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Badlands apex winch on rock hard aluminum bumper question

Improper_1

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I found an issue with the Badland and the RockHard aluminum bumper with lowered winch plate. The bolts provided by Badland are too short to accommodate the provided steel reinforcement plates and need to source a longer bolt.
I had the same issue with the exact setup, except I have the full width bumper..... the solution is M10 x 40MM 8.8 bolts. They are the perfect size for the thicker Aluminum plus the support plates. My Ace Hardware did not have them in 40MM length, but yours may differ. I also sometimes source through Bolt Depot as I can usually find the exact hardware I am looking for. I just bought these available from bulldog winch:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Bulldog-Winch/BDW20180.html
I also followed the torque spec in the badlands manual as it was a little less than I thought and did not want to strip anything. I went with the grade 5/8.8 as I figure they are plenty, and that is what most winch manufacturers are supplying.

Mounting the fairlead was problematic as I had a fishbone off-road front license plate holder and the supplied hardware came up short. I opted for M12x1.75x55MM stainless bolts (from bolt depot) and it was perfect.

Another issue was mounting the fog lights in the Rock hard bumper. I had to use longer self tapping screws and about 5 washers to aim the fog lights appropriately. Those I just got from Ace.

Hopefully this helps spare someone a headache and several trips to Ace Hardware! I should probably make a build thread.
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Aleph

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I had the same issue with the exact setup, except I have the full width bumper..... the solution is M10 x 40MM 8.8 bolts. They are the perfect size for the thicker Aluminum plus the support plates. My Ace Hardware did not have them in 40MM length, but yours may differ. I also sometimes source through Bolt Depot as I can usually find the exact hardware I am looking for. I just bought these available from bulldog winch:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Bulldog-Winch/BDW20180.html
I also followed the torque spec in the badlands manual as it was a little less than I thought and did not want to strip anything. I went with the grade 5/8.8 as I figure they are plenty, and that is what most winch manufacturers are supplying.

Mounting the fairlead was problematic as I had a fishbone off-road front license plate holder and the supplied hardware came up short. I opted for M12x1.75x55MM stainless bolts (from bolt depot) and it was perfect.

Another issue was mounting the fog lights in the Rock hard bumper. I had to use longer self tapping screws and about 5 washers to aim the fog lights appropriately. Those I just got from Ace.

Hopefully this helps spare someone a headache and several trips to Ace Hardware! I should probably make a build thread.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!

I have been losing my FREAKING MIND for the past week trying to figure this out! My background is in medical science rather than engineering/mechanical, so I was venturing out of my depth here.

I was going deep into decade-old 4x4 forum posts, reading materials science papers on corrosion-resistant coatings, calling the Badland winch hardware manufacturer in Shanghai, multiple trips to Ace Hardware, browsed commercial hardware distributors... I spent so much time because it was difficult to find a compatible combination of square nuts and metric bolts of the appropriate grade that my obsessive-compulsion and lack of knowledge would allow. I was starting to lose hope today and getting closer to caving and paying an exorbitant shop fee to avoid more headache.

thank you.
 

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Improper_1

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THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!

I have been losing my FREAKING MIND for the past week trying to figure this out! My background is in medical science rather than engineering/mechanical, so I was venturing out of my depth here.

I was going deep into decade-old 4x4 forum posts, reading materials science papers on corrosion-resistant coatings, calling the Badland winch hardware manufacturer in Shanghai, multiple trips to Ace Hardware, browsed commercial hardware distributors... I spent so much time because it was difficult to find a compatible combination of square nuts and metric bolts of the appropriate grade that my obsessive-compulsion and lack of knowledge would allow. I was starting to lose hope today and getting closer to caving and paying an exorbitant shop fee to avoid more headache.

thank you.
I did almost the same thing you did, and it is a deep, time consuming rabbit hole! My wife was laughing as I also have a green Mojave with the exact same setup, and she asked if this was the past me 😂. But that is why we have these forums- to share experience, learn and hopefully save someone the effort for something we did ourselves.

The M10 square nuts seem hard to find, so that is why I opted for the bulldog kit as it came with everything you need and the length is perfect with the additional reinforcement plate for the winch. You can find them at several different retailers online.

I did install the bumper first and then the winch. It was necessary to use all the supplied spacers to have the winch clear the grill. I'm not a fan of the cable coming out the back but it is not bad, it's concealed, and can probably be mitigated with something like lizard skins frame protector or those rock stopperz adhesive clear patches.

I saw your post on the other thread, and you can access the bolts for the winch from underneath the bumper once the bumper is on. Just adhere to the advice of others on the thread and put the square nuts in the winch feet first along with a small piece of tape to hold them in... Then drop the winch in place. Form there you can access from below, and it may take a little wiggling and alignment to get them stabbed, bit it is not too hard with a flashlight. Don't over torque.. if needed almost all auto stores like AutoZone, etc. lend torque wrenches for free with a refundable deposit. Then for working routing, I pretty much followed the passenger side frame rail.

If any assurance the Rockhard bumper's integrated skid covers everything for the mojave's shocks.

Also, with the weight savings on the aluminum bumper, then adding on the winch, you are about net zero on weight from stock and I did not notice any drop on the front suspension.
 

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Aleph

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I did almost the same thing you did, and it is a deep, time consuming rabbit hole! My wife was laughing as I also have a green Mojave with the exact same setup, and she asked if this was the past me 😂. But that is why we have these forums- to share experience, learn and hopefully save someone the effort for something we did ourselves.

