Deleted member 22728
They are for the JT/JL.
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Deleted member 22728
IIRC, AEV has discontinued the machined-type Borah. When I was spec'ing the JT build, the machined Borah was required, but not available, then later discontinued. That status may have changed, so a call to Qtech or AEV might be in order.
Scratch
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I tried to order this morning and they said 1 in stock so that is a no go.
I’m now looking at the Mopar wheels
Deleted member 22728
Yep, memory is coming back...they had like 3 a couple months ago.
JT “Charlie”
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are those the satan or galaxy blacks? Hard to tell due to the sunHad the Borahs installed yesterday. I'm a happy Jeeper!
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JT “Charlie”
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are those the satin or onyxAEV Borah on stock Mojave w/ 35x12.5R70 Grabber X3's.
syreeves
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What is the road noise like on those Grabbers? I looked at them and the Yok Geolander 003s... I have 20K miles on mine and the noise is getting worse. I'm down to about half of my usable tread too...AEV Borah on stock Mojave w/ 35x12.5R70 Grabber X3's.
zxd9
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zxd9
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I've never had an MT tire before so I don't have a good comparison for you. But, it does make noise. It's not obnoxious and the tone doesn't seem to change as you go faster. It's pretty consistent. My wife has Wildpeak MT on her Wrangler and I think those are a little louder. Doesn't bother me but then again I previously drove a Mustang with loud exhaust and enjoyed listening to that.
I'm at 8k and they look really good yet, which I would expect.
Scratch
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I tired to buy them again last week. STILL NO STOCK ! I ended up buying Mopar wheels.
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Wolf Island Diver
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Borah Beadlocks Impressions and Micro-Review:
I had these sitting around since July waiting on 37 BFG KM3 M/Ts. They’re Onyx/Onyx and in a moment of pure vanity, I gave AEV even more of my money for yellow center caps.
Install:
Soapy water and a dead blow hammer are your friend. I followed the recommendations of the videos online I’ve seen like the this one from Driving Line: .
There’s no balance mark on KM3s, so I just mounted them. I purchased the correct TPMS for the pre-June JT and they all immediately worked. I applied anti-seize to all of the long bolts. I used frog tape to mark the tightening pattern on each ring ahead of time.
Tightening the 24 beadlock ring bolts is similar to truing a bicycle wheel; tightening any given bolt affects the tension on the adjacent bolts as well as the bolts across from it. If you go slow you won’t have any issues and you need to go around twice at each torque setting. I had no gaps with the feeler gauge once it was over 10 ft/lbs. I torqued 10ft/lbs x 2, 16ft/lbs x 2, 24ft/lbs x 2.
The total install time for 5 wheels and tires was about 6 leisurely hours. I recommend wearing coveralls and it helps to have a second person when trying to get the outer bead to stay down on the lip of the rim prior to installing the ring.
There’s a lot of noise about beadlock wheels and large tires regarding maintenance, driving characteristics, balancing, etc. This is my experience with these wheels and tires:
With regard to balancing, my Borah beadlocks with 37s took less weight than the stock 33s and less weight than any other wheel and tire combo I’ve ever run on any Jeep. I had these balanced at the local 4 Wheel Parts and they were blown away at how easily they balanced. They don’t, as a rule, run balancing beads in 37s and smaller tires. They use the stick on weights. At first I thought they hadn’t balanced them because I didn’t see the weights on the inside. That’s how little weight they had to add.
With regard to driving characteristics, these are quieter than the stock Falken M/Ts and are smoother on road. With the AEV lift, the truck is infinitely better both on road and off. I absolutely hate the stock suspension with the diesel. The AEV suspension and larger tires redeems this truck both off road, where I no longer keep smashing the underside constantly, and on the road where I can now keep the truck in its lane and cornering on back country roads is no longer terrifying. The truck is smoother, quieter, handles better and looks better proportioned.
With regard to maintenance, you are supposed to check the torque on the beadlock bolts routinely and you replace the bolts once a year. Since installing the wheels a month ago, I’ve been checking them about once a week and I’m dropping down to once a month.
Far from a maintenance burden, it takes about 10-15 minutes to do all 4 mounted wheels. A lot less time than most people spend on internet forums talking about this stuff in any given week. How long does it take to get a wrench and 13mm socket out of the truck, set it to 24ft/lbs and get it to immediately click 96 times?
I’ve made a cardboard template for the tightening pattern, so I don’t have to think when I do it and I keep my torque wrench in the truck in my tool roll. So far, several were 1/16 of a turn low the first time I checked them and all have been dead on since then. The lugs nuts have been far more out.
That brings me to the other concern that people have, that these are somehow more dangerous than regular wheels. In one sense they are. Regular wheels don’t have a ring that must be retained with bolts to keep the tire from falling off. However, I’ve got 24 bolts, a significant portion of which will have to unthread at least an inch or more of their 2.5” length to allow the ring to flex, destabilize and fail under load. I prevent that with responsible care and maintenance. On the other hand I have only 5 lug nut keeping the whole wheel on and that requires the same responsible care.
