Death Wobble, DW, Death Wobble, DW, Death Wobble, Shimmy, Wander, Drift, Bump Steer

[Free2roam]

When I had my Clayton Overland 2.5 installed also 21 diesel it ran fine for 7k miles then it started. Although I had -6 offset and stock steering. With Rubicon take off tires. I had mine I believe adjusted to 6° I'll have to check when I get home. But I did a double (redundant) on the steering box. I went metalcloak and synergy. Then it still never went away. Obviously not the issue. Checked ball joints no play. Ended up doing a Fusion 4x4 steering upgrade which so far has been rock solid basically problem solved. I would definitely get the upper control arms from Clayton. If you are on stock steering then yes on the toe out. So I've been told by Ryan at Vegas 4X4. Once you go aftermarket he suggested toe in. If you want pics it will have to be later.

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[Midwestracer]

When I had my Clayton Overland 2.5 installed also 21 diesel it ran fine for 7k miles then it started. Although I had -6 offset and stock steering. With Rubicon take off tires. I had mine I believe adjusted to 6° I'll have to check when I get home. But I did a double (redundant) on the steering box. I went metalcloak and synergy. Then it still never went away. Obviously not the issue. Checked ball joints no play. Ended up doing a Fusion 4x4 steering upgrade which so far has been rock solid basically problem solved. I would definitely get the upper control arms from Clayton. If you are on stock steering then yes on the toe out. So I've been told by Ryan at Vegas 4X4. Once you go aftermarket he suggested toe in. If you want pics it will have to be later.

it has the clayton upper control arms but cant get 6 degrees of caster with them shortened all the way so thinking add lower clayton arms to get some WB and caster but want to run through the other checks first. never had this problem before the lift same tires.

 

[Free2roam]

it has the clayton upper control arms but cant get 6 degrees of caster with them shortened all the way so thinking add lower clayton arms to get some WB and caster but want to run through the other checks first. never had this problem before the lift same tires.

Sorry missed that part. I meant the LCA and as far as torque goes check out post #1 in this thread. Gives you everything you need I believe.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Add the ball joints to your checklist. The 37's may have been wearing them for some time before the lift. Are you running stock wheels and no spacers? More poke can certainly contribute to the issue.
You're off to a decent start, but there really are no magic bullets or shortcuts here. You have to check everything.
If everything else pans out OK, and you can't nail down the issue, I'd go for a remount and balance, a slight toe out, and the Metalcloak sector shaft brace.
Geometry correction brackets would give you more positive caster angle too, but that's more about wander and drift than it is about DW.

How is the long term tire wear with toe out?

 

[Lunentucker]

How is the long term tire wear with toe out?

Same as it is with the toe slightly in.

 

[Midwestracer]

well had my son steering it back and forth and see no obvious play movement ect. Im not new to DW had it on a old Cherokee and was solved with a HD track bar going to put my stock wheels and tires on it and see how it does i got the 37s about a month ago on wheels used so will take them and get them balanced they where fine at stock height but maybe the lift pushed it over.
also retorqued everything with the ft lbs and rotation i found on here what a pain but i have a wrench that does that luckily. Ordered the mopar lift lower control arms hopiing i can get the caster to 6- 6.5 with them going to check the toe tonight if i get time TY all for the help

 

[Dougstdig]

(2021 diesel)OK before making my own post figured id just jump in here got the wonderful DW after installing 2.5 clayton ride right diesel specific lift +.75 front spacer to level out for winch and bumper. This lift only has upper control arms i have them shortened all the way and am getting i believe 5 positive caster caster checked on flat spots front of diff with digital angle finder reading 91-90.9 i cannot adjust the arms shorter to get to 90 which i understand to be 6 degrees positive caster. (thinking about buying adjustable lower arms or the Mopar lift arms)
things i have checked: broke all control arms/track bar bolts loose and retorqued lowers to 190ft lbs uppers 80ft lbs track bar upgraded to grade 8 9/16 bolts and torqued to 130ft lbs.
Falcon 2.1 shocks set to firm 37 bfg all terrains that where on the jeep before lift and no problems.
Things I'm going to check steering box bolts and pitman arm nut.
Any tips from here to get this under control jeep has 14k miles on it btw

I have the Diesel overland 2.5 kit. No wheel spacers on -6mm offset wheels. Rides like it’s on rails & solid. Fox shocks…not harsh or too bouncy.

 

[Free2roam]

I have the Diesel overland 2.5 kit. No wheel spacers on -6mm offset wheels. Rides like it’s on rails & solid. Fox shocks…not harsh or too bouncy.

By any chance are they the Icon Rebound Pros? Stock steering? I have the same exact lift.

 

[Dougstdig]

By any chance are they the Icon Rebound Pros? Stock steering? I have the same exact lift.

Yep’r

 

[Free2roam]

Yep’r

I've got same exact setup except I run the Rubicon take off tires.
You on stock steering still?

 

[Midwestracer]

 

[Dougstdig]

I've got same exact setup except I run the Rubicon take off tires.
You on stock steering still?

Yes to the stock steering except for the Clayton adjustable track bar that came with a kit. When I go to change the steering, I’m gonna take a look at Clayton‘s stirring stabilizer bracket so I can get it above the axle tub or above the bottom of the axle tape however high it goes.

A buddy of mine just got the steer smarts steering components for his JL, but they’ve been sitting in a shop for about a month because there’s just too much other stuff to do right now, but I’m anxious to see them. I haven’t decided on which direction I’m gonna go with that yet.

below our photos, post left with stock Rubi wheels and tires. It took something just over a month to get the wheels and tires in.

 

[Free2roam]

Yes to the stock steering except for the Clayton adjustable track bar that came with a kit. When I go to change the steering, I’m gonna take a look at Clayton‘s stirring stabilizer bracket so I can get it above the axle tub or above the bottom of the axle tape however high it goes.

A buddy of mine just got the steer smarts steering components for his JL, but they’ve been sitting in a shop for about a month because there’s just too much other stuff to do right now, but I’m anxious to see them. I haven’t decided on which direction I’m gonna go with that yet.

below our photos, post left with stock Rubi wheels and tires. It took something just over a month to get the wheels and tires in.

Yeah the Rubicon fenders make those tires look small. Not so bad on a Sport S. I ended going Fusion 4x4 steering upgrade which has been rock solid. Next upgrade may be the Metalcloak baller joints.

 

[Midwestracer]

ok so today i finally got somewhere after check and rechecking every part and retorquing everything it was still there i got one of those laser measurement tools and checked my toe and it was dam near 0 +/- .01 so i added positive toe. I marked the tie rod adjuster with paint marker and went 1.5 turns in i know this is drastic took if for test drive down road that always give me death wobble and nothing, but did have tire screeching when turning, so i backed off toe 1/4 at time till death wobble came back then went back 1/4 and its set

 

[Lunentucker]

ok so today i finally got somewhere after check and rechecking every part and retorquing everything it was still there i got one of those laser measurement tools and checked my toe and it was dam near 0 +/- .01 so i added positive toe. I marked the tie rod adjuster with paint marker and went 1.5 turns in i know this is drastic took if for test drive down road that always give me death wobble and nothing, but did have tire screeching when turning, so i backed off toe 1/4 at time till death wobble came back then went back 1/4 and its set

That's a good bandaid, but it's not a root cause fix. Something is still awry in the steering or suspension. Nice logic and work though.

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