Coolant consumption - course of action prior to notifying dealer

[chorky]

I know there are a few folks here who have dealt with coolant consumption. I didnt follow those threads super close but generally coolant only goes two places - it leaks, or it is consumed.

This past September or so I noticed what I thought was a little odd. The coolant level in the bottle is about an inch below the plastic mould seam. I have been watching it since to see if it is moving but haven't noticed anything really. However, referencing some past pictures it is pretty clear that it is lower than it used to be.

Here are a couple photos of it being higher, and even these are different, granted I think in the second pic the engine was running.

I will say that in the first photo above, the current level is even lower than that now. Again, I'll try and get an accurate up to date photo today. But I am mostly curious of any particular course of action in terms of talking with the dealer. My first thought was to request a top off to put it at the 'minimum' line. I just forgot to have them do that the last oil change.... But I also am not sure if coolant fill procedures these days have changed - ie, check level with engine cold, hot, running, etc... Years ago I just would do a pressure test. Although I never thrown any codes, the engine did get a hard workout this past summer, and my initial thought is it started drinking coolant on one of my long outings with steep uphill roads for many many miles. Yes, that is no excuse for a coolant problem, but I'm just doing a check with others here who have had coolant problems before I take the situation to the dealer. Hoping my eyes and brain are just playing tricks on me. ?

Sponsored

 

[Hootbro]

Here is my two cent currently on my third Gladiator. In every one of my Gladiators, I had to add about 8 oz or so after about a year in service because the fluid level had dropped from the high mark to the low mark on the reservoir.

In all cases, I have done multiple oil analysis and none came back to show any indication of coolant getting into the crankcase oil and thereby ruling out any head gasket issues.

On my 2020, I was chasing a subtle misfire issue and went to the point of even doing a pressure test of the coolant system and everything passed but it also needed to be top off for coolant with same 8 oz or so.

I have done the usual inspection of the coolant lines and hose, thermostat and water pump areas and found no leaks or weeping.

It is my opinion that these vehicles are not always perfect bled from the factory when first serviced. The coolant system at least for the gas vehicle engine vehicle is pretty extensive and intricate. I believe a lot of what is being seen is the transmission heat exchanger coolant system for the transmission fluid finally burping out over time. It runs pretty extensive downward and to the rear of the transmission before coming back up into the main body of the coolant system in the engine bay.

 

[chorky]

n that these vehicles are not always perfect bled from the factory when first serviced. The coolant system at least for the gas vehicle engine vehicle is pretty extensive and intricate. I believe a lot of what is being seen is the transmission heat exchanger coolant system for the transmission fluid finally burping out over time. It runs pretty extensive downward and to the rear of the transmission before coming back up into the main body of the coolant system i

That was my initial thought when I first noticed it a few months ago, which is why I didn't think anything of it or bring it up. Theres a lot going on in the cooling system so I dont doubt at all there was a few air bubbles. And I do intend to get it topped off just so it is easier to monitor over the next months - but wasn't sure if anyone went through any specific procedure or methodology.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Here is my two cent currently on my third Gladiator. In every one of my Gladiators, I had to add about 8 oz or so after about a year in service because the fluid level had dropped from the high mark to the low mark on the reservoir.

In all cases, I have done multiple oil analysis and none came back to show any indication of coolant getting into the crankcase oil and thereby ruling out any head gasket issues.

On my 2020, I was chasing a subtle misfire issue and went to the point of even doing a pressure test of the coolant system and everything passed but it also needed to be top off for coolant with same 8 oz or so.

I have done the usual inspection of the coolant lines and hose, thermostat and water pump areas and found not leaks or weeping.

It is my opinion that these vehicles are not always perfect bled from the factory when first serviced. The coolant system at least for the gas vehicle engine vehicle is pretty extensive and intricate. I believe a lot of what is being seen is the transmission heat exchanger coolant system for the transmission fluid finally burping out over time. It runs pretty extensive downward and to the rear of the transmission before coming back up into the main body of the coolant system in the engine bay.

That's why I drove my new ones each time I got one, a few weeks, 3 or 4 weeks of getting it really totally warmed up and not just warm and stop, but made sure everything including transmission temperature was up there for a period of time for a couple of cycles, then made a black mark on the reservoir.
My 2020 took about 8 ounces in the time I drove it - my first add was about 18 months after getting it.
So far, my 2022 is running really close to the black dot I made last year. It varies a lot with ambient temperature but the average seems to be really close to that dot.
I suppose one could attempt a vacuum bleed like with the steering system, but really, drive it to get it hot a couple of times, then mark where it settles down at when cooled down again.
They are bound to drop some over time - if you see a slight drop after a couple of years, it's not abnormal because although these are semi-sealed systems, they can't be totally sealed or something would blow. I think they are set to about 16 psi. So if it gets hot and builds pressure above that, that pressure is vented out and there's bound to be "humid air" going out, meaning some of the "coolant" is carried out with the vented pressure.
If you could totally seal it there should, in theory, never be any loss, but you can't, they must vent.
Those who live in hot climates and tow hard may see more evaporative loss than those who never really get them "really hot" or work them hard.
It should be minimal, though. Even my old stuff I very rarely ever have to add any. Usually with the older antifreezes, it was time to do a flush and refill before I needed to add.

Sponsored