AirLift rear bag system - info you need to know

[ShadowsPapa]

I remembered that I had an air lift compressor from a 1981 Concord wagon stashed in my shelves of car parts. It was made to keep the car at a specific level using air shocks. Put weight in the back and it moved a lever triggering the compressor mounted under the hood until it got the car level again. Towing - same thing, take the trailer off, air was released.
It's in rough shape - the wiring and hose is old and that lever piece is really rusty (just the sort of stuff I restore for other people LOL) but if the compressor works, I wonder about mounting it somewhere, even in a board or plate and powering it from either an aux switch, or if making it portable, from the 12v at the trailer connector.

It's similar to this but made to mount under the hood of a Concord or Eagle wagon and was a factory option -

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[Blade1668]

Bill I can snap a few more pics of the airbags, lines ect and post them if you want. I checked the air pressure on them, current loaded with stuff and utility trailer.... yeah the airbags are holding some weight on mine right now. Up about 5-6 psi from the pressure I set them at.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Bill I can snap a few more pics of the airbags, lines ect and post them if you want. I checked the air pressure on them, current loaded with stuff and utility trailer.... yeah the airbags are holding some weight on mine right now. Up about 5-6 psi from the pressure I set them at.

Looks like you didn't remove the pieces from the springs - some do, some don't, from what I've seen. (the dampening or whatever it's for - the blue glued to some of the coils)

I'm leaning toward running 2 lines, no T, unless I had a T with a small ball valve, fill to the PSI I wanted and then close the valve so on curves, air couldn't migrate from one bag to another.
If I mounted a small compressor under the hood (although I don't know where, these things don't have a lot of room) it would be handy to have the air bag lines terminate under the hood.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I put the valve stem behind the fuel door as well. Used a fender washer to stiffen up the rubber boot a bit.

I'm looking at dual lines, separate, no T.
I may put a ball valve between the two lines so I could allow the air to migrate in rough terrain, but I don't want air to move from one to the other on curves, force them to work like individual springs.

 

[Blade1668]

Looks like you didn't remove the pieces from the springs - some do, some don't, from what I've seen. (the dampening or whatever it's for - the blue glued to some of the coils)

I'm leaning toward running 2 lines, no T, unless I had a T with a small ball valve, fill to the PSI I wanted and then close the valve so on curves, air couldn't migrate from one bag to another.
If I mounted a small compressor under the hood (although I don't know where, these things don't have a lot of room) it would be handy to have the air bag lines terminate under the hood.

I read and watched a few videos on it and seen them left alone so I did too. When installing the bags Don't let them be inflate first, zip ties are very helpful. Do connect air lines before installing, there is room and lines feed in from top. As you know watch out for kinking of air lines. I was going to run lines up to fuel cap area but after fighting the left side I lost train of thoughts and went to bumper. I thought about "Making" the Schrader valves into license plate mounting points in bumper. But was just wanting to be done by then, if I was doing it now I would. Easy to remember left from right side airbag.
I darn near "oiled" them with Pam or WD-40 to slip them in, the left side was the biggest PTA of them do to exhaust system and shields. I jacked up side for drooping of suspension. Wear a pair of glover for hand protection from cuts. Don't let sensitive ears around for the possibility of profanity. ?
I highly recommend not running the bags on one line too. Less splices or points of failure... of both, plus can slightly adjust for one side over other.
Bill: a thought as small as that unit is you could put it under the bed easily. If not under corner of bed with a connection for hookup easy to reach. Not a fast air up for a tire maybe but how fast are you going on a flat tire. I figure your probably going to run some 12v power to back of your truck too?? If not a Anderson connector? Handy for a portable winch in receiver hitch or winch on car hauler.

 

[PJZ]

Had these on an Xterra and then my JK. Initially were great especially full of gear and with a small trailer in tow.

On the JK I found the bags became very rigid and it impacted ride quality and articulation. You could see them binding in the spring. The bag deformed around the spring shape with bulges intruding between the spring spaces. Probably the heat took its toll. Just before selling the JK I cut them out and did a trip. Ride was significantly better. It had degraded slowly and wasn't noticeable until they were removed.

Would still consider them but would keep an eye on the flexibility and condition of the bag over time particularly if you live in a hot environment.

 

[Muddzy]

I'm putting mine in now. Hopefully all of the tips will make it easier. I just towed a boat about 9hrs without the airbags and will be leaving for Colorado in a couple of days towing a 6x12 cargo trailer fully loaded. It should be a fair comparison since they will be similar in weight. Hopefully I won't get flashed at night anymore.

 

[Muddzy]

Installed. Went in easy on a 90 degree day using hot dog and zip tie method. Hardest (most time consuming) part was figuring out where to put schrader valves since I did 2 with no Tee connection and I wanted to be able to reach both with a bike pump just in case I didn't have a working compressor. We shall see if they noticeably improve towing.

One question: Did you guys have the bottom of the bags touch the lowest part of the spring assembly or are they floating with a little space under the bag (not touching anything on the bottom)?

