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Has anyone done the Aux Battery delete like this?

omgoddard

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Haven't been able to find as much info on the ecodiesels as the gaser's for deleting the AUX battery, but this guy on youtube seem's to have had success removing his aux and just hooking his old Aux pos and neg wires to his main batteries pos & neg.

Any thoughts before I do the same - or has anyone tried anything different at all?

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ShadowsPapa

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Haven't been able to find as much info on the ecodiesels as the gaser's for deleting the AUX battery, but this guy on youtube seem's to have had success removing his aux and just hooking his old Aux pos and neg wires to his main batteries pos & neg.

Any thoughts before I do the same - or has anyone tried anything different at all?

Why would you? To what end? The aux battery ground goes to (drum roll, please) the main battery negative! You are just connecting BOTH ends of that same cable to the negative post if you do that.
Simply don't connect it to ANYTHING.
For the positive - no need. The main battery can power N1 through the PCR and other wiring where the aux battery sits. All you need to do is - again, drum roll (because this has been hashed to death here) - pull fuse F42, pull the aux negative off the top of the IBS and call it a day.

)You tube - sometimes I wish it would be bought up by some billionaire and just turned off.)

That guy is needlessly making more work for himself.
Just find the already long thread (and many others that reference the same process) and follow Jerry's simple aux battery bypass-
Pull fuse F42.
Take the aux battery negative cable off the top of the IBS which sits on the main battery negative terminal. Tie it out of the way.
Go have a beer and relax - that's all there is to it.

If you want to remove the battery - then remove it, and wrap up the cables where you removed the battery and leave them where they are. Just insulate them or make sure that they can't touch anything else.
 

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Haven't been able to find as much info on the ecodiesels as the gaser's for deleting the AUX battery, but this guy on youtube seem's to have had success removing his aux and just hooking his old Aux pos and neg wires to his main batteries pos & neg.

Any thoughts before I do the same - or has anyone tried anything different at all?

I thought of doing this before I had a better understanding of how the aux battery functions in the system.
I finally decided to remove the aux batt and pull the F42 fuse. Cover the + cable so it doesn’t short out. I also purchased the biggest battery I could find to replace the original main battery. It takes up all of the battery tray. The new battery is about 1” longer and wider. So far it’s working great.
 

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I thought of doing this before I had a better understanding of how the aux battery functions in the system.
I finally decided to remove the aux batt and pull the F42 fuse. Cover the + cable so it doesn’t short out. I also purchased the biggest battery I could find to replace the original main battery. It takes up all of the battery tray. The new battery is about 1” longer and wider. So far it’s working great.
That's pretty much the point. Lots of utubers who don't read wiring schematics or have any understanding of the systems and their blind leading the blind 'this is how....'


If you didn't have the factory aux switches, you got the smaller 650 battery. With the switches you get the 700. My battery takes up the whole tray length with 0 room to spare.
 

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My former boss predicted youtube back in the 90s when he called the internet the "misinformation stupid highway" (as opposed to the information super-highway.)
 

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That's pretty much the point. Lots of utubers who don't read wiring schematics or have any understanding of the systems and their blind leading the blind 'this is how....'


If you didn't have the factory aux switches, you got the smaller 650 battery. With the switches you get the 700. My battery takes up the whole tray length with 0 room to spare.
I thought it was strange that the the original battery was so smaller than the tray. Guess that explains it. You would think the MT package (that’s what I have) would come with the larger batt too because of the HD electrical group option?
 

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When I can afford it, I will get the Genesis dual system, and run an invertor off it that will go in the space where the litte turd batt used to be...but they raised their prices really high on the diesel version, so Im back to saving some sheckles
 

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I personally don't understand all the hoopla around deleting an AUX battery. Seems kind of silly to me since its sole purpose more or less is to power your electronics which have a constant draw even when the vehicle is off. Why would you want your main starter battery to constantly discharge while sitting? I'm not the smartest, but I would rather keep my starter battery charged.
 

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I personally don't understand all the hoopla around deleting an AUX battery. Seems kind of silly to me since its sole purpose more or less is to power your electronics which have a constant draw even when the vehicle is off. Why would you want your main starter battery to constantly discharge while sitting? I'm not the smartest, but I would rather keep my starter battery charged.
Both batteries are wired in parallel, so they are both discharging at the same time when off.

AUX battery is only for supplying a stable power source for certain electronics during ESS events through use of the PCR. Vehicle off, it is levelized with the main battery discharge rate.
 
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sharpsicle

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I personally don't understand all the hoopla around deleting an AUX battery. Seems kind of silly to me since its sole purpose more or less is to power your electronics which have a constant draw even when the vehicle is off. Why would you want your main starter battery to constantly discharge while sitting? I'm not the smartest, but I would rather keep my starter battery charged.
That's not how the system works. When the vehicle is off, both batteries are in parallel and both will discharge. They call it an AUX battery not because it powers auxiliary equipment, but because it's an auxiliary to the main.
 

