Just curious: did you have to finance or lease through dealer? Also what are the dealer's fees?
As of the December, it was a 499 doc fee plus TT&T. I had originally planned on financing but ended up leasing for personal reasons, but it made no difference to them. The sales price never changed. He gives a 4% discount regardless. 1% for Chrysler capital, and 1% for tread lightly. Black Friday he offered an additional 1% so maybe there’s more wiggle room or maybe a sale coming up?
Just asking because I found similar dealers, but their doc fee negated about 1 - 2% of the discount, and their finance rates were marked-up to negate another 2-3% of the below invoice discount.
Seriously... I test drove at Westgate, only because of the HUGE inventory selection. I was merely doing color and configuration research. But that WAS IT! Do yourself a favor and go through TriCity in Eden.
Oh... I forgot to mention Westgate has a mandatory $199 locking lugnut charge and $699 doc fee. Just fyi...
I sent Travis a list of what I was looking for and he sent me a detailed email showing all the charges and sales prices. I’m out of town so I can’t look at my paperwork, but I’m rereading emails and he was super upfront about everything long before I even ordered. Once I paid my deposit, the numbers were locked in. Very transparent process overall.
That's where a lot of them get you. Must finance through one of their lenders. Had one dealer tell me I HAD to use Chrysler Finance (is it still called that?) to get an extra $2000 rebate. This was before the recent rebate even existed. Then they'll hold a point or 2 on your rate and make the money back. I made the mistake of letting the dealer find my financing after USAA came back with a higher rate than expected. Found out after the fact they held a point after I asked the finance guy point blank how much he was holding. He lied. I refinanced with Navy Fed the next day. I don't have a problem with someone making money, but don't flippin lie to me!This went along with the bill of sale. So only 4% reflected there.
These are good points and a sophisticated buyer can work this out in advance and find the best deal that works for them. Sometimes the rebate is worth more than a slight increase in APR, but you have to work the numbers to figure that out. If you have your own, good financing already it is worth playing both sides. That is what I just did. I got an extra $1500 off to use the dealer’s financing, which was SunTrust, with zero strings. No early payback penalty. Well, just six days after purchase they are getting a check from USAA refinancing and saving me another $1750 in interest if I take the full term to pay the loan off. I gave SunTrust a chance to match USAA and they couldn’t/didn’t want to and now they don’t have the loan anymore.
