Axle re-centering after lift

[Geoarch]

Your rig....but I would advise doing it correctly the first time.
@Clayton Off Road is generous as @LostWoods states. I threw their chart in as a starting point. Those numbers look small but you will notice. Bunch of engineers way smarter than me did the math.
I went with Clayton over Mopar as there has been some discussion about how the Mopar lift could benefit from adjustable track arms and control arms.

Mine rides great with the lift, adjustable control arms, track bar, and the shocks. Installed the lift, torqued it all to spec, got it close, then took it immediately to get aligned at a pro shop. Took me two days to do lift and wire the shocks up. Felt like I lifted heavy for those two days.
Then drive it a bit and recheck your torque.

I guess it will be an experiment with the Mopar lift. If it's off-center, which everyone says it will be, then I'll at least get an adjustable track bar and go from there. I have a real picky dealer who has refused warranty on any suspension issues if aftermarket lifts are installed. I know, go to another dealer, but we're a small state population wise and don't have many options.

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[Geoarch]

The calculations would be pretty simple.
The stock track bar is xx" long. It pivots on the left side. That's the axis - the left end. Knowing the length of the track bar, you can figure the size of the arc or swing. If it was perfectly level or parallel with the ground, the math would be extremely simple - drop 2" and you know how far the right end will move.

The track bar (horizontal black line, length indicated by blue lines) is a known length. That gives us a specific circle diameter.
We can figure with a little geometry when the right end moves down xx" (green), it will move horizontally yy" (red)

I get the geometry. I'm perhaps being too cheap.

 

[DocMike]

I'm only good at the stats....not the maths.
Better watch @ShadowsPapa he may tell you you need to upgrade the frame. Then you throw in the towel and buy a Bronco and he will ask you to wear a coat with long arms and buckles on the back...

The calculations would be pretty simple.
The stock track bar is xx" long. It on the left side. That's the axis - the left end. Knowing the length of the track bar, you can figure the size of the arc or swing. If it was perfectly level or parallel with the ground, the math would be extremely simple - drop 2" and you know how far the right end will move.

The track bar (horizontal black line, length indicated by blue lines) is a known length. That gives us a specific circle diameter.
We can figure with a little geometry when the right end moves down xx" (green), it will move horizontally yy" (red)

 

[DocMike]

All good. We are not far apart. Hope to get to wheel with you some day.

I guess it will be an experiment with the Mopar lift. If it's off-center, which everyone says it will be, then I'll at least get an adjustable track bar and go from there. I have a real picky dealer who has refused warranty on any suspension issues if aftermarket lifts are installed. I know, go to another dealer, but we're a small state population wise and don't have many options.

 

[Casique]

I stand corrected, took mine off and replaced with metal cloak. I thought I saw an adjustment sleeve. Nope, its crimped solid.

 

[@californiajeeping]

I guess it will be an experiment with the Mopar lift. If it's off-center, which everyone says it will be, then I'll at least get an adjustable track bar and go from there. I have a real picky dealer who has refused warranty on any suspension issues if aftermarket lifts are installed. I know, go to another dealer, but we're a small state population wise and don't have many options.

You can get a track bar relocation bracket that "MAY" get it closer.....The risk is you end up dog leg down the highway and cause wear on pretty much everything and will be more suseptible to death wobble.

 

[Geoarch]

You can get a track bar relocation bracket that "MAY" get it closer.....The risk is you end up dog leg down the highway and cause wear on pretty much everything and will be more suseptible to death wobble.

Yeah, I'll get front and rear MC ones and call it a day. It's not that expensive.

 

[DocMike]

I'll confess I went and double checked my stock one. It looks like I could be adjusted. Nope.

I stand corrected, took mine off and replaced with metal cloak. I thought I saw an adjustment sleeve. Nope, its crimped solid.

 

[sass JT]

I’m gonna keep my mouth shut … kinda….
To the op… it’s your rig… love it or hate it…. And only you can choose what you do with.

 

[WhyNotJeep]

A floor jack lifting the frame 2 inches pulls the front axle about 3/4 inch to the driver side.

 

[SargeDiesel]

The OEM track bar is adjustable already!

how ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

how ?

BFH

The only thing adjustable on these is the drag link to recenter the wheel and the tie rod to set toe.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

You can get a track bar relocation bracket that "MAY" get it closer.....The risk is you end up dog leg down the highway and cause wear on pretty much everything and will be more suseptible to death wobble.

This pretty well sums it up. Tire cost adds up, and they wear out fast enough when everything is correctly aligned. Buy a quality

I seea reference or two about an alignment done at a shop. If you wheel your Jeep at all… you should watch a couple YouTube videos -dirt lifestyle has a great one, on how to align your Jeep at home. A friend, two 4’+ levels and a tape measure- you will want to be 1/16th toe out on a 2-3.5” lift. Get used to checking this on the regular.

Also- it’s worth spending $8-9 (ea) on a few aircraft split lock nuts and using them on your track bar bolts (rated for 500* and can be removed 20 times before out of spec) Nylocs can only be removed 3-4 times before they need to be tossed. A loose track bar nut is why most guys end up wallowing out the mount hole and this will hide the root cause to death wobble. So torque your track bar bolt to spec, mark it with a paint pen and check it after each wheeling trip.

 

[SargeDiesel]

BFH

The only thing adjustable on these is the drag link to recenter the wheel and the tie rod to set toe.

I was wanting to see exactly how he backed up and explained his statement.... he must have watched the same youtube video I did about a guy installing an adjustable track bar on his willy, took off his old one and realized it was adjustable... so he then came to the conclusion and stated that the oem was adjustable from the factory, what he didn't say(until the end) he bought it used,.. conclusion: previous owner installed the adjustable... lol

 

[SargeDiesel]

Can someone please tell me if the REAR track bar for the DIESEL is the same as the one on the GASSER ? Thanks

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