Dealership Battery Replacement Cost?

[Mr._Bill]

Correct, just clip on the metal posts and charge it.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Adventures in batteries continues. I bought a couple batteries today and am charging them up, as the forum has recommended, before dropping them in. I've learned a bit about battery chargers/maintainers as well as multimeters! So that's something.

The solar panel experiment on the original batteries might have helped some but at the end of it all the voltage won't go above 12.2 after sitting for a bit.

I'll hopefully have these charged up by the weekend and get to replacing them. I am going to go in through the top for the auxiliary battery. It's just going to be easier to do the work in my apartment parking as I can just close the hood if I need to walk away for a bit and keep it low key.

I'm making the assumption that I can charge the auxiliary battery without the posts by clipping on to the blocks surrounding the post threading? I won't be pulling my old batteries until it's time to do the swap so don't have access to the existing posts on the original aux.

Unless the new batteries are very dead, extremely low, a good charger putting out 10 to 20 amps should charge a battery overnight.
I've had it take a full day to do both of mine in the vehicle, still connected in parallel.
A small charger is going to take longer. It should go through roughly 4 phases, including one at constant voltage and another at constant amperage.

 

[MattK]

Unless the new batteries are very dead, extremely low, a good charger putting out 10 to 20 amps should charge a battery overnight.
I've had it take a full day to do both of mine in the vehicle, still connected in parallel.
A small charger is going to take longer. It should go through roughly 4 phases, including one at constant voltage and another at constant amperage.

I have the Noco 10amp charger and it's set to AGM. Its indicator is pulsing green which means the battery is or is near 100% charge. It will go solid once it's completed. As soon as I connected the charger to it the new H7 battery it went fairly quickly up to pulsing green so it's in a pretty good state.

I'm a little more concerned about the new H14 aux as it has a build date of 08/23 but the multimeter has it at 12.6. Last one they had.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I have the Noco 10amp charger and it's set to AGM. Its indicator is pulsing green which means the battery is or is near 100% charge. It will go solid once it's completed. As soon as I connected the charger to it the new H7 battery it went fairly quickly up to pulsing green so it's in a pretty good state.

I'm a little more concerned about the new H14 aux as it has a build date of 08/23 but the multimeter has it at 12.6. Last one they had.

Just keep them on the charger until the light is solid. It takes a few days sometimes with my NOCO charger. I figure it’s just cause of all the phases it goes through.

 

[Mr._Bill]

That's typical for sitting on the shelf that long. It should be okay. Be sure to keep the receipt inside to guard against heat fade, or make a copy of it. If you don't have the receipt, they use manufacture date for warranty.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just keep them on the charger until the light is solid. It takes a few days sometimes with my NOCO charger. I figure it’s just cause of all the phases it goes through.

I never took into account he's using a 10 and I use a 20..........still, I can start it early morning and it's not done until after dark at times.

 

[MattK]

EDIT: Found some info: this looks to be the part number from Mopar:

STUD. Double Ended. Negative, Positive.
Part Number: 06512377AA

https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com...ubicon-36L-V6-AT-4WD/12291659/06512377aa.html

===========
So, the main H7 battery is now fully charged and the Noco 10 went into maintenance mode so it’s done. However the AUX14 I tried putting the clamps on the blocks around where the + and - posts would be but it’s not getting a good reading. What bolt size do I need to go buy to use the posts? I need to leave the current AUX battery alone so I can drive until the new one is fully charged. Can these even be purchased? I’m striking out on my google-fu for this particular issue.

 

[Mr._Bill]

EDIT: Found some info: this looks to be the part number from Mopar:

STUD. Double Ended. Negative, Positive.
Part Number: 06512377AA

https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com...ubicon-36L-V6-AT-4WD/12291659/06512377aa.html

===========
So, the main H7 battery is now fully charged and the Noco 10 went into maintenance mode so it’s done. However the AUX14 I tried putting the clamps on the blocks around where the + and - posts would be but it’s not getting a good reading. What bolt size do I need to go buy to use the posts? I need to leave the current AUX battery alone so I can drive until the new one is fully charged. Can these even be purchased? I’m striking out on my google-fu for this particular issue.

You don't need bolts in the posts to charge the battery. It does take some effort to get the clamps attached in a good position. You can insert any bolt with the correct thread size and pattern to attach to for charging. I suppose that not all chargers will have clamps that open wide enough to work easily.

They are barely on there, but this works for me.

 

[MattK]

You don't need bolts in the posts to charge the battery. It does take some effort to get the clamps attached in a good position. You can insert any bolt with the correct thread size and pattern to attach to for charging. I suppose that not all chargers will have clamps that open wide enough to work easily.

Thanks for the late night reply @Mr._Bill. I was able to get the clamps on in a position where the battery registered to the Noco 10 charger. It shows fully charged and running in maintenance mode but I’ll let it go overnight. The multimeter had it at 12.6 volts before I hooked it up.

 

[MattK]

I just wanted to wrap this up and share my replacement of the auxiliary and starter batteries. Thanks to all who have commented and shared their knowledge.

EDIT: when I posted this the forum said this is a "banned site" regarding the video I linked so I removed the link to the video.

I used the [Banned Site] video for replacing batteries as a reference as I went through the fuse box (I wish I owned a cordless ratchet tool).

I had a few modifications to it based on forum feedback and having to manage my winch and air compressor wiring/connections.

I removed the starter battery and disassembled the negative wiring to reset the IBS.

I used some plastic bottles over each negative wire and the positive wire bundle. Thanks to @Mr._Bill for the suggestions. The negative wires were sparking a little when touching each other briefly while moving cables around until I could get the bottles on them.

I removed the IBS completely and let it sit all by its lonesome while I continued on.

Removed screws from fuse box and lifted fuse box but all the connectors came with it. This took a bit of time to get them disconnected from underneath but not too bad. Just used a screw driver for leverage to remove them from the connections. Just went easy.

Once the fuse box connectors were removed I took note of how they are positioned and the wiring is ran:

Groomed the wiring out of the way and lifted the fuse box up and out of the way with a bungie cord.

Removed the auxiliary battery cover to gain access to the battery itself.

You're now able to get at the auxiliary battery.

Remove the battery connections and your system is finally dead. From here on out it's just reversing this process to complete the replacement of both batteries!

I think more people like the fender access method for replacing the aux but I didn't mind this way really. I cleaned all the parts and engine bay as I went as well.

Thanks for all the help! This job took me about two hours with cleaning stuff as I went and random apartment neighbors stopping by to chat.

 

[MattK]

One more curiosity. On my way to Overland Expo West today I noticed the battery voltage meter in the truck isn’t showing the typical 14.something volts when the engine is running. It’s in the 12.6 - 12.7 range. I assume if something was wrong my batteries would have died on the ~500 miles here.

is this due to the IBS reset still trying to figure things out?

 

[Mr._Bill]

That's about normal for fully charged batteries. You should see it jump to 13.x or 14.x when it first starts, but then drop back down to the 12.8 range. The IBS will take a little time to learn. Keep an eye on it, but don't get too worried as long as everything appears to be working like it should.

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