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First time ever replacing pads and rotors. Did not go well...

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XraytecH

XraytecH

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I’m not sure I’ve seen a better representation of single use hardware! I have owned a few cars that require new head bolts when replacing due to high compression and stretch. Amazing the forces these components undergo.

I’m getting close to the 60k mile mark and brakes are likely in the near future for me.
Get new fastener hardware for sure.
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XraytecH

XraytecH

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So the new bolt and factory original are identical.
I'd double-check the torque wrench. I'd also use some Loctite knowing the history with these.

BTW - the one on the right is no longer class 10.9 - it looks more like no class.

Torque wrench is fine. I think I just used the wrong torque setting. What was it 92 vs 72 or something like that? And these seem to be single used bolts.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I’m not sure I’ve seen a better representation of single use hardware! I have owned a few cars that require new head bolts when replacing due to high compression and stretch. Amazing the forces these components undergo.

I’m getting close to the 60k mile mark and brakes are likely in the near future for me.
Different stresses on head bolts compared to these. The torque on these shouldn't be so high as to be a problem.
I've not taken the brakes apart on my JT at this point, but is there a reason to not remove the caliper from the bracket and leave the bracket in place?
That's generally how disk brakes are done - remove the caliper, leave the bracket in place, and use new hardware to mount the caliper.
 
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XraytecH

XraytecH

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Different stresses on head bolts compared to these. The torque on these shouldn't be so high as to be a problem.
I've not taken the brakes apart on my JT at this point, but is there a reason to not remove the caliper from the bracket and leave the bracket in place?
That's generally how disk brakes are done - remove the caliper, leave the bracket in place, and use new hardware to mount the caliper.
To replace the pads you have to remove the caliper. To replace the rotor you have to remove the caliper and the bracket.
 

FitfulGoat

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Different stresses on head bolts compared to these. The torque on these shouldn't be so high as to be a problem.
I've not taken the brakes apart on my JT at this point, but is there a reason to not remove the caliper from the bracket and leave the bracket in place?
That's generally how disk brakes are done - remove the caliper, leave the bracket in place, and use new hardware to mount the caliper.
Agreed, different stresses but still a great visual. Not sure on the brakes for the JT as I’ve not touched them yet but generally speaking yes, I’ve always removed the caliper to do disc brakes. That was generally the only way to get the piston tool in place for many makes/models anyways.
 

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I wish I could tell you more.
I think 80 ft pounds with blue loctite would be my move.
I did my fronts recently. Parts for the rear arrive on Wednesday. I used common sense, having broken things like this in the past. But I added orange thread locker.

Edit: And I check mine when I rotate tires proactively.
 

Minty JL

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Got a new set of bolts for the front and rear going with these torque specs.
The in doubt throw some loctite on em and call it a day
 

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The in doubt throw some loctite on em and call it a day
Thats my plan. I have two replacement bolt coming just in case something catastrophic happens… Twice… Otherwise it’s just going to be locktite out and go.
 

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Orange is a nice compromise. Stronger than blue, but will come out with hand tools.
 

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Minty JL

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Orange is a nice compromise. Stronger than blue, but will come out with hand tools.
Which reminds me, I need to do a resupply on blue
 

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Minty JL

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What pads are y'all using?
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