Nate
Well-Known Member
much appreciated and really looking forward to your feedback on the quality of it.
you opted for the stubby, correct?
Yes.
Sponsored
much appreciated and really looking forward to your feedback on the quality of it.
you opted for the stubby, correct?
I like the bumper.. but seriously, it's as if they have zero intention of selling them. That price is full on f^cktarded.That price is insane.
Looks great!!Finally!
A few notes. The Warn 12S does fit, and even with all the lights it still gets plenty of air. The 2.5DS lift is what these trucks should come with from the factory. Rides and drives like a dream.
Looks great and appears to not stick so far out from the front of the truck like some bumpers do.Finally!
A few notes. The Warn 12S does fit, and even with all the lights it still gets plenty of air. The 2.5DS lift is what these trucks should come with from the factory. Rides and drives like a dream.
Looks great and appears to not stick so far out from the front of the truck like some bumpers do.
Do I see the trail cam? Assume youāre waiting on the trail can relocation?
Post some pics when mounted!Guess I'm going to have to eat crow regarding my prior posts about the AEV bumper. Sort of.
Wanting an AEV Brute for years meant I HAD to have an AEV bumper on my Gladiator. That bumper was by far the most functional and best looking JK bumper IMHO.
Ordered my Gladiator Rubicon in April 2019 with the base plastic bumper knowing I'd be replacing it with the new AEV bumper. And now I've waited almost 2 years for AEV to release the JL/JT bumper - to a lottery situation no less.
And I thought AEV's pricing on the new bumper would be similar to the previous bumper ($1,300 bumper + $300 skid plate + $200 winch plate). No doubt, $1,800 is a lot of $ for a bumper.
And the the new "RX" bumper, finally being released more broadly now, is really awesome. But the RX is a just stubby - the full width sections are not yet available. And it is at least $2,484 optioned with skid plate and winch mount BEFORE the front camera relocation kit (not currently available) and BEFORE shipping is added to that price. Which means the full width "EX" bumper sections (whenever they decide to release those parts - if at all) HAS to be a higher price and I'm guessing at least another $300-$500+ for those parts.
So this is going to be a $3,000 bumper??? WTF.
See above post #156 where I decided to pass on an AEV bumper. That was 3 posts and 7 days ago.
This weekend I stumbled across a used JK Moab / Call of Duty bumper (basically AEV's JK bumper) on OfferUp. With skid plate. Plus winch mounting. Plus fog lights, fairlead, and hardware.
And since the JK and JL/JT bumpers can be swapped back and forth...I snapped it up for $350!
I'm sure some amount of massaging will be required to get it all to work and not sure if I'll end up with my steel JT or the AEV skid plate. And I've been looking around online to locate a similar 3" round tube grille guard to match the Brute's bumper...and for $65 - $200 I've found multiple options. After pressure washing it clean it's really in good shape - the paint is faded but no dents or anything beyond surface scratches. Just needs a light sanding and a new coat of satin black. And I'll probably spring for new grade 8 hardware too.
So, for less than $500 installed plus my time, I think I now have my AEV bumper!
That looks great! I loved the AEV bumper on my old JK, but have the same issues with the JL/JT bumper as you. Interested to see how the winch plate and such fits.Havenāt repainted the AEV bumper yet or swapped lights (direct swap), etc. as I wanted to make sure the bumper fits and no major problems.
Answer = yes!
Comparison photos (plastic Rubi bumper first)...
Front view:
Installed my roller fairlead, but may swap to the flat one that came with the bumper for use with synthetic wire.
Gap between bumper and grille:
Side view and fender alignment:
Skid plate spacing (with stock Rubi skid):
Top view:
Overall findings from initial test fitment:
There are 4 parts I didnāt get (gray color parts):
- Lower edge of bumper is higher than OEM bumper by 1-2ā, so better approach angle
- Fog lights are a direct swap
- Aligns very well with Rubicon high fenders
- Wraps around sides more than stock
- Skid plate will work, but will require mods; trim ~1/4ā off length of back edge to clear steering; drill bolt holes to re-use stock Rubi skid plate mounts
One is a close out bracket and the other is a lower tow point (which didnāt come on the Moab pkg). To get those parts plus new hardware from AEV requires you to buy a $600 ācon-boxā.
But they will sell all the bumper hardware (grade 10.9) for $60.
Iāll use AEVās hardware, Warn tow points ($100), and either delete or fab the close out brackets myself.
Will update after I test fit the winch plate, paint, and swap the fog lights over....but overall happy with it.
Be careful that you don't crush the frame at all since you don't have a sleeve or spacer on there. That's part of why AEV only attaches to the inner part of the frame rail, which should be plenty. It might be a bit safer if you can reach a nut and washer up through that access hole to just go to the inside of the rail like the original does.Quick update on my used AEV JK Moab / Call of Duty bumper. (AEVās Tubeless JK front bumper). Not fully installed yet as I sanded and painted the main bumper over the weekend and letting the paint cure for a few days.
There is already a 1/2ā hole through the lower extension on the frame rails to bolt down the winch plate. No drilling!
Next pic Iām just mocking up the bolt lengths to pass through BOTH sides of the frame horns extension (AEV only bolted to the inner sides of the frame rails...have to think passing through both sides of frame rail is a stronger mounting method. Iāll be buying Grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers to complete the install:
I second this. You won't be able to torque the hardware down nearly as much without a sleeve inside the frame rail, and that may be critical for their designed installation procedure. I'd do what @jwilson2899 recommends of using a shorter bolt and only attach to the inner frame rail wall.Be careful that you don't crush the frame at all since you don't have a sleeve or spacer on there. That's part of why AEV only attaches to the inner part of the frame rail, which should be plenty. It might be a bit safer if you can reach a nut and washer up through that access hole to just go to the inside of the rail like the original does.