Back up camera at night…

[InvertedLogic]

Yep I use the Tazer Mini which does it automatically. One of the better features imo.

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[turbomc]

The license plate light is required equipment: you can get cited if it’s out.



$60?
Time to buy some connectors…

Kevin

You may want to consider what goes into creating something like this before judging the selling price as too high.
1. the parts alone for each harness cost $32.39 not counting crimping pliers and other small tools
2. the hours spent trying out the idea and making corrections to it until it's as perfect as I'm capable of getting it.
3. the time to write the narrative and take photos for the 10 page color illustrated installation pages
4. the research time that went into determining the exact connector, terminal gauge/cavity sizes, appropriate plugs, seals, blanks to keep the water tight integrity of the connectors the same as the ones that the bypass-light cancel harness mates with.
5. the idea itself, you may be able to get the parts to make one but you'd be copying my idea and design
6. the labor to assemble one which is about 45-60 minutes

I put out request for quotes to 6 wiring harness assembly companies. The best quote I got back was this:

All things considered I think $60 is better than reasonable. I have a full time job but do these projects because I make them for myself and then, if it's good enough for me, try to share it with others without losing money and at the same time getting paid a small amount for my time.

 

[Kevin_D]

You may want to consider what goes into creating something like this before judging the selling price as too high.
1. the parts alone for each harness cost $32.39 not counting crimping pliers and other small tools
2. the hours spent trying out the idea and making corrections to it until it's as perfect as I'm capable of getting it.
3. the time to write the narrative and take photos for the 10 page color illustrated installation pages
4. the research time that went into determining the exact connector, terminal gauge/cavity sizes, appropriate plugs, seals, blanks to keep the water tight integrity of the connectors the same as the ones that the bypass-light cancel harness mates with.
5. the idea itself, you may be able to get the parts to make one but you'd be copying my idea and design
6. the labor to assemble one which is about 45-60 minutes

I put out request for quotes to 6 wiring harness assembly companies. The best quote I got back was this:

All things considered I think $60 is better than reasonable. I have a full time job but do these projects because I make them for myself and then, if it's good enough for me, try to share it with others without losing money and at the same time getting paid a small amount for my time.

I didn't say the price was unreasonable, I just insinuated that I wasn't going to pay that.
I enjoy projects like this also, and I'll probably end up doing something similar without a relay.

Kevin

 

[turbomc]

I didn't say the price was unreasonable, I just insinuated that I wasn't going to pay that.
I enjoy projects like this also, and I'll probably end up doing something similar without a relay.

Kevin

Understood! But like I said the parts are going to cost you about $27 a piece even without the relay. Also know that even though it only talks 7 male and female terminals of one size and 3 male and female terminals of another size they usually sell those at a minimum order quantity of 50 each. So you have to pay for 200 terminals just to build one harness ?. I'd be curious on how you would do it without a relay. Do you have another switching device in mind? Take a look at the other stuff I made on ebay. I made a replacement door connector too. The one Jeep supplied fails to often for the guys around here's liking. It is still in testing phase though.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had the idea way back so don't feel I'd be "steeling an idea" - there's feed for everything going to the trailer connector, and it wouldn't be that much different than a circuit to allow both manual and automatic control of the bumper-mounted backup lights I have........... but....
I haven't made one for lack of tools for crimping the correct terminals and sometimes you find it better to let someone who is already set up to do it - just do it.
Sometimes it's just easier to let someone else make a "one time" thing - if I was doing something for multiple people or time, yeah - but I've enough on my plate.

But I don't have the tools, and don't want to spend the time for a one-time need finding the parts.
Relays - no issue. Have jars of them.

I'd absolutely want a diode-protected relay in these lighting systems otherwise dropping current through the coil can cause a reverse spike. I'd use no other type on my Jeep. Diode across coil connections 85 and 86.

Even my cruise circuit has a relay with the internal diode across the coil to protect the circuit it's in. I didn't want to cause issues with the PCM I'm using in that car.

How about a switching transistor instead of a relay - these really have extremely low current going to the LED license plate lights, it's zero compared to the alternator rotor winding current that my regulator circuit controls. A more complex circuit to be sure but the current load is so crazy low, there's no contacts to go goofy.

 

[Ball_Ze]

You may want to consider what goes into creating something like this before judging the selling price as too high.
1. the parts alone for each harness cost $32.39 not counting crimping pliers and other small tools
2. the hours spent trying out the idea and making corrections to it until it's as perfect as I'm capable of getting it.
3. the time to write the narrative and take photos for the 10 page color illustrated installation pages
4. the research time that went into determining the exact connector, terminal gauge/cavity sizes, appropriate plugs, seals, blanks to keep the water tight integrity of the connectors the same as the ones that the bypass-light cancel harness mates with.
5. the idea itself, you may be able to get the parts to make one but you'd be copying my idea and design
6. the labor to assemble one which is about 45-60 minutes

I put out request for quotes to 6 wiring harness assembly companies. The best quote I got back was this:

All things considered I think $60 is better than reasonable. I have a full time job but do these projects because I make them for myself and then, if it's good enough for me, try to share it with others without losing money and at the same time getting paid a small amount for my time.

Wow - so you're here now!?

Thank you for working with me on getting your latest harness!

