A Small Tip for Those with Geometry Correction Brackets

[Lunentucker]

I have the Rancho brackets, and after initially installing them using the top hole, I have since moved down to the bottom hole, in two different steps of moving and testing.

What I didn't do, and should have done, each time that I moved the rear bolts, was to loosen the bolts on the axle end (front) to allow the front end to shift slightly and then be re-clamped with no pre-load.

After that thought rattled around in my head for a few months, I finally got under there and did it yesterday.
A ten minute job at the most.
As I drove today, maybe it was the placebo effect and all in my head, but I think Jeep felt smoother over bumps and handled even slight better and tracked perfectly.

So the tip is that anytime you shift the position of the rear (frame) bolts, it might be a good idea to loosen the front ones until you're done moving things around. Then re-clamp them to specs.

Credit to @ShadowsPapa for planting the seed that wouldn't get out of my head when he said something like, "It's a clamping connection. The brackets squeeze the bushings and hold them in place through a clamping force. That's why proper torque matters". Something like that. I'm paraphrasing.

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[JeepTaco]

I have the Rancho brackets, and after initially installing them using the top hole, I have since moved down to the bottom hole, in two different steps of moving and testing.

What I didn't do, and should have done, each time that I moved the rear bolts, was to loosen the bolts on the axle end (front) to allow the front end to shift slightly and then be re-clamped with no pre-load.

After that thought rattled around in my head for a few months, I finally got under there and did it yesterday.
A ten minute job at the most.
As I drove today, maybe it was the placebo effect and all in my head, but I think Jeep felt smoother over bumps and handled even slight better and tracked perfectly.

So the tip is that anytime you shift the position of the rear (frame) bolts, it might be a good idea to loosen the front ones until you're done moving things around. Then re-clamp them to specs.

Credit to @ShadowsPapa for planting the seed that wouldn't get out of my head when he said something like, "It's a clamping connection. The brackets squeeze the bushings and hold them in place through a clamping force. That's why proper torque matters". Something like that. I'm paraphrasing.

Thanks for the info. Good to know. I just ordered a set rancho geo brackets for my truck. Going to do a spacer lift, geo brackets, and 35s. I want to take it in for an alignment 1 time and 1 time only.

 

[Lunentucker]

Thanks for the info. Good to know. I just ordered a set rancho geo brackets for my truck. Going to do a spacer lift, geo brackets, and 35s. I want to take it in for an alignment 1 time and 1 time only.

Set it in the middle hole and see what that caster reading is.
Then you can drop another hole and test it if it still feels like it's trying to wander in there wind.
It's crazy how much more stable mine is in stout crosswinds now.

Really all they can do is set the toe, which you can easily adjust yourself.

 

[JeepTaco]

Set it in the middle hole and see what that caster reading is.
Then you can drop another hole and test it if it still feels like it's trying to wander in there wind.
It's crazy how much more stable mine is in stout crosswinds now.

Really all they can do is set the toe, which you can easily adjust yourself.

Nice. I'll set them in the middle and go from there.

I've adjusted toe in other vehicles but didn't have a method of measuring toe so it was an estimated adjustment.

Whats your method of measuring degrees of toe in or out?

 

[Lunentucker]

Nice. I'll set them in the middle and go from there.

I've adjusted toe in other vehicles but didn't have a method of measuring toe so it was an estimated adjustment.

Whats your method of measuring degrees of toe in or out?

Digital is easy.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/going-digital-on-toe-settings.66231/

 

[Lunentucker]

Nice. I'll set them in the middle and go from there.

I've adjusted toe in other vehicles but didn't have a method of measuring toe so it was an estimated adjustment.

Whats your method of measuring degrees of toe in or out?

One more thread to consider.
Mine is staying slightly toed out. It drives amazing and I see no adverse effects on the tires.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/toe-in-vs-toe-out.66290/

 

[MercMan54]

I have the Rancho brackets, and after initially installing them using the top hole, I have since moved down to the bottom hole, in two different steps of moving and testing.

What I didn't do, and should have done, each time that I moved the rear bolts, was to loosen the bolts on the axle end (front) to allow the front end to shift slightly and then be re-clamped with no pre-load.

After that thought rattled around in my head for a few months, I finally got under there and did it yesterday.
A ten minute job at the most.
As I drove today, maybe it was the placebo effect and all in my head, but I think Jeep felt smoother over bumps and handled even slight better and tracked perfectly.

So the tip is that anytime you shift the position of the rear (frame) bolts, it might be a good idea to loosen the front ones until you're done moving things around. Then re-clamp them to specs.

Credit to @ShadowsPapa for planting the seed that wouldn't get out of my head when he said something like, "It's a clamping connection. The brackets squeeze the bushings and hold them in place through a clamping force. That's why proper torque matters". Something like that. I'm paraphrasing.

