Has anyone done the Aux Battery delete like this?

[ecidiego]

That's pretty much the point. Lots of utubers who don't read wiring schematics or have any understanding of the systems and their blind leading the blind 'this is how....'


If you didn't have the factory aux switches, you got the smaller 650 battery. With the switches you get the 700. My battery takes up the whole tray length with 0 room to spare.

Did you notice the description of the Aux switches in 2023 Build page they don't mention the battery anymore? I wonder if they realized "having 2 separate battery SKUs is dumb".

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[Almost]

I typically try to buy NAPA's best batteries these days. The battery in my 73 Javelin came from NAPA 8 years ago. The car sits a LOT, I mean a LOT. No parasitic draw of course other than modern radio, but it's still a good battery. It's a 5 year battery if I recall.
NAPA batteries are USA made in Pennsylvania if I recall correctly.
And if my JT batteries, either of them, die - if in warranty, let Jeep pay for it, if after, I'll go to NAPA.

After a quick google search it looks like NAPA's batteries (at least some) are made by East Penn as well. All of my East Penn batteries have lasted 5 years or more as well. Even the AUX size ones I use in PWCs that get constantly slammed around have held up just fine. Cheap ones seems to only last 2-3 years in PWCs.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Did you notice the description of the Aux switches in 2023 Build page they don't mention the battery anymore? I wonder if they realized "having 2 separate battery SKUs is dumb".

I've not seen that. Would be interested in seeing a build sheet from a 2023 someone has ordered and received.
I could see why they did the 700 for the switches - assuming you need more reserve, and a cheaper smaller battery otherwise - these don't need a lot of CCA, but they do need amp hours.
So maybe saving a bit was costing them a bit more.
Interesting.

 

[ecidiego]

I've not seen that. Would be interested in seeing a build sheet from a 2023 someone has ordered and received.
I could see why they did the 700 for the switches - assuming you need more reserve, and a cheaper smaller battery otherwise - these don't need a lot of CCA, but they do need amp hours.
So maybe saving a bit was costing them a bit more.
Interesting.

None of their stuff makes sense to me.

The 3 different alternators all cost the same. Put the 240a on all trucks. Simple. The 600w and 850w fan cost the same. Put the same fan on all trucks. Simple.

Instead they make it difficult, you need a damn VIN to get the correct part # instead of just "2022 Gladiator 3.6L V6".

 

[j.o.y.ride]

If I were to disable ESS - like with Tazer or the autostop delete device, I'd remove the battery - why keep the weight in there, the chemicals of a battery, etc.
Pull it out.
I'd leave all wiring - no reason not to, but leave a disconnected battery in there that will lose capacity just sitting, making it worthless in a few months anyway?
It's not going to be a spare battery if that's what they are thinking. It will die - and be worthless in weeks or months. Why keep it?

For those who disable ESS all the time - Tazer or other device, it's totally illogical to leave the battery in there. It's a brick. It won't be any good in the future anyway.
Put it in your lawn tractor.

LOL @ weight. It's 11.5lbs. Not worth the disassembly and headache to remove 11.5 lbs.

You can rig it up to be selectable inclusion in the system or bypassed. So long as you maintain it in the system on occasion to be charged, you would have a working second battery if you need to jump yourself or for some reason decide you want ESS back.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

None of their stuff makes sense to me.

The 3 different alternators all cost the same. Put the 240a on all trucks. Simple. The 600w and 850w fan cost the same. Put the same fan on all trucks. Simple.

Instead they make it difficult, you need a damn VIN to get the correct part # instead of just "2022 Gladiator 3.6L V6".

They don't cost the same to Jeep................. buy this sort of thing wholesale (like I do for my business) and there's big price differences. A stator for one alternator may be 2/3 the price of the next step up, for example. 10 bucks times 50,000 units can add up.
On the other hand, stocking prices matter, too - back in the last century, an auto maker said right in their parts books and TSBs that if a car comes in needing an alternator replacement under warranty, use anything on hand as long as it's "at least as......" as the original. So you could end up with a larger output alternator after a warranty repair. But tens of thousands of them in production, a different animal. They have to weigh the cost of stocking replacements, inventory, tracking, and other factors.

You can rig it up to be selectable inclusion in the system or bypassed. So long as you maintain it in the system on occasion to be charged, you would have a working second battery if you need to jump yourself or for some reason decide you want ESS back.

For that hassle, I carry a jump pack that charges via the truck's 12v outlet.
You'd need to put it back in the system every week - and then check it to be sure it's actually charged. A battery at only 12.2 volts can take 3 or 4 hours to fully charge.
Is it worth that? It can be removed in a few minutes.
Do whatever, but for pulling 2 plastic retainers and pulling the fender liner back - I don't care to make sure it's always charged.

 

[rubicon4wheeler]

I also purchased the biggest battery I could find to replace the original main battery. It takes up all of the battery tray. The new battery is about 1” longer and wider. So far it’s working great.

What group size is your new battery?

 

[Puch]

What group size is your new battery?

I had to look it up. Pretty sure it was 94R. 800CCA and 920CA.
O’Reilly’s part # 94RPLT.
I’ll check when I get home. I do know it takes up all of the tray and that’s the biggest platinum battery they offer. If you want more Amps, you would have to go with the Optima battery that they sell. I didn’t think I needed that kind of power… then again, you can never have too much power??

 

[rubicon4wheeler]

If you want more Amps, you would have to go with the Optima battery that they sell.

Thank you for the info on the Group 94. As for Optima, someone would have to pay me to use one of their batteries, and I'd still carry any other brand with me as a backup for WHEN (not IF) it failed on me.

