke down and bought the tazer Mini. But now I'm back to my 1st problem. I had the Bunker Industry's LEDs, but they flickered, which is fixed, But now, once the engine is on, one or both sides randomly shuts off on low beams and I flip back to low beams .. I put the truck light heated ones back in the same thing the computer keeps shutting them down and I don't know why I so Tazer wasn't the answer. Does anyone have a clue if this is a recent 2021 part shortage substitution thing? Something where if you don't buy the Factory LED package it aint gonna work?

 

[Tim]

OK peeps, I'm at a loss. I broke down and bought the tazer Mini. But now I'm back to my 1st problem. I had the Bunker Industry's LEDs, but they flickered, which is fixed, But now, once the engine is on, one or both sides randomly shuts off on low beams and I flip back to low beams .. I put the truck light heated ones back in the same thing the computer keeps shutting them down and I don't know why I so Tazer wasn't the answer. Does anyone have a clue if this is a recent 2021 part shortage substitution thing? Something where if you don't buy the Factory LED package it aint gonna work?

After you made changes with the Tazer did you do a full reboot followed by 2 sleep cycles? This seems critical in making sure changes "stick."

Sponsored