I’ve actually had a wheel fall off a truck 2 days after having tires mounted at Costco. That was the last time I didn’t check then wheel torque after having tires installed. I’m not concerned about these rings and I think most of the concerns are typical internet drama. Like anything, if you start with a quality product, how you care for and maintain it is the biggest factor. I also like the fact that I have a sacrificial and replaceable part that protects the wheel and to some extent the tire.
As far as legality, my state has no law regarding these wheels, but since half the wheels on the road are imitation beadlocks that look similar, I’d be surprised if I ever got stopped in a state where they are explicitly disallowed. On the other hand, Virginia has a bumper height requirement and there are county mounties in the central part of the state that love to stop trucks with even mild lifts and write citations. Podunksville needs to fund their new ambulance.
In a cost/benefit analysis for me, the negatives don’t cross some personal threshold where they outweigh the benefits of not having to worry about losing a bead off road. Like the winch on one of my previous Jeeps, they could end up paying for themselves one day when I do something stupid or I’m supremely unlucky. In the meantime, they are great looking wheels, and they appear to be extremely high quality.
They also have correct offset. I foam at the mouth when I see lifted trucks and Jeeps driving down the road with their wheels sticking out like a low rider. I doubt my D44s will last the life of this truck without bent axle tubes running 37s. I do worry about the the front axle u-joints. I think a front Dynatrac axle is in the works sooner than later. I can’t imagine what the axles look like on trucks with the tires cantilevered out like that.
To each his own on the looks, but if on and off road performance is a goal, and you’re not running a rock buggy, the tires ought to be reasonably tucked. I also don’t see any clearance issues on these wheels either on these wide track axles for drag link flips, etc. The main reason many people are running wheels with excessive offset or too low backspacing is because their wheel manufacturers don’t want to make lots of different casts. This is why I like AEV stuff generally and wheels specifically. They’re engineered to work with the vehicle.
They look good covered in mud too!
I had these sitting around since July waiting on 37 BFG KM3 M/Ts. They’re Onyx/Onyx and in a moment of pure vanity, I gave AEV even more of my money for yellow center caps.
Install:
Soapy water and a dead blow hammer are your friend. I followed the recommendations of the videos online I’ve seen like the this one from Driving Line: .
There’s no balance mark on KM3s, so I just mounted them. I purchased the correct TPMS for the pre-June JT and they all immediately worked. I applied anti-seize to all of the long bolts. I used frog tape to mark the tightening pattern on each ring ahead of time.
Tightening the 24 beadlock ring bolts is similar to truing a bicycle wheel; tightening any given bolt affects the tension on the adjacent bolts as well as the bolts across from it. If you go slow you won’t have any issues and you need to go around twice at each torque setting. I had no gaps with the feeler gauge once it was over 10 ft/lbs. I torqued 10ft/lbs x 2, 16ft/lbs x 2, 24ft/lbs x 2.
The total install time for 5 wheels and tires was about 6 leisurely hours. I recommend wearing coveralls and it helps to have a second person when trying to get the outer bead to stay down on the lip of the rim prior to installing the ring.
There’s a lot of noise about beadlock wheels and large tires regarding maintenance, driving characteristics, balancing, etc. This is my experience with these wheels and tires:
With regard to balancing, my Borah beadlocks with 37s took less weight than the stock 33s and less weight than any other wheel and tire combo I’ve ever run on any Jeep. I had these balanced at the local 4 Wheel Parts and they were blown away at how easily they balanced. They don’t, as a rule, run balancing beads in 37s and smaller tires. They use the stick on weights. At first I thought they hadn’t balanced them because I didn’t see the weights on the inside. That’s how little weight they had to add.
With regard to driving characteristics, these are quieter than the stock Falken M/Ts and are smoother on road. With the AEV lift, the truck is infinitely better both on road and off. I absolutely hate the stock suspension with the diesel. The AEV suspension and larger tires redeems this truck both off road, where I no longer keep smashing the underside constantly, and on the road where I can now keep the truck in its lane and cornering on back country roads is no longer terrifying. The truck is smoother, quieter, handles better and looks better proportioned.
With regard to maintenance, you are supposed to check the torque on the beadlock bolts routinely and you replace the bolts once a year. Since installing the wheels a month ago, I’ve been checking them about once a week and I’m dropping down to once a month.
Far from a maintenance burden, it takes about 10-15 minutes to do all 4 mounted wheels. A lot less time than most people spend on internet forums talking about this stuff in any given week. How long does it take to get a wrench and 13mm socket out of the truck, set it to 24ft/lbs and get it to immediately click 96 times?
I’ve made a cardboard template for the tightening pattern, so I don’t have to think when I do it and I keep my torque wrench in the truck in my tool roll. So far, several were 1/16 of a turn low the first time I checked them and all have been dead on since then. The lugs nuts have been far more out.
