Drive Shaft Alignment

[DocMike]

Was crawling under my JT looking at a few issues.... Noticed my driveline. It's not straight. Is this normal?
It looks like someone moved this bracket. See the white paint and the break in it?

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[Hootbro]

Your center support bearing bracket did not move. Just a skip of the quality inspector paint pen when they marked it.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Having replaced my driveshaft, I can confidently say that there is a bit of play between the bolt diameter and the holes in the bracket. The CV joints are designed to handle small vertical and horizontal angles, so you’re not damaging anything. But I prefer my driveshaft to have as much clearance from the gas tank skid as possible. This is important when stuffing the passenger rear tire. It gets pretty close with that 4” driveshaft. With your lift height, I’d add a carrier bearing spacer (recommended for lifts over 2” by Dana), and before tightening the bolts position the bracket as far to driver as possible. It’s only got about an 1/8” of play, but when I had the stock driveshaft I was easily able to get the driveshaft within an 1/8” of the gas tank skid with full articulation. I zoomed into your bracket picture and can see a circle where tue flange bolt used to be, indicating that it probably has moved a bit. The torque spec is pretty low (25 ft lbs if I remember correctly) on those bolts, so it would be easy to have one loosen a bit with heavy off roading.

 

[Jaxmax]

I agree with Summitdan, looks like it has moved towards passenger side by the mark by bolt and putting on a drive shaft spacer at same time is cheap insurance, is driveshaft rubbed at all? Kudos for checking after that adventure you had recently…..Jack

 

[WILDHOBO]

 

[WILDHOBO]

Old picture. Same spacer, but OE driveshaft.

 

[WILDHOBO]

with new shaft.

 

[Jaxmax]

Dan quick question why not go one piece driveshaft, less clearance?….Jack

 

[WILDHOBO]

Less clearance and I wanted to maintain the perfect driveline angle into the transfer case. This one is from Dana spicer. It’s also 100% bolt on with no yoke changes. 3” OD steel and rated for up to a 6.5” lift. The rear joint is 1350 to the axle. It handled the rubicon trail with zero issues, and I can drive 80mph on the interstate with zero vibration issues. Not many people seem to have them, but I’m really happy with the choice. It’s also an inch smaller diameter than stock, so better clearance with the gas tank skid.

 

[NewGladdyOWNR]

Mine is like this as well. Slight angle to the right (drivers side) if you were looking at from underneath the vehicle. I added the rock jock bearing spacer but it was angled before the install too. If it’s not like this from the factory my only guess is my rear axle is off to the right (looking towards the rear) by less than a half inch.

 

[DocMike]

Good to know! Been trying to clean up some issues. I am re torquing and I think my rear springs have become un clocked. Getting some noise from them. Prepping for the axle shafts, Reid knuckles etc...

 

[DocMike]

Dropping this in tomorrow when I finish my ball joints and Reid knuckles.

 

[DocMike]

Part of my Sunday work.

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