 

[porsharman]

I personally don't understand all the hoopla around deleting an AUX battery. Seems kind of silly to me since its sole purpose more or less is to power your electronics which have a constant draw even when the vehicle is off. Why would you want your main starter battery to constantly discharge while sitting? I'm not the smartest, but I would rather keep my starter battery charged.

There is no hoopla. The auxiliary battery main function is providing power for the ESS system. The problem is that the auxiliary battery appears to fail more frequently than the main battery and when it fails it takes the main battery with it. Now you may consider this a minor issue however should this happen off road it can become a major issue. A work around is eliminate the auxiliary battery, pull fuse F42, and Tazer your ESS feature. Yes your main battery can fail but sorting it out is much easier to diagnose. Nobody is saying you have to delete/disconnect your auxiliary battery. It is a suggestion only. I have a 2021 JTRD and have been running without an auxiliary battery with any issues.

 

[Rusty PW]

Guess you can call the aux battery "homicidal-suicidal". Before it dies, it takes out the main battery.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

and when it fails it takes the main battery with it.

Nope, that's the "internet genius experts" talking. Not real electricians.
Batteries fail in many ways - and it's not even "likely" to take out the other, let alone a certainty.
There's just a lot of bull crap out there on batteries and diagnosing things. It's truly amazing how much traction the youtube dopes get on their click bait.
And often, those who way "it can't even be jumped" are failing because they don't properly jump a vehicle - they hurry, connect, jump in and try it. That's wrong.
Not a one of them knows how to diagnose anything and yet they sure run around yelling "she's gonna blow, get rid of it now while you can"!

Either is easy to diagnose if you pay attention to the vehicle at all. There's almost always a warning of some sort, but most people drive and never pay attention to what the vehicle is telling them, never look at gauges, just a tack and speedometer (if that)


I hit youtube now and then when I want a good laugh or want to be amused, or marvel at what's taken as expertise out there.

Yes your main battery can fail but sorting it out is much easier to diagnose.

No, not really. They can fail without warning and leave you stranded, and even unable to jump start. Over the decades I've worked on cars and charging systems, I've seen it a few times. I had it happen to my own Chevy truck. Truck was absolutely fine - then the next day - nuttin. Wouldn't crank, wouldn't do anything. Battery had decided to short internally. That prevented jumping as it pulled down the jump vehicle really badly.

Batteries can fail in multiple ways, and not always sucking the life out of the battery that's in parallel with it.

The biggest killers of Jeep batteries are:
Jeep batteries suck - they rarely last beyond 3 years. 2.5 years isn't uncommon
People don't drive their Jeep often enough, it sits for days,
then,
when it's driven, it's for only 30 minutes at a time - that will NOT charge a battery that's been sitting and drawn down by the parasitic drain of the vehicles electronics (or even added accessories)
So if you don't drive it often, and/or don't drive it more than 30 minutes at a time (say, for only short commutes) your batteries will not last long.

 

[porsharman]

Nope, that's the "internet genius experts" talking. Not real electricians.
Batteries fail in many ways - and it's not even "likely" to take out the other, let alone a certainty.
There's just a lot of bull crap out there on batteries and diagnosing things. It's truly amazing how much traction the youtube dopes get on their click bait.
And often, those who way "it can't even be jumped" are failing because they don't properly jump a vehicle - they hurry, connect, jump in and try it. That's wrong.
Not a one of them knows how to diagnose anything and yet they sure run around yelling "she's gonna blow, get rid of it now while you can"!

Either is easy to diagnose if you pay attention to the vehicle at all. There's almost always a warning of some sort, but most people drive and never pay attention to what the vehicle is telling them, never look at gauges, just a tack and speedometer (if that)


I hit youtube now and then when I want a good laugh or want to be amused, or marvel at what's taken as expertise out there.

No, not really. They can fail without warning and leave you stranded, and even unable to jump start. Over the decades I've worked on cars and charging systems, I've seen it a few times. I had it happen to my own Chevy truck. Truck was absolutely fine - then the next day - nuttin. Wouldn't crank, wouldn't do anything. Battery had decided to short internally. That prevented jumping as it pulled down the jump vehicle really badly.

Batteries can fail in multiple ways, and not always sucking the life out of the battery that's in parallel with it.

The biggest killers of Jeep batteries are:
Jeep batteries suck - they rarely last beyond 3 years. 2.5 years isn't uncommon
People don't drive their Jeep often enough, it sits for days,
then,
when it's driven, it's for only 30 minutes at a time - that will NOT charge a battery that's been sitting and drawn down by the parasitic drain of the vehicles electronics (or even added accessories)
So if you don't drive it often, and/or don't drive it more than 30 minutes at a time (say, for only short commutes) your batteries will not last long.

Taking my comment out of context changes my point. The point is by eliminating the auxiliary battery you no longer have another factor to sort out because it doesn’t exist. Now you are dealing with just the main battery to troubleshoot. That’s all I’m trying to say which is germane to the subject and the many post pertaining to this subject.

 

[Jeepasaurus_Rex]

Ya'll could just buy the Cascadia 4x4 hood solar panel and eliminate most of the issues in here

 

[porsharman]

Ya'll could just buy the Cascadia 4x4 hood solar panel and eliminate most of the issues in here

That is an excellent point however you will still get pushback from some of our resident “experts “. I have recently installed the Cascadia unit on my rig and it has performed flawlessly. But again our experts will probably disagree because it wasn’t their suggestion.

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