AirLift rear bag system - info you need to know

[tampahoosier]

Yes this is the route I took and it seems to be working.
When I said there was still a little wiggle room I meant only room to wiggle. The gap between the top of my spacers and the spring seat was only about 1/4-1/2 inch. When I but my battery box and cooler in the truck bed and inflated to 5 lbs that gap was gone. The spacer with the Gladiator kit is at least two inches tall so running it without any kind of spacer at all seems like a bad idea to me.

Thanks for the info (sorry for the delay). I'm going to go ahead and pull the trigger on the Ram HD kit with the 5x12 bags. Have you had a chance to test out the Ram HD bags with the Gladiator kit spacers and determine whether it's a good ride or not? I'm trying to decide if I really need to go out and purchase the Gladiator spacers too or if just the ram kit by itself is enough to suffice.

Also, just to confirm... Are you seeing any difference in any drive characteristics during standard driving with no load and the bags deflated?

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[TennesseePA]

If you have a lift kit then you need the longer bags and the gladiator spacers to fill the extra spring length.

 

[Bacstar]

I decided to go the wdh route instead of the bags. My friend mentioned that when not in use you had to keep 5#'s in the bags at all times. Is this hard to maintain if you do not have on-board air?

 

[SwampNut]

For a trailer, you definitely should use weight distribution. Air bags are for payload. I love the way the WD system keeps the trailer and truck level without bounce or sway.

 

[gsxr310]

Is this hard to maintain if you do not have on-board air?

Easy solution is to carry a portable compressor. Viair makes reliable ones for less than $100. But for maintaining 5psi, any cheapo compressor / bike pump is all you need.

 

[Bacstar]

For a trailer, you definitely should use weight distribution. Air bags are for payload. I love the way the WD system keeps the trailer and truck level without bounce or sway.

Definitely noticed the difference once installed, I did a few miles before dropping it back off in storage. It is a few extra steps to get things hooked up. I have a sloped driveway too, so I imagine I'm going to have to pull it to a level spot and hook the bars up and vice versa when i need to park it on sloped driveway. It's a condo complex, so I won't be able to get the trailer and tow vehicle level.

 

[tampahoosier]

Easy solution is to carry a portable compressor. Viair makes reliable ones for less than $100. But for maintaining 5psi, any cheapo compressor / bike pump is all you need.

They don't need to be constantly hooked up to a compressor do they? I was under the impression that if you're going the cheap route like me for now then you just hook a compressor up to the air line when you need them inflated. Otherwise you just toss 5lbs of air in and they are good to go without need to continually check or maintain.

 

[eaglerugby04]

Any long term reviews. Need to order a set of these or something similar. Even with the WDH I still have a little more squat than I would like on my stock rubicon.

 

[remlemasi]

Just got a set delivered yesterday. Also ordered the daystar 3/4” spacers front and rear just for a tad more clearance on the trails. Should help with the tent, canopy, and other gear over the rear axle and future winch on the front axle.

 

[SwampNut]

Definitely noticed the difference once installed, I did a few miles before dropping it back off in storage. It is a few extra steps to get things hooked up. I have a sloped driveway too, so I imagine I'm going to have to pull it to a level spot and hook the bars up and vice versa when i need to park it on sloped driveway. It's a condo complex, so I won't be able to get the trailer and tow vehicle level.

It only needs to be level to adjust the position. You need to go through the adjustment process carefully and get it perfectly flat, but only the one time unless you change load significantly. After that you can hook up in most any position as long as it's not too bound up. You'll get faster at it, when you get used to it the only penalty is around two minutes.

 

[remlemasi]

It only needs to be level to adjust the position. You need to go through the adjustment process carefully and get it perfectly flat, but only the one time unless you change load significantly. After that you can hook up in most any position as long as it's not too bound up. You'll get faster at it, when you get used to it the only penalty is around two minutes.

If I have a bunch of heavy things (canopy, RTT) permanently mounted, how would you suggest I do the initial setup? I’m thinking jack the rear from the bumper so that the frame is level, then pump it up?

 

[SwampNut]

It's in the documentation for the hitch. I read through it carefully and followed the steps one at a time. Basically you first need to get the ball height level to the trailer's height. You do this by measuring the height of the trailer frame and get the ball positioned so the trailer will be flat. Then you adjust the WD bars to keep the vehicle flat. Measure the height of the FRONT bumper with no load, add your load and WD bars, measure again. Adjust the chains to add more or less weight distribution.

Do them in that order or you'll be chasing your tail.

 

[DKK]

Newbie here. Please don’t think I am trying to hi jack this thread but this is the closest topic I found for my question.
I saw a video of a guy that used his air bags to level his rig when he was setting up his rtt. He had his switches mounted in the bEd near his tailgate.
Has anyone on here done that with a gladiator. He was running a 3/4 ton and I imagine it had leafs instead of coils. I had helper springs on a Ram 1500 with rear leafs and I can understand how that worked but I’m curious about inside the coils. I realize each bag would be inflated separately.
TIA. This forum amazes me. What a great group of people!
stay safe everyone

 

[WK2JT]

Since the conversation is involving both air bags and WDH, this is an interesting video I stumbled across:

 

[Blade1668]

Darren
Great video and info. Being a lot of people wouldn't believe it. Now using both in combination might be good for someone traveling long trip on road.

Something that many don't know or do. Lubricant on coupler and ball, the ball should be smooth not covered in rust. I have been told by some RV'ers they put in some wax paper on ball as to lubricate. I haven't tried it. It's more critical when using wt. dist. and or sway control hitch. Now on light duty trailer's not as big of a deal. Last thing anyone wants to happen is trailer towing problems.

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