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Lost1wing

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You need to check your fuse array at this point. Get a vom and check n1 n2 n3 and N7. I would start there before anything else is replaced.
If you are using a generic code reader that only reades P codes, I would suggest a different code reader that reads all code. You could have U or B codes pointing to your issue.

With the engine running, n1 n2 n3 and n7 should all be the same or very close. If one of your N fuses are blown, it is possible to see a different voltage on those terminals.

With the engine off you could isolate each terminal at these points and check continuity.
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You need to check your fuse array at this point. Get a vom and check n1 n2 n3 and N7. I would start there before anything else is replaced.
Checking for juice on both sides of the fuse?

Thank you Sir!
 
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Is this accurate?

All I did was reconnect everything ................. and start it, light still one

IBS > Clear/Reset:
IBS Sensor: Mopar 68289207AC


Disconnect all 12v power to the JL/JT *

Now, when 12v power is restored, the IBS starts a lengthy relearn process.

Until the relearn process is complete, accurate battery state (MAIN battery) information is unavailable to other vehicle systems.

This relearning process requires 5 normal, operator initiated starts with at least eight hours off time between each start. Usually, the process takes a few days of vehicle operation to complete.

Important: The relearning process is restarted every time power is reconnected to the IBS after a complete 12v power disconnection in regard to the vehicle. This has a major effect on the stop/start feature. (ESS)
 

Lost1wing

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Checking for juice on both sides of the fuse?

Thank you Sir!
With the engine running, you should see 14vdc at n7 and n2, if you see 14vdc at n7 and 12vdc at n2 N7 fuse is blown. If you see 12vdc at n3, your n3 fuse is blown. If you have 14vdc at n3 and 12vdc at n1 your pcr is open.

This is with everything connected and installed like original.
 

Lost1wing

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Is this accurate?

All I did was reconnect everything ................. and start it, light still one

IBS > Clear/Reset:
IBS Sensor: Mopar 68289207AC


Disconnect all 12v power to the JL/JT *

Now, when 12v power is restored, the IBS starts a lengthy relearn process.

Until the relearn process is complete, accurate battery state (MAIN battery) information is unavailable to other vehicle systems.

This relearning process requires 5 normal, operator initiated starts with at least eight hours off time between each start. Usually, the process takes a few days of vehicle operation to complete.

Important: The relearning process is restarted every time power is reconnected to the IBS after a complete 12v power disconnection in regard to the vehicle. This has a major effect on the stop/start feature. (ESS)
Yes. You could drive it a while and see if it goes out. With a vom, you can verify 14vdc (engine running) at the fuse array. If you see 12vdc at any of those points, it will not correct itself and waiting to see what happens is not the thing to do.
 

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Lost1wing

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Is this accurate?

All I did was reconnect everything ................. and start it, light still one

IBS > Clear/Reset:
IBS Sensor: Mopar 68289207AC


Disconnect all 12v power to the JL/JT *

Now, when 12v power is restored, the IBS starts a lengthy relearn process.

Until the relearn process is complete, accurate battery state (MAIN battery) information is unavailable to other vehicle systems.

This relearning process requires 5 normal, operator initiated starts with at least eight hours off time between each start. Usually, the process takes a few days of vehicle operation to complete.

Important: The relearning process is restarted every time power is reconnected to the IBS after a complete 12v power disconnection in regard to the vehicle. This has a major effect on the stop/start feature. (ESS)
Pulling just the main negative will not remove all 12vdc. You will need to pull the fender ground or that end of the fender ground at the main negative. Removing the main negative off of the post will still leave the aux battery powering the vehicle and the relearn will not happen.
 
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With the engine running, you should see 14vdc at n7 and n2, if you see 14vdc at n7 and 12vdc at n2 N7 fuse is blown. If you see 12vdc at n3, your n3 fuse is blown. If you have 14vdc at n3 and 12vdc at n1 your pcr is open.

This is with everything connected and installed like original.
That I can do!

Thanks!
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