The M10 square nuts seem hard to find, so that is why I opted for the bulldog kit as it came with everything you need and the length is perfect with the additional reinforcement plate for the winch. You can find them at several different retailers online.

I did install the bumper first and then the winch. It was necessary to use all the supplied spacers to have the winch clear the grill. I'm not a fan of the cable coming out the back but it is not bad, it's concealed, and can probably be mitigated with something like lizard skins frame protector or those rock stopperz adhesive clear patches.

I saw your post on the other thread, and you can access the bolts for the winch from underneath the bumper once the bumper is on. Just adhere to the advice of others on the thread and put the square nuts in the winch feet first along with a small piece of tape to hold them in... Then drop the winch in place. Form there you can access from below, and it may take a little wiggling and alignment to get them stabbed, bit it is not too hard with a flashlight. Don't over torque.. if needed almost all auto stores like AutoZone, etc. lend torque wrenches for free with a refundable deposit. Then for working routing, I pretty much followed the passenger side frame rail.

If any assurance the Rockhard bumper's integrated skid covers everything for the mojave's shocks.

Also, with the weight savings on the aluminum bumper, then adding on the winch, you are about net zero on weight from stock and I did not notice any drop on the front suspension.
Awesome! Thanks for answering all of my questions. I really didn’t think the bottom of the winch plate would be accessible from under the vehicle and behind the bunper, but from your experience here it seems that it is.

I’ll probably need to rent a smaller torque wrench because the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench I own is slightly too large to fit into the wedge-like space for the forward-most winch bolt holes.

Did you run the wiring around the air box at all or just along the passenger frame rail and then routed directly upwards to the battery?
 

Improper_1

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No problem. A 3/8" drive is about the biggest that will fit for those bolts. I had a 3/8" torque wrench from harbor freight I picked up for cheap on sale. It does the job and I realize there is probably better out there but for as often as I use it ..

Anyways, I routed the cable along the frame rail until about under the front of airbox and went straight up. I'll see if I can get photos. Leave a little slack on the cable by the winch so you can unbolt the winch and slide it aside if needed in the future.

Also when mounting the winch, stab the bolts first then check the clearance on all the sides as it is a tight fit, but it will drop right in.
 

Improper_1

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Okay, these are the mounting bolts for the winch in the underside:
Jeep Gladiator Badlands apex winch on rock hard aluminum bumper question 1000013985

Then this is the routing I took with my cables using several zip ties to secure it on the way up (follow the black corrugated cable... Than can use the belt pulley on the top center/right of photo for reference). Be sure to leave clearance with the nearby belt and exhaust. I would like to mount the disconnect switch, but it seems to fit just fine as is for now. Lifting the hood to turn on/off serves as a reminder to keep the hood up as a shield when winching. I do use a winch rope damper but an extra safety factor does not hurt.

Jeep Gladiator Badlands apex winch on rock hard aluminum bumper question 1000013986
k
Jeep Gladiator Badlands apex winch on rock hard aluminum bumper question 1000013987
 

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Torque wrench for the bolts on the apex winch??? red locktite and all the uga uga's of the 1/2 impact... send it!!
 

Aleph

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Okay, these are the mounting bolts for the winch in the underside:
1000013985.jpg

Then this is the routing I took with my cables using several zip ties to secure it on the way up (follow the black corrugated cable... Than can use the belt pulley on the top center/right of photo for reference). Be sure to leave clearance with the nearby belt and exhaust. I would like to mount the disconnect switch, but it seems to fit just fine as is for now. Lifting the hood to turn on/off serves as a reminder to keep the hood up as a shield when winching. I do use a winch rope damper but an extra safety factor does not hurt.

1000013986.jpg
k
1000013987.jpg
Did you have to move/pull the airbox at all?
 

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Lifting the hood to turn on/off serves as a reminder to keep the hood up as a shield when winching.
How does that work if you are being winched?
 

Improper_1

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Did you have to move/pull the airbox at all?
No, I just routed the cables up on the backside between the air box and battery. No need to do anything with the air box.

It may make it easy to drop something down like another cable, or cable fish rod from the top and then fish the cable up. Just be sure it stays away from any rotating or exhaust.
 

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No, I just routed the cables up on the backside between the air box and battery. No need to do anything with the air box.

It may make it easy to drop something down like another cable, or cable fish rod from the top and then fish the cable up. Just be sure it stays away from any rotating or exhaust.
i took mine out so i could secure cables and make it clean
 

Improper_1

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How does that work if you are being winched?
If the anchor, the operator is typically in the vehicle with
How does that work if you are being winched?
With the hood up, if the line broke and flew back, the hood would theoretically take the hit and not go through the windshield. Hopefully the line dampers, use of synthetic line and best practice of going hook latch up would prevent this in the first place. I am not an expert by any means so not saying this is best. Warn has a good manual for some light reading: https://www.warn.com/basic-guide-to-winching-before-you-pull

It was just something I adopted from the jeep adventure academy, and doing some reading online. Granted it is situation dependent, but generally I used a spotter and the front trailcam and try to stay out of the line of fire. But there are a ton of threads even in this forum on winching with lots of opinions and best practices. But we are really in this thread to talk about mounting the winch the the rock hard bumper :)
 

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But we are really in this thread to talk about mounting the winch the the rock hard bumper :)
Yes, and then you brought up this radical blind winching technique.
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