That brings me to the other concern that people have, that these are somehow more dangerous than regular wheels. In one sense they are. Regular wheels don’t have a ring that must be retained with bolts to keep the tire from falling off. However, I’ve got 24 bolts, a significant portion of which will have to unthread at least an inch or more of their 2.5” length to allow the ring to flex, destabilize and fail under load. I prevent that with responsible care and maintenance. On the other hand I have only 5 lug nut keeping the whole wheel on and that requires the same responsible care.
I’ve actually had a wheel fall off a truck 2 days after having tires mounted at Costco. That was the last time I didn’t check then wheel torque after having tires installed. I’m not concerned about these rings and I think most of the concerns are typical internet drama. Like anything, if you start with a quality product, how you care for and maintain it is the biggest factor. I also like the fact that I have a sacrificial and replaceable part that protects the wheel and to some extent the tire.
As far as legality, my state has no law regarding these wheels, but since half the wheels on the road are imitation beadlocks that look similar, I’d be surprised if I ever got stopped in a state where they are explicitly disallowed. On the other hand, Virginia has a bumper height requirement and there are county mounties in the central part of the state that love to stop trucks with even mild lifts and write citations. Podunksville needs to fund their new ambulance.
In a cost/benefit analysis for me, the negatives don’t cross some personal threshold where they outweigh the benefits of not having to worry about losing a bead off road. Like the winch on one of my previous Jeeps, they could end up paying for themselves one day when I do something stupid or I’m supremely unlucky. In the meantime, they are great looking wheels, and they appear to be extremely high quality.
They also have correct offset. I foam at the mouth when I see lifted trucks and Jeeps driving down the road with their wheels sticking out like a low rider. I doubt my D44s will last the life of this truck without bent axle tubes running 37s. I do worry about the the front axle u-joints. I think a front Dynatrac axle is in the works sooner than later. I can’t imagine what the axles look like on trucks with the tires cantilevered out like that.
To each his own on the looks, but if on and off road performance is a goal, and you’re not running a rock buggy, the tires ought to be reasonably tucked. I also don’t see any clearance issues on these wheels either on these wide track axles for drag link flips, etc. The main reason many people are running wheels with excessive offset or too low backspacing is because their wheel manufacturers don’t want to make lots of different casts. This is why I like AEV stuff generally and wheels specifically. They’re engineered to work with the vehicle.
They look good covered in mud too!
Wolf Island Diver
Well-Known Member
Quick update:
After taking the truck up to the mountains to play in the rocks and mud for its first post-lift shakedown, I finally got around to cleaning it up and inspecting things.
I found a large gash on one of the rear beadlock rings. This would have been the actual rim bead lip otherwise and could have compromised the bead seal. To me this further proves the worth of running these rims with either the beadlock or “protection” ring. I can always replace this sacrificial part as it gets scarred up.
Secondly, none of the beadlock bolts loosened at all. Everything is still dead-on 24 ft/lbs.
After taking the truck up to the mountains to play in the rocks and mud for its first post-lift shakedown, I finally got around to cleaning it up and inspecting things.
I found a large gash on one of the rear beadlock rings. This would have been the actual rim bead lip otherwise and could have compromised the bead seal. To me this further proves the worth of running these rims with either the beadlock or “protection” ring. I can always replace this sacrificial part as it gets scarred up.
Secondly, none of the beadlock bolts loosened at all. Everything is still dead-on 24 ft/lbs.
bastage
Well-Known Member
Just putting this here first.. I am going from my true beadlock rings back to standard mounting. Switching from MT's to AT's as work has changed & I haven't been wheeling in months now. So if anyone has used the used rash guard rings & want to trade for used beadlock rings reach out. Not trying to make anything off them just a straight trade..
Overall after a year and a half on these wheels/tires I give the wheels an A+.. The positive offset helps keep me narrow & I have gotten through obstacles without touching that JL's & other JT's struggle with since I have an extra 3 or so inch's of clearance vs the normal 0 or negative offset wheels.
The Milestar tires however I dont like. Off in the rocks they have been great, but on road where I spend most of my time now they are not a pleasant ride. I feel every lug hitting the ground at slow speeds which is the main reason I am changing things up after a few thousand miles.
Overall after a year and a half on these wheels/tires I give the wheels an A+.. The positive offset helps keep me narrow & I have gotten through obstacles without touching that JL's & other JT's struggle with since I have an extra 3 or so inch's of clearance vs the normal 0 or negative offset wheels.
The Milestar tires however I dont like. Off in the rocks they have been great, but on road where I spend most of my time now they are not a pleasant ride. I feel every lug hitting the ground at slow speeds which is the main reason I am changing things up after a few thousand miles.
Trauma PA
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Are these the galaxy + machined wheels?AEV Borah on stock Mojave w/ 35x12.5R70 Grabber X3's.
zxd9
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Color is Onyx
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