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Almost

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I told you I wasn't the smartest. I knew they disconnected during an ESS, but seems odd it wouldn't do the same while parked and off. That seems like a miss.
 

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I thought it was strange that the the original battery was so smaller than the tray. Guess that explains it. You would think the MT package (that’s what I have) would come with the larger batt too because of the HD electrical group option?
I would expect the max tow to come with HD electric and the bigger battery - assuming you would be towing and often that means accessories, a cooler, fridge, whatever.
Camping, towing, overlanding - all require electric power.

We bought a JLU 4xe for my wife. If you get the tow package, it automatically comes with HD electric system., aux switches, etc. - no choice. Weird that the tow package is associated with aux switches, IMO.
I've not looked closely at the 12v battery in it - because the high voltage batteries supposedly keep it charged so maybe size doesn't matter.

Sometimes it's hard to see the whys of their combinations.
 

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1. Why TF didn't Jeep use the battery under battery setup on the gassers?
2. Yeah. The AUX will cannibalize the primary battery when it starts dying, and your supersmart Jeep with its 8,000 sensors and warning lights wont' tell you it's doing until you get hung out to dry somewhere inconvenient.
 

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I personally don't understand all the hoopla around deleting an AUX battery. Seems kind of silly to me since its sole purpose more or less is to power your electronics which have a constant draw even when the vehicle is off. Why would you want your main starter battery to constantly discharge while sitting? I'm not the smartest, but I would rather keep my starter battery charged.
The only real purpose of the aux battery as mentioned above is to power the radio, fan, etc while the truck is in auto stop mode, leaving the main battery free of that load to handle the restart.

If you don't use start/stop then there's no need for that battery, and they have a very long history of going bad and are more involved to replace.

So if you don't use the start/stop then you may as well just drop that battery from your electronics system and operate on the main.

Can you keep it? Of course. But it will become an ongoing replacement cost and labor time (even if your own) for the replacement of something you aren't really making use of.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I personally don't understand all the hoopla around deleting an AUX battery. Seems kind of silly to me since its sole purpose more or less is to power your electronics which have a constant draw even when the vehicle is off. Why would you want your main starter battery to constantly discharge while sitting? I'm not the smartest, but I would rather keep my starter battery charged.
Hootbro and others have pretty much covered it - but you have two batteries handling the parasitic loads while it's sitting. If they were not connected in parallel then all of the electronics sitting waiting for your approach with a fob would be drawing from one single battery. If it was the main battery, that means cranking power would be diminished after sitting. If it was the aux battery, then it would be way down as it's much smaller - and would be very drained and would take a LOT to get it charged back up again. An alternator is not a battery charger - so a lot of discharge of one or the other - one should not assume the alternator will charge one or the other.
So with the parallel connected batteries, it's sitting there with the capacity of the main battery PLUS the capacity of the aux battery. It's more likely to start even with low voltage with over 100% capacity of just the main battery.
Keeping them connected while sitting also ensures that when someone connects a battery charger - they are charging both without even thinking about it.

And for the "but what if one goes bad" crowd - either can go bad. It's no different than a single battery system in that situation. The main battery can go bad, or the aux can go bad.
And for one to "drain" the other, the one that goes bad has to have a SHORT or some other failure that presents a LOAD across the terminals of the other battery. That doesn't always happen. It can die without presenting a load across the terminals of the other.
If a battery fails due to an open internally, it has no impact on the other battery at all. It can't.

2. Yeah. The AUX will cannibalize the primary battery when it starts dying, and your supersmart Jeep with its 8,000 sensors and warning lights wont' tell you it's doing until you get hung out to dry somewhere inconvenient.
Sorry, more internet BS. It may, but it won't necessarily.
The FACT is that the main battery can go bad just as easily and the proof is in these forums. Many have had the MAIN go bad, they replace it and move on.
A battery can die for many reasons - and not all of them mean a drain on the partner battery. There's so much bull crap "info" out there that people have latched onto as "the whole truth so help me god" that it's scary. The experiences of a few loud and vocal haters who don't understand batteries even in general is what folks latch onto - and for some reason, especially Jeep people. They watch a YT video of some fool who ignored warning signs, got stuck in the sticks, kept trying things until they got going again and now they tell the world to watch out and worse "this is how you always need to fix it".
The main battery MAY go bad in such a way as to drain the aux battery.
The aux battery MAY go bad in such a way as to drain the main battery.
But neither is the rule, and a bad battery may not present a load on the other at all.
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