Bed D ring tie down torque specs

[IronHorse87]

Looking for the torque specs for the front factory d ring tie downs

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[Jeffjk]

Looking for the torque specs for the front factory tie downs on the bottom side of the bed.

Attached is the procedure for the pick-up box from the MOTOR Driven Auto Repair Source database. Step 3 in the installation steps says "torque cargo box hold down bolts to 80 Nm. (59 ft. lbs.)".

 

[whiteglad]

if instead you mean the D rings inside the bed at the front, those bolts are M8 if I recall so should be tightened to around 15-18 ft lb

 

[Jeffjk]

if instead you mean the D rings inside the bed at the front, those bolts are M8 if I recall so should be tightened to around 15-18 ft lb

Thanks, I was looking for those as well … it was unclear if that’s what was being referred to.

Edit - Note: this is a third party DB and could be inaccurate. I added it for context so we can get to the right answers. I will provide feedback to the DB owner if we find a true answer (not that they’ll actually fix it or keep up if the spec changes ?)

 

[Jeffjk]

if instead you mean the D rings inside the bed at the front, those bolts are M8 if I recall so should be tightened to around 15-18 ft lb

OP did say bottom side of the bed which is what is pictured in the diagrams in the PDF I posted but thanks again, this helps complete the picture of more of the entire bed box.

 

[IronHorse87]

Thanks I did mean the D rings I don’t know why I didn’t say that. I will edit the title so it’s clearer for future searchers. I have plans to make a tie down connection for a project and wasn’t sure if it required more torque for holding loads.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks I did mean the D rings I don’t know why I didn’t say that. I will edit the title so it’s clearer for future searchers. I have plans to make a tie down connection for a project and wasn’t sure if it required more torque for holding loads.

You want to be careful with some of the bed and box attachments as some go into "nutserts" which are typically soft and can have the threads ripped out pretty easily.

if instead you mean the D rings inside the bed at the front, those bolts are M8 if I recall so should be tightened to around 15-18 ft lb

That's for a bolt into something solid like a nut - many of the fasteners in these beds aren't into anything like a nut - more like a rivnut. I've not looked at those, but the threaded holes for the trail rails - I'd be careful about how much torque I put into those. It's a softer metal, not like putting a bolt into a nut. Yes you want that clamping force but when threaded into a rivnut, you have a weaker link than the bolt.

 

[charliez]

3 Ugga Dugga's is what most people use

 

[Maximus Gladius]

When ever I need to find what something is torqued to and don’t see anything posted, especially for the small nuts and bolts you’d use an inch lbs torque bar for, I would just back off the nut or bolt till there’s a slight reverse movement then work up the torque bar till it gives the nut/bolt slight movement forward. You’d be in the ball park,….unless it had backed off in the first place like my lower ball joints, found at 7 ft lbs. (but those specs are found easy). I’m referring to what I’d do in OP’s case here.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

When ever I need to find what something is torqued to and don’t see anything posted, especially for the small nuts and bolts you’d use an inch lbs torque bar for, I would just back off the nut or bolt till there’s a slight reverse movement then work up the torque bar till it gives the nut/bolt slight movement forward. You’d be in the ball park,….unless it had backed off in the first place like my lower ball joints, found at 7 ft lbs. (but those specs are found easy). I’m referring to what I’d do in OP’s case here.

The problem enters when you have the bolts out and want to put them back and want the proper torque specs for reinstallation.
Your method would only work in the case of not having removed the bolts.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

The problem enters when you have the bolts out and want to put them back and want the proper torque specs for reinstallation.
Your method would only work in the case of not having removed the bolts.

That makes sense. When I get home I’ll check out my D rings and see what the torque is and post it

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Hokee Dina OP! I put my large torque bar on the 13mm nut as it’s the longest bar I have to reach that nut and turned it right up to 120 ft lbs and it wasn’t the nut that was starting to turn but the bolt part. I had a closer look and it looked to me to be one of those threaded studs that you have to hold onto the end to keep it from spinning and I then gave up.

That fricken 13mm nut, I swear is tac welded on cuz I wasn’t breaking its hold.

EDIT: I was trying to loosen the nut with the long torque bar up at 120 lbs just to clarify in case it sounded like I was tightening it?

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