Cracked both rear sway bar end link mounts. Back plate? Weld?

[WILDHOBO]

Wow! well that's interesting... how did hat even happen? Maybe the bracket was already fatigued? Did you hit a rock on the bottom side of the link?

The metalcloak brace will fix it.

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[49Gramps]

The metalcloak brace will fix it.

The Metalcloak brace only supports the original mounting point for the link, the AEV bracket drops the mounting point about 1 1/2" lower. I'm thinking of just going Clayton links in the original mounting point, keeping the AEV bracket (cut off the ragged edge) for the added thickness at that weak point.

 

[chorky]

The Metalcloak brace only supports the original mounting point for the link, the AEV bracket drops the mounting point about 1 1/2" lower. I'm thinking of just going Clayton links in the original mounting point, keeping the AEV bracket (cut off the ragged edge) for the added thickness at that weak point.

You could do longer arms if you wanted metalcloak. I would suggest calling AEV - they might warranty it. It's only a 20 dollar part I bet anyway. Mine have been just fine, although I have not done any hard core 4x4 trails yet. Personally I'm working to figure a way to make an electrical rear sway disco rather than opt for any of the other options.

 

[49Gramps]

You could do longer arms if you wanted metalcloak. I would suggest calling AEV - they might warranty it. It's only a 20 dollar part I bet anyway. Mine have been just fine, although I have not done any hard core 4x4 trails yet. Personally I'm working to figure a way to make an electrical rear sway disco rather than opt for any of the other options.

I do plan on calling AEV in the morning. Part of the bracket moves the brake line and sensor wires closer to the axle to compensate for the lift. I'm thinking a heavier duty set-up would be preferable, as I do moderate wheeling.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You could do longer arms if you wanted metalcloak. I would suggest calling AEV - they might warranty it. It's only a 20 dollar part I bet anyway. Mine have been just fine, although I have not done any hard core 4x4 trails yet. Personally I'm working to figure a way to make an electrical rear sway disco rather than opt for any of the other options.

Disconnecting the rear is a bit dangerous on real trails. You lose a lot of stability in off camber situations, especially on off camber climbs. Your risk of tip over increases. My rear will always stay connected. There a several discussions about this. One shows the difference in stability using a controlled articulation ramp test.

 

[chorky]

Disconnecting the rear is a bit dangerous on real trails. You lose a lot of stability in off camber situations, especially on off camber climbs. Your risk of tip over increases. My rear will always stay connected. There a several discussions about this. One shows the difference in stability using a controlled articulation ramp test.

yeah I know. But I dont do any off road stuff here. The only dirt roads we have are all 2wd traversable. It's more about comfort than anything else. If I did legit off road, I would not disconnect it especially if off camber.

 

[WILDHOBO]

yeah I know. But I dont do any off road stuff here. The only dirt roads we have are all 2wd traversable. It's more about comfort than anything else. If I did legit off road, I would not disconnect it especially if off camber.

You know what you’re doing then.

 

[49Gramps]

I noticed also that the end of the link was slightly egg-shaped, so I just ordered a pair of links and a pair of brackets. With the wheeling that I do, I figured that will give me a spare set for when it happens again....

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