Aux Battery Delete Attempt Fail

[Geoarch]

Assuming everything was reconnected properly my first guess would be a depleted main battery. Get a charger on it for a few hours and see if it fires up.

Watching this and a couple other Forums it seems rather consistent that a marginal main battery can cause alternator overcharge, or high charge rate for long periods, which then causes weird electronic failures. Replacement of the main battery seems to cure all the ills. My ‘23 Willys sat on the dealer lot for about four months and I expect the aux battery will soon start to fade.

My new 2024 JTR with only a few hundred miles on it, the AUX battery failed, they say because during the strike all the batteries sat around without being installed in Jeeps. Maybe it was just a bad battery though. Jeep replaced the AUX and I replaced the main with an Odyssey.

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[GlacierGladiator]

Can anyone offer suggestions..
So i recently started having issues on my 2020 JT Rubicon not starting or just dying on me while driving. The main battery was replaced 1 year ago so i assume it was good still. The couple time it wouldn't start or died while driving i charged the batteries and things seemed fine. The other day I got in and hit the start button to only get clicks. Finally I was fed up with the aux battery and did the standard delete ( disconnect the Aux ground from main battery and pull fuse 42). I have a taser so I never use auto start/stop. It's disabled with the taser.
So after doing the delete now I'm having all sorts of electrical issues.
Forward collision waring and auto braking on keeps flashing on the cluster. It has died on me 2x after going into park. The Uconnect went haywire and heating controls only had hi & low for temperature. Today i got in and fired it up. Drove away and 2 minutes later the battery warning light came on and a warning- vehicle will shut off soon.
I had the battery tested yesterday and they told me it was a good battery.
I dont understand what is going on and I can't imagine the aux battery delete is causing all these issues. Is my battery really bad and the shop had no clue what they were talking about or is the computer going bad.
I can't even drive the damn thing at this point without concern of it dying while I'm driving and cause an accident.
Should I disconnect the positive from the aux battery as well?
Any ideas would be appreciated. I need to limp this thing to the stealership.
@ShadowsPapa

 

[Mr._Bill]

Can anyone offer suggestions..
So i recently started having issues on my 2020 JT Rubicon not starting or just dying on me while driving. The main battery was replaced 1 year ago so i assume it was good still. The couple time it wouldn't start or died while driving i charged the batteries and things seemed fine. The other day I got in and hit the start button to only get clicks. Finally I was fed up with the aux battery and did the standard delete ( disconnect the Aux ground from main battery and pull fuse 42). I have a taser so I never use auto start/stop. It's disabled with the taser.
So after doing the delete now I'm having all sorts of electrical issues.
Forward collision waring and auto braking on keeps flashing on the cluster. It has died on me 2x after going into park. The Uconnect went haywire and heating controls only had hi & low for temperature. Today i got in and fired it up. Drove away and 2 minutes later the battery warning light came on and a warning- vehicle will shut off soon.
I had the battery tested yesterday and they told me it was a good battery.
I dont understand what is going on and I can't imagine the aux battery delete is causing all these issues. Is my battery really bad and the shop had no clue what they were talking about or is the computer going bad.
I can't even drive the damn thing at this point without concern of it dying while I'm driving and cause an accident.
Should I disconnect the positive from the aux battery as well?
Any ideas would be appreciated. I need to limp this thing to the stealership.

Since it's worse now, undo what you did and see if it gets any better.

Separately charge each battery with a good AGM charger. Let them sit for a while with no load and then check the voltage level for each one. A healthy AGM battery should read about 12.8 volts.

Disconnect the IBS while charging the batteries so it resets. Test the high current fuses on the side of the fuse box. Put it all back together and see what you get.

 

[GlacierGladiator]

Ok so i tested the battery today with both terminals on the main battery and it was 12.4V. Although low, it doesn't seem like a major drop to cause all these issues. I had disconnected both terminals from the main battery and put a charger on it. I'll check in the am if it charged up to 12.8V and then see if it drops from there.
Ridiculous considering the battery is 1 year old.

 

[GladiatorMax]

Ok so i tested the battery today with both terminals on the main battery and it was 12.4V. Although low, it doesn't seem like a major drop to cause all these issues. I had disconnected both terminals from the main battery and put a charger on it. I'll check in the am if it charged up to 12.8V and then see if it drops from there.
Ridiculous considering the battery is 1 year old.

Checking the voltage on a battery is fine, but you also want to test the amperage. Get a load tester or take it to an auto parts store so they can testing properly. Just because a battery has good voltage, doesn't mean it's still good.

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