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AirLift rear bag system - info you need to know

WK2JT

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Darren
Great video and info. Being a lot of people wouldn't believe it. Now using both in combination might be good for someone traveling long trip on road.

Something that many don't know or do. Lubricant on coupler and ball, the ball should be smooth not covered in rust. I have been told by some RV'ers they put in some wax paper on ball as to lubricate. I haven't tried it. It's more critical when using wt. dist. and or sway control hitch. Now on light duty trailer's not as big of a deal. Last thing anyone wants to happen is trailer towing problems.
Have to say I was quite surprised watching that video. I did not expect that at all. Glad you enjoyed it... all about helping others and making the best possible experiences.
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I got a Anderson WT Dist. /Sway control hitch for my 16ft Scamp for towing with my LJ. It makes it night and day difference. It's not that big or heavy but wind and the under size tires, high center of gravity (roof AC) and single axle can be a PTA it's under 4k and for some reason clowns with large SUV's buzzing by barely in their lane would blow me all over the place worse than OTR trucks. I would have to load up the front axle on my LJ to cut it down. I've had some that have almost hit my towing mirror passing. SUV drivers that is.
 

eaglerugby04

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Darren
Great video and info. Being a lot of people wouldn't believe it. Now using both in combination might be good for someone traveling long trip on road.

Something that many don't know or do. Lubricant on coupler and ball, the ball should be smooth not covered in rust. I have been told by some RV'ers they put in some wax paper on ball as to lubricate. I haven't tried it. It's more critical when using wt. dist. and or sway control hitch. Now on light duty trailer's not as big of a deal. Last thing anyone wants to happen is trailer towing problems.
Thats interesting and good to know. Most trailer balls I tend to see are rusty.

Also need to remember to lube my balls before ever trip.
 

eaglerugby04

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Since the conversation is involving both air bags and WDH, this is an interesting video I stumbled across:

I have seen this one before. Its a great video.
 

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I got a Anderson WT Dist. /Sway control hitch for my 16ft Scamp for towing with my LJ. It makes it night and day difference. It's not that big or heavy but wind and the under size tires, high center of gravity (roof AC) and single axle can be a PTA it's under 4k and for some reason clowns with large SUV's buzzing by barely in their lane would blow me all over the place worse than OTR trucks. I would have to load up the front axle on my LJ to cut it down. I've had some that have almost hit my towing mirror passing. SUV drivers that is.
Do you use the WDH when towing the Scamp with your JT? I have a Scamp 16 Std. and never used one. I've towed it with no problems behind my JT now and before with a Tacoma. The LJ being shorter wheel base I can understand.
 

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There are some specific trailer coupler lubes, but I've found great results with generic anti-sieze, the copper kind. The ball stays in good shape much longer.

That video has two minutes of info in 14 minutes. The obvious answer sort of starts at 9:50, but you can get the full summary at 10:55. As expected, the WD system spreads the load to all axles, and does far more. Adding bags to a heavy trailer with WD may improve ride quality further, but isn't really necessary.
 

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I have not yet but I will just due to Scamp sway control for the trailer. Being longer wheel base and heavy compared to LJ. It will keep Scamp stable towing. TW wise it's only 350 -400 lbs. so it's a none issue for the JT. About every time I took it anywhere I might as well thrown everything down on floor due to the sway, the OEM tire size (load range) is not up to the task of trailer control in my opinion.
 

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The Dad of my best bud growing up was a long haul trucker. He used a sheet of tinfoil for lubricant on the ball hitch of his Chevy stepside when towing the family travel trailer. Actually, folded up a couple of layers thick.

Darren
Great video and info. Being a lot of people wouldn't believe it. Now using both in combination might be good for someone traveling long trip on road.

Something that many don't know or do. Lubricant on coupler and ball, the ball should be smooth not covered in rust. I have been told by some RV'ers they put in some wax paper on ball as to lubricate. I haven't tried it. It's more critical when using wt. dist. and or sway control hitch. Now on light duty trailer's not as big of a deal. Last thing anyone wants to happen is trailer towing problems.
 

Gren71

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My wife and I are getting a 5,000lbs trailer soon so I’m sorta playing. Catch up here... I already have a wdh standing by and ready to be installed at the shop when the trailer arrives. That video makes it seem like the bags aren’t necessary in the presence of a correctly installed wdh. Is it worth doing them both?

also, with the bags. Is it I’ll advised to drive with the, still aired up? As in I arrive at a park and had them aired to 50psi for the trip. Can I drive around that way or do I need to air them back down to 5psi for regular driving?
 

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eaglerugby04

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My wife and I are getting a 5,000lbs trailer soon so I’m sorta playing. Catch up here... I already have a wdh standing by and ready to be installed at the shop when the trailer arrives. That video makes it seem like the bags aren’t necessary in the presence of a correctly installed wdh. Is it worth doing them both?

also, with the bags. Is it I’ll advised to drive with the, still aired up? As in I arrive at a park and had them aired to 50psi for the trip. Can I drive around that way or do I need to air them back down to 5psi for regular driving?
More than likely they are not needed. I am seeing this on my 6k trailer after it has been what I think is properly adjusted.

That being said I have been on youtube and there are a lot of people that tend to max out their mid sized trucks and do have the air bags for a better ride, so that portion may be true. I plan to take mine out a few times to see for sure if the ride feels like it needs it.

You would need to air down when not hauling though.
 

Gren71

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Very unlikely. The overly long video earlier in this thread basically says that, skip to around 10 minutes to get the useful info from it.
More than likely they are not needed. I am seeing this on my 6k trailer after it has been what I think is properly adjusted.

That being said I have been on youtube and there are a lot of people that tend to max out their mid sized trucks and do have the air bags for a better ride, so that portion may be true. I plan to take mine out a few times to see for sure if the ride feels like it needs it.

You would need to air down when not hauling though.
Thank you both very much.
 

MotoBrad

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I just installed my Air Lift bags... but I just can't decide where to mount the valves... I hate drilling into my truck!

Where have you guys located your air valves?
 

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I just installed my Air Lift bags... but I just can't decide where to mount the valves... I hate drilling into my truck!

Where have you guys located your air valves?
Stuck mine inside the fuel door for the same reason as you. Could bare to go drilling into the truck so I did it there. Convenient and inconspicuous. If I ever move it, it’s just a tiny hole in some black plastic that I can live with.
 

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Been running AirLift 1000 bags on my current and last Ram 1500. Without a doubt they are the best money I've ever spent on a product to assist with towing. I pull an 8300# camper and the bags really help with sag and bounce. When not towing I leave them at 5 PSI, and run them at 30 PSI under load. I can't tell they're there when unloaded.

Just a tip, but don't "T" the lines together. Run both bags independent. You don't want air being pushed from one bag to the other. That kind of defeats the purpose.
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