Advice on Torquing to spec?

[Aleph]

Noob here. Just took my stock Mojave through some bumpy roads on a trip to Apalachicola National Forest/Tate’s Hell State Forest and hit a few bumps quite hard. I think I even might have bottomed out the left jounce bump stop at one point at a higher speed than I should have been going, and the rear axle was definitely briefly submerged in a big muddy puddle as well. The truck easily tanked through everything I threw at it but…

I want to get more into servicing my own vehicle and making sure nothing is loose down there, even though I haven’t noticed any odd sounds or anything unusual in my (very inexperienced) post-wheeling inspection.

What spec torque wrench should I get to accomplish this? 10-150 ft-lb? And is there a definitive source/easily accessible service manual with pictures and torque specs? I don’t have a jack stand or trolley jack aside from the provided jack for tire changes - would I be okay doing this without jacking the vehicle up? Or am I just in over my head and should just take it to a shop to be inspected and torqued?

Thanks for the help and input. Really excited to be a part of and contribute more to this community.

Edit: and just as I posted I saw the sticky at the top of this forum with the torque specs! My bad. Would still love some more advice if anyone has anything to add. Thanks.

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[aFatBird]

Noob here. Just took my stock Mojave through some bumpy roads on a trip to Apalachicola National Forest/Tate’s Hell State Forest and hit a few bumps quite hard. I think I even might have bottomed out the left jounce bump stop at one point at a higher speed than I should have been going, and the rear axle was definitely briefly submerged in a big muddy puddle as well. The truck easily tanked through everything I threw at it but…

I want to get more into servicing my own vehicle and making sure nothing is loose down there, even though I haven’t noticed any odd sounds or anything unusual in my (very inexperienced) post-wheeling inspection.

What spec torque wrench should I get to accomplish this? 10-150 ft-lb? And is there a definitive source/easily accessible service manual with pictures and torque specs? I don’t have a jack stand or trolley jack aside from the provided jack for tire changes - would I be okay doing this without jacking the vehicle up? Or am I just in over my head and should just take it to a shop to be inspected and torqued?

Thanks for the help and input. Really excited to be a part of and contribute more to this community.

Edit: and just as I posted I saw the sticky at the top of this forum with the torque specs! My bad. Would still love some more advice if anyone has anything to add. Thanks.

I have a 10-75# 3/8" torque wrench and a 50-200# 1/2" torque wrench. Covers most things that I would be working on. If you plan on working on your own vehicle I would strongly advise getting at least 4 jack stands and a nice floor jack.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

You'll need at least a 250# torque wrench to accommodate the front LCAs at 190#.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Noob here. Just took my stock Mojave through some bumpy roads on a trip to Apalachicola National Forest/Tate’s Hell State Forest and hit a few bumps quite hard. I think I even might have bottomed out the left jounce bump stop at one point at a higher speed than I should have been going, and the rear axle was definitely briefly submerged in a big muddy puddle as well. The truck easily tanked through everything I threw at it but…

I want to get more into servicing my own vehicle and making sure nothing is loose down there, even though I haven’t noticed any odd sounds or anything unusual in my (very inexperienced) post-wheeling inspection.

What spec torque wrench should I get to accomplish this? 10-150 ft-lb? And is there a definitive source/easily accessible service manual with pictures and torque specs? I don’t have a jack stand or trolley jack aside from the provided jack for tire changes - would I be okay doing this without jacking the vehicle up? Or am I just in over my head and should just take it to a shop to be inspected and torqued?

Thanks for the help and input. Really excited to be a part of and contribute more to this community.

Edit: and just as I posted I saw the sticky at the top of this forum with the torque specs! My bad. Would still love some more advice if anyone has anything to add. Thanks.

Thank him for spending the money and time to gather and post all of the necessary torque specs for these.

Note that some are torque, some are torque plus angle.
That means you torque the fastener to the stated torque then rotate it xx degrees more.
So if it's 103 + 145 degrees (factory lower control arm specs) you torque the fastener to 103 ft/lbs then turn it 145 degrees more (a circle is 360 so it takes a tiny bit of math at times)

I agree on the 250 torque wrench.
You won't need the collect I've got so don't think you need to go out and buy a drawer full. A couple would do it, but I'd personally actually start with the 250 as it can still go way down and better to be able to do the easier things that require more torque than the other stuff you can get into later.

(not sure where the 190 comes from because the actual factory specs - shown here - add up to more than 190! 103 ft/lbs plus 145 degrees)

For the lower control arms - this is my go-to torque wrench - ICON, It's proven quite accurate.

 

[Not2Late]

One thing you may want to consider is some suspension bolts are meant to be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension components - at least that is what every lift kit/suspension install instructions I have read seems to tell me.

In addition to a good set of jack stands, I bought four large Rhino Ramps that allow me to put the truck up in the air enough to more comfortablely crawl around under. Note: it is easier to do with 4wd engaged so the front tires don't push/plow the front ramps rather than go up them!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

One thing you may want to consider is some suspension bolts are meant to be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension components - at least that is what every lift kit/suspension install instructions I have read seems to tell me.

In addition to a good set of jack stands, I bought four large Rhino Ramps that allow me to put the truck up in the air enough to more comfortablely crawl around under. Note: it is easier to do with 4wd engaged so the front tires don't push/plow the front ramps rather than go up them!

pretty much all suspension bolts - track bar, upper and lower control arms, sway bars (except the links).
Shocks aren't a concern on these because they aren't staggered or at an angle, they are mostly straight up.
Steering doesn't matter - nothing there that doesn't rotate anyway.
I HATE ramps, but the large, heavy-duty ramps, yeah. Make sure that puppy can't roll or move and the ramps stay put. My son took his Eagle right over the front ends of the ramps one day and that's when I threw all of my ramps away, literally.
It had the tiny Iron Duke in it and couldn't get out of its own way in that heavy car and likely he didn't have it in 4 wheel drive.........

 

[Gatorized]

While you are Emptying Every Pocket -
get the HF Badlands off road floor jack and some Race Ramps Wheel Cribs

 

[WanderingJ]

For the lower control arms - this is my go-to torque wrench - ICON, It's proven quite accurate.

Great idea on the jack stand support for extension. May have to try that. I just snagged this icon to attempt to get my LCA's to torque spec. All I had was the Pittsburg wrench.

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