Scot

P.S. Automotive engineer here that has had to design and make harnesses to fit prototype engines in current production vehicles. Everything you write above is true - and that lead time looks a bit gratuitous, and it probably doesn't account for testing every relay produced either (yeah, we've also made test benches to validate harness builds on larger projects).

Thank you for doing this for the community!

 

[PeteC]

I had the idea way back so don't feel I'd be "steeling an idea" - there's feed for everything going to the trailer connector, and it wouldn't be that much different than a circuit to allow both manual and automatic control of the bumper-mounted backup lights I have........... but....
I haven't made one for lack of tools for crimping the correct terminals and sometimes you find it better to let someone who is already set up to do it - just do it.
Sometimes it's just easier to let someone else make a "one time" thing - if I was doing something for multiple people or time, yeah - but I've enough on my plate.

But I don't have the tools, and don't want to spend the time for a one-time need finding the parts.
Relays - no issue. Have jars of them.

I'd absolutely want a diode-protected relay in these lighting systems otherwise dropping current through the coil can cause a reverse spike. I'd use no other type on my Jeep. Diode across coil connections 85 and 86.

Even my cruise circuit has a relay with the internal diode across the coil to protect the circuit it's in. I didn't want to cause issues with the PCM I'm using in that car.

How about a switching transistor instead of a relay - these really have extremely low current going to the LED license plate lights, it's zero compared to the alternator rotor winding current that my regulator circuit controls. A more complex circuit to be sure but the current load is so crazy low, there's no contacts to go goofy.

You thought of it way back huh? Well I thought of it before I was born so there! That's a good idea tapping into the trailer hitch connector. It may be easier and cheaper to use that connector.

 

[Rocksalt]

a pieceof black duct tape placed over top half of each license plate light works

 

[Radio Guy]

a pieceof black duct tape placed over top half of each license plate light works

I did the same thing a few days ago and its working great. My lights have two LEDs on top of each other and I laid the tape down with the lower edge right across the center of the lower LED cutting it in half and completely covering the top LED and all the lens above the lower LED. I also used an Exacto knife to trim the tape around the circumference of the lens. This only allows some of the lower LED to hit the license plate but I think its still adequately lit for legal purposes. The backup camera is now bright and clear.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

a pieceof black duct tape placed over top half of each license plate light works

These lights do have a bit much light "leaking" out the top - I can see it working out fine. I think the smoke filter like I've tried recently dulls the lights too much for the plate area.

 

[RustySeatbelt]

Just wanted to followup to this post to say that I purchased the backup light control harness from turbomc about a week ago off of ebay. The installation this morning took all of 10 minutes, and the instructions that came with the harness were crystal clear. The harness works just as expected. Looking forward to giving it a try later tonight, but for anyone who might have questions on how hard it is to install, or anything else, I'm happy to help answer what I can. Thanks turbomc, the shipping was super fast, and I really appreciate the work you put into this thing. The quality of the harness is top notch!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just wanted to followup to this post to say that I purchased the backup light control harness from turbomc about a week ago off of ebay. The installation this morning took all of 10 minutes, and the instructions that came with the harness were crystal clear. The harness works just as expected. Looking forward to giving it a try later tonight, but for anyone who might have questions on how hard it is to install, or anything else, I'm happy to help answer what I can. Thanks turbomc, the shipping was super fast, and I really appreciate the work you put into this thing. The quality of the harness is top notch!

Do you have pics of your install. It's tempting as I'd rather not dig up the connectors and such myself. I'm having enough difficulty getting far less complex connectors for restoration work and spending a ton of time getting that stuff. Sometimes it pays to let someone else do the work and pay them. (especially with this good review)

 

[Gatorac]

I installed the Oracle bumper back up lights because I was not happy with the factory back up lights. This also solved the problem of the license plates lights washing out the camera. I've now added the Oracle "flush mount" taillights. The backup lighting is now freaking awesome. No issues with the plate lights. I was really pleased with the quality of Oracle's bumper back up lights. That's the primary reason I pulled the trigger on their taillights.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I installed the Oracle bumper back up lights because I was not happy with the factory back up lights. This also solved the problem of the license plates lights washing out the camera. I've now added the Oracle "flush mount" taillights. The backup lighting is now freaking awesome. No issues with the plate lights. I was really pleased with the quality of Oracle's bumper back up lights. That's the primary reason I pulled the trigger on their taillights.

How can the backup lights "solve the problems of the license plate lights........" ??
They can't. Totally different lights and issues.
I also have the Oracle high-intensity bumper-mounted back up lights and it makes no difference with the license plate lights on the backup camera.
There is still license plate light GLARE on the camera. That's the washout.
It's the license plate lights shining directly on the backup camera lens that is the issue, the issue isn't "not enough backup lights".

I blind people for a block behind me now, and see the back wall on my garage smoke when I back into the garage with the Oracle reverse lights in my bumper - but still the license plate lights shine and reflect on the camera lens.

 

[Gatorac]

It's no longer an issue on my truck. I'm not sure why you would think I'm making that up. It sucked before the bumper lights. Now I can see fine. The camera adjusts it's sensitivity based on the ambient lighting. When you have more light out the back, it overcomes the camera adjusting for the license plate lights. At least that's what's happening on mine. Would it be even better if the license plate lights were out? Possibly. But not worth my time at this point to try as it works fine right now.

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