 

[Gren71]

Installed. Went in easy on a 90 degree day using hot dog and zip tie method. Hardest (most time consuming) part was figuring out where to put schrader valves since I did 2 with no Tee connection and I wanted to be able to reach both with a bike pump just in case I didn't have a working compressor. We shall see if they noticeably improve towing.

One question: Did you guys have the bottom of the bags touch the lowest part of the spring assembly or are they floating with a little space under the bag (not touching anything on the bottom)?

If I remember right they were sorta floating at first. Theyve since seated with use.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Installed. Went in easy on a 90 degree day using hot dog and zip tie method. Hardest (most time consuming) part was figuring out where to put schrader valves since I did 2 with no Tee connection and I wanted to be able to reach both with a bike pump just in case I didn't have a working compressor. We shall see if they noticeably improve towing.

One question: Did you guys have the bottom of the bags touch the lowest part of the spring assembly or are they floating with a little space under the bag (not touching anything on the bottom)?

Easy peasy without folding the bags, no zip ties to hold the bag. The hardest part was extending the axle down far enough to put the Daystar 3/4" spacers under the springs. Once I got those in, I put the bags in without folding them.
How? I put the hose on the bag, put the clamp on, I hand squeezed the bag to get most of the air out, and then ran the hose in through the spring coils and back out to me.
It's amazing how flat these go if you suck the air out while manipulating the flattened bag into the widest coils.
I didn't step on them, I didn't tie them, I didn't fold them. I sucked the air out and held the air out by mouth while working each bag in. Then when I let loose I put the top pieces in over the hoses and the bags eventually grew back to size. I didn't have to cut any straps or use any tools to hook up the hoses as they were on and clamped before the bags went in.

It was 97 in my garage. Shop with A/C was too full to get the truck into so I had to stop before done - started feeling sick.........
On the other hand, These are easy to reach to fill......

I measured center of hub to ridge on fender trim. It was 24.5" after the spring spacers.
I put 6 psi in each bag and re-measured. Exactly 24.5" so zero difference with 6 psi. That's fine with me.

Now to deal with the front after I figure out where to put these air lines......

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hardest (most time consuming) part was figuring out where to put schrader valves since I did 2 with no Tee connection and I wanted to be able to reach both with a bike pump just in case I didn't have a working compressor.

I haven't mounted those yet - where did you end up putting yours. I agree, the time-consuming part is the decision part of the valves, and routing the hose. It took longer for me because I also put spring spacers in for a tiny bit of lift in the rear.

 

[Gren71]

I haven't mounted those yet - where did you end up putting yours. I agree, the time-consuming part is the decision part of the valves, and routing the hose. It took longer for me because I also put spring spacers in for a tiny bit of lift in the rear.

If you’re set on having them separate and/or ran towards the back maybe next to the license plate? Accessible and sort out of the way of every day interaction.

Or tour could drill a small hole on either side of the hitch and mount them there. Though the steel may be a pita to drill into.

 

[Rusty PW]

If you’re set on having them separate and/or ran towards the back maybe next to the license plate? Accessible and sort out of the way of every day interaction.

Or tour could drill a small hole on either side of the hitch and mount them there. Though the steel may be a pita to drill into.

I have friends that put the schrader valves into the 2 hole on the bottom of the license plate. I did the same thing on my Power Wagon too.

Question. With no load on the rear. How much will the air bags lift the rear? And what is the max air pressure? On the PW, I had Carli long travel air bags. Min was 5psi and max was 100 psi. At 100 psi, they would lift the rear 6".

 

[Blade1668]

I haven't mounted those yet - where did you end up putting yours. I agree, the time-consuming part is the decision part of the valves, and routing the hose. It took longer for me because I also put spring spacers in for a tiny bit of lift in the rear.

Nicely done Bill the springs on yours must be a lot more flex than on mine, being a Max-Tow. I know I "unloaded" the weight off the axle to install them and it was a P.T.A. still.

Had these on an Xterra and then my JK. Initially were great especially full of gear and with a small trailer in tow.

On the JK I found the bags became very rigid and it impacted ride quality and articulation. You could see them binding in the spring. The bag deformed around the spring shape with bulges intruding between the spring spaces. Probably the heat took its toll. Just before selling the JK I cut them out and did a trip. Ride was significantly better. It had degraded slowly and wasn't noticeable until they were removed.

Would still consider them but would keep an eye on the flexibility and condition of the bag over time particularly if you live in a hot environment.

I will have to remember that, and need to look into some different springs possibly. the bags in mine currently are acting like a typical late night Walmart customer in spandex. ?

Trying to spill over. ?

I put the valves next to license plate.

 

[Muddzy]

I haven't mounted those yet - where did you end up putting yours. I agree, the time-consuming part is the decision part of the valves, and routing the hose. It took longer for me because I also put spring spacers in for a tiny bit of lift in the rear.

My bumper is a little different than yours but I put each of them beside the license plate lights. There was easy access behind and all I had to do was drill though the plastic. No steel or aluminum. Bad pics but you get the idea. I thought about putting them next to the license plate (facing out) like the concept above. But my spare was in the way and there's a thin sheet metal plate. It wouldn't have been hard but this was quicker and they're off to the side so I don't need to worry as much about stepping on them. I will probably still step on them ?.

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