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Anyone have pics of your gladiator where the back is higher than the front?

ShadowsPapa

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And yet, there are those who will. I would prefer self limit of 7K with max tow Sport S. Safety margin and all.
1500 pound trailer - I call it 1600 with spare tire and aluminum tool box with a jack and straps in it.
So 1600 pounds plus 3200 pound car = 4800 pounds. A bit under the Overland tow limit.
There's no way I'd tow over 7,000 pounds with these trucks, no matter the specs, no matter the "trim level".
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1500 pound trailer - I call it 1600 with spare tire and aluminum tool box with a jack and straps in it.
So 1600 pounds plus 3200 pound car = 4800 pounds. A bit under the Overland tow limit.
There's no way I'd tow over 7,000 pounds with these trucks, no matter the specs, no matter the "trim level".
Yep, I'd say 6,000 safely...6,500 TOPS regardless of trim level...It's still a 1/4-ton V6 powered truck, no matter which way you slice it, or how cool it may be. It is what it is. Cool points don't factor into real-world performance and abilities.
 

Factoid

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Mopar lift and 37s.

ED2D6DD1-4A80-424B-BD11-8BA691FD7B30.jpeg
 

12BNNT

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800 pounds of tongue weight? That's an 8,000 pound trailer!
Seems to me that's more than any JT can legally tow.
Exactly. JTR is rated for 7000# (700 tongue i think). My truck has 1.5” front and 3/4” rear lift (15K winch and high clearance bumper dropped front back down 3/4”) So I netted 3/4” front and back to keep factory rake for towing. 37x12.5x17’s (With-12 offset they stick out a bit)
Jeep Gladiator Anyone have pics of your gladiator where the back is higher than the front? FC9E89C4-9130-45DE-9931-A3CC058A324B

Current camper is a 7x16 cargo camper conversion that I converted myself. (complete with black,grey,fresh water tanks, toilet, sink, fridge, bed on trolleys and winch to raise it up and be able to pull the bike in to take along on longer trips) trailer scales at 4700# (600 tongue) with everything inside except food and clothes. It has drop axles on it so it sits pretty low. No WDH on it using an 8” drop hitch, the rear looks like it squats down a little because of the higher clearance front flares but on flat ground, the frame is parallel to the ground and the trailer is level. Rides like a dream.
We’ve been looking at getting a regular camper (bigger to be able to take All the dogs with us) and I made a point to tell the wife that any she picks out to look at need to be at or under 6000#. That way loading our gear doesn’t put it over 7K and keeps the tongue weigh from having to be so high. Of course a bigger camper means I’ll need a WDH with sway control.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Changing suspension at all, lift being mopar or otherwise, WILL change your towing, often by a significant decrease.

Discussed at nauseum here

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ze-gear-ratio-affect-on-payload-towing.24058/

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-is-underrating-the-max-tow-capability.25103/
There's some good youtube stuff out there too where a 4x4 guy, talking about full size trucks with lifts, discussing how such changes like lifts decrease towing capability - impossible to specifically enumerate - but it decreases. The one I'm thinking of is a business that sells parts to lift and so on - they approach it quite honestly.
It makes sense - these are engineered, and TESTED, at specific levels, and certified "as manufactured". Any change like a lift has impact on towing........
 

12BNNT

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There's some good youtube stuff out there too where a 4x4 guy, talking about full size trucks with lifts, discussing how such changes like lifts decrease towing capability - impossible to specifically enumerate - but it decreases. The one I'm thinking of is a business that sells parts to lift and so on - they approach it quite honestly.
It makes sense - these are engineered, and TESTED, at specific levels, and certified "as manufactured". Any change like a lift has impact on towing........
True! If one were to think about it, the 2dr, 4dr and JT all having the same drivetrains have different “safe towing ratings” due to differences in vehicle length. The longer JT has the higher tow rating due to inherent stability. Putting a lift on the vehicle lowers that stability lowering the amount one can tow safely. Technically the 2dr can “pull” as much weight as the JT but the amount of tongue weight required for the heavier trailer puts it nose up and makes it very unsafe.
I realize the JT has different rear suspension and springs than the JL but the basics of taller or shorter vehicles being less stable holds the same.
 

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1500 pound trailer - I call it 1600 with spare tire and aluminum tool box with a jack and straps in it.
So 1600 pounds plus 3200 pound car = 4800 pounds. A bit under the Overland tow limit.
There's no way I'd tow over 7,000 pounds with these trucks, no matter the specs, no matter the "trim level".
I'm in agreement with you on this, I'm sure I don't plan on towing over 5k with mine. I'd rather be towing at 3/4 max rating or less with any vehicle that leaves a good margins for safety and vehicle changes AKA tires size ect. I don't want to ever experience not having enough "brakes" to stop vehicle and trailer... Been there, a set of crappy "new" tires that a "Yugo" could get to spin :facepalm: I bet not many here remember that vehicle..:giggle: and tell me that the government vehicle standards mean anything.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I'm in agreement with you on this, I'm sure I don't plan on towing over 5k with mine. I'd rather be towing at 3/4 max rating or less with any vehicle that leaves a good margins for safety and vehicle changes AKA tires size ect. I don't want to ever experience not having enough "brakes" to stop vehicle and trailer... Been there, a set of crappy "new" tires that a "Yugo" could get to spin :facepalm: I bet not many here remember that vehicle..:giggle: and tell me that the government vehicle standards mean anything.
Center of gravity, wheelbase (length and width, thus the wider track of the max tow and Rubicon), all sorts of things factor in.

Same here - I want to be under the ratings so there's a margin. Never know - wet roads, sand, other dopes on the road, a miscalculation, whatever.

And yeah - the Dragnet movie - Yugo.
 

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Just curious how this looks and did it mess up performance at all? I am thinking of going for more of a hot rod look.
Every single factory gladiator is raked nose down for bed and towing capacity . This is normal and everywhere
 

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Here is mine. The rear is 41" and the front is 40.25", I left some rake for towing purposes. The bumper and winch installed dropped it about a 1/2 inch from before I had them installed. Both sets of pictures are with a 2.5" ReadyLift SST lift kit, 2.5" in the front and 2" in the rear. I prefer mine not sitting level as well, did not mess performance up at all.

Before bumper and winch
Jeep Gladiator Anyone have pics of your gladiator where the back is higher than the front? IMG_6819 (1)

Jeep Gladiator Anyone have pics of your gladiator where the back is higher than the front? IMG_6819 (1)


After bumper and winch
Jeep Gladiator Anyone have pics of your gladiator where the back is higher than the front? IMG_6819 (1)
Those stock steelie rims look awesome. I do have a set of Rubicons but for the winter I run the metal like yours.
 

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Those stock steelie rims look awesome. I do have a set of Rubicons but for the winter I run the metal like yours.
Yes sir I'm a fan of them. Just stuck a set of 37's on them and I'm in love with them all over again

Jeep Gladiator Anyone have pics of your gladiator where the back is higher than the front? PXL_20210219_121913843
 

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I also have a set of the steelies with 33's, love those rims

Bruce
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