Just curious what size lift you have?
I have a 3.5" lift and have these mounted in the top hole. It rides decent but I am going to take up your suggestion on trialing lower mounting location to middle and bottom slots for sure.

It seems like as they fit the JT, the instructions are written for the JL so I am unsure if the mounting locations are more of a trial and error for the JT? Anyway, thanks for the tip!

 

[Lunentucker]

Just curious what size lift you have?
I have a 3.5" lift and have these mounted in the top hole. It rides decent but I am going to take up your suggestion on trialing lower mounting location to middle and bottom slots for sure.

It seems like as they fit the JT, the instructions are written for the JL so I am unsure if the mounting locations are more of a trial and error for the JT? Anyway, thanks for the tip!

2" - I have settle on the middle hole.

 

[jav_eee]

Super old thread but the Miller Lite in my got curious asks wants to know what your front lift measurement and caster angle was after your adjustment to the middle hole?

 

[chorky]

Super old thread but the Miller Lite in my got curious asks wants to know what your front lift measurement and caster angle was after your adjustment to the middle hole?

This is probably not helpful since I don't know what setting mine is at. AEV does not have 'holes' they use a cam instead. I'd have to look at it to see. But....with the 3" HD springs

I need to have the toe adjusted though, it's not feeling as tight as it did with the 2.5" SD springs and nothing else changed.

 

[GladLad]

Super old thread but the Miller Lite in my got curious asks wants to know what your front lift measurement and caster angle was after your adjustment to the middle hole?

I don't know if @Lunentucker ever measured his caster, but I just got mine checked.

I installed the AEV 2" Mojave lift several weeks back (plus Mojave X front springs, about 2.5" gain), then got 37s, and just over the weekend installed a Synergy adjustable track bar, and Rancho geo brackets. I set uca at the middle hole per recommendations here.

Before geo my caster was 3.7 Driver and 3.9 Passenger. Now I'm at 8.3 and 8.7, way overshot the mid 6 I saw speculated. I've never seen anyone with Rancho brackets give a verified number.

For Rubicons, Rancho recommends top hole for 2", middle for 3". Non-rubicon they recommend top hole for up to 3.5" lifts. Because a Mojave is taller like a rubi, and I'm at about 2.5", and those recommendations are likely more based on the JL, and Lunentucker tried all 3 options before settling on the middle... I went with the middle right off the bat.

AI suggests the higher caster is going to be more straight steering with return to center, reduce death wobble possibilities. Negatively it affects front pinion angle leading to vibrations and wear/damage, heavier steering, more inward wheel flop on tight turns.

@Lunentucker Have you ever measured caster since? What was the difference between top and middle hole?

 

[Lunentucker]

I don't know if @Lunentucker ever measured his caster, but I just got mine checked.

I installed the AEV 2" Mojave lift several weeks back (plus Mojave X front springs, about 2.5" gain), then got 37s, and just over the weekend installed a Synergy adjustable track bar, and Rancho geo brackets. I set uca at the middle hole per recommendations here.

Before geo my caster was 3.7 Driver and 3.9 Passenger. Now I'm at 8.3 and 8.7, way overshot the mid 6 I saw speculated. I've never seen anyone with Rancho brackets give a verified number.

For Rubicons, Rancho recommends top hole for 2", middle for 3". Non-rubicon they recommend top hole for up to 3.5" lifts. Because a Mojave is taller like a rubi, and I'm at about 2.5", and those recommendations are likely more based on the JL, and Lunentucker tried all 3 options before settling on the middle... I went with the middle right off the bat.

AI suggests the higher caster is going to be more straight steering with return to center, reduce death wobble possibilities. Negatively it affects front pinion angle leading to vibrations and wear/damage, heavier steering, more inward wheel flop on tight turns.

@Lunentucker Have you ever measured caster since? What was the difference between top and middle hole?

Never did get mine verified on a machine. I measured it by hand a few times and best guessed it to be around 6-7.
It drove much better with the brackets installed.

 

[GladLad]

Never did get mine verified on a machine. I measured it by hand a few times and best guessed it to be around 6-7.
It drove much better with the brackets installed.

I can feel it smoother over things like train tracks for sure, just debating whether to go up to the top hole if driveline vibrations are a possible concern. I know you've tried all the holes, but not sure what you considered different from the top vs middle hole.

 

[Alpine Warthog]

I just got the knuckle light brackets from Gatekeeper and installed them. I haven't done the correction brackets yet, but now that my knuckle lights arc up and down as they travel left to right, it's pretty obvious my caster is leaning WAYYYYYY back. Skyjacker 2.5 lift and I got closer to 3.5. I need to get off my butt and install the brackets

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