Flashing engine warning light

[ShadowsPapa]

Owners who experience these random misfires, what kind of octane gasoline do you guys run?

That makes no difference.
Octane has nothing to do with misfires. Bad info if anyone says it does. Octane can lead to a ping - but not a misfire. Higher octane fuel simply resists self-ignition. There's really pretty much nothing else to it. I've spent years studying octane and detonation and pre-ignition. You can't fix misfires with a different octane.

I've had a Jeep with 3.6 do the misfire thing - it disappeared on its own but I took the logs to the dealer and they resolved it by replacing spark plugs.
There is no way to know exactly what's going on. There are "best chances", but no one can say "a misfire is always and will never go away". That simply isn't true.
They usually don't go away - but I have seen them go away.
With the gladiator - it's all too often a cam/rocker issue.

Yes, P0300 is multiple cylinder misfire.
If there's a number at the end instead of 0 it means a misfire for that specific cylinder - such as P0301 would be misfire for cylinder 1.

Misfires do not always set the light or store a code!
If it does, it's not transient and the PCM has decided it's consistent. at least at that time.

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[Snook]

That makes no difference.
Octane has nothing to do with misfires. Bad info if anyone says it does. Octane can lead to a ping - but not a misfire. Higher octane fuel simply resists self-ignition. There's really pretty much nothing else to it. I've spent years studying octane and detonation and pre-ignition. You can't fix misfires with a different octane.

I've had a Jeep with 3.6 do the misfire thing - it disappeared on its own but I took the logs to the dealer and they resolved it by replacing spark plugs.
There is no way to know exactly what's going on. There are "best chances", but no one can say "a misfire is always and will never go away". That simply isn't true.
They usually don't go away - but I have seen them go away.
With the gladiator - it's all too often a cam/rocker issue.

Yes, P0300 is multiple cylinder misfire.
If there's a number at the end instead of 0 it means a misfire for that specific cylinder - such as P0301 would be misfire for cylinder 1.

Misfires do not always set the light or store a code!
If it does, it's not transient and the PCM has decided it's consistent. at least at that time.

mine was a 3rd cylinder misfire. But they would have had to keep the Jeep and try to get it to happen again to see what’s is causing it. They said it may not happen again. So far since I left the dealership after they cleared the code I have had no issue. Heading back to Atlanta on Friday, a 600+ mile trip.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

mine was a 3rd cylinder misfire. But they would have had to keep the Jeep and try to get it to happen again to see what’s is causing it. They said it may not happen again. So far since I left the dealership after they cleared the code I have had no issue. Heading back to Atlanta on Friday, a 600+ mile trip.

You could try some things to try to force it - such as going up a hill (for a bit of a load) push it until you get over 2800 -3,000 RPM and keep it humming and loaded.
Going into the higher RPM will force the rockers to change modes.
Keeping a load on it at higher RPM will force the ignition system to work harder - takes a bit more to light the charge under a heavy load.

If it's due to cam/rocker issues, the trouble will still be there, but may not show up unless the engine is taxed some. If it is, the damage is already done - you can't save it by not driving it.
There have been issues with cams and/or rockers on the left bank, but the majority seem to be right bank, odd numbers - 1, 3 and 5.
It just seems to me that number 3 is among the most common. If my recollections are correct, it might make sense as the front cylinder, number 1, lift is controlled by the VVL solenoid at the front of the right head, and 3 and 5 intake rockers are managed by the solenoid at the rear of the head. It might just make sense.

 

[Snook]

You could try some things to try to force it - such as going up a hill (for a bit of a load) push it until you get over 2800 -3,000 RPM and keep it humming and loaded.
Going into the higher RPM will force the rockers to change modes.
Keeping a load on it at higher RPM will force the ignition system to work harder - takes a bit more to light the charge under a heavy load.

If it's due to cam/rocker issues, the trouble will still be there, but may not show up unless the engine is taxed some. If it is, the damage is already done - you can't save it by not driving it.
There have been issues with cams and/or rockers on the left bank, but the majority seem to be right bank, odd numbers - 1, 3 and 5.
It just seems to me that number 3 is among the most common. If my recollections are correct, it might make sense as the front cylinder, number 1, lift is controlled by the VVL solenoid at the front of the right head, and 3 and 5 intake rockers are managed by the solenoid at the rear of the head. It might just make sense.

interesting, when the light came on I was just slowly pulling out of a parking lot, no tax on the engine at all, the light only flashed for a short period and went off. When we got back to where we were staying I located a dealer (about 15 miles away) and drove it down there. the light came on (not flashing) and stayed on until we got down there. Jeep ran fine. No issues since they cleared that code. Drove it today, towing my boat with no issue.

 

[Lunentucker]

You could try some things to try to force it - such as going up a hill (for a bit of a load) push it until you get over 2800 -3,000 RPM and keep it humming and loaded.
Going into the higher RPM will force the rockers to change modes.
Keeping a load on it at higher RPM will force the ignition system to work harder - takes a bit more to light the charge under a heavy load.

If it's due to cam/rocker issues, the trouble will still be there, but may not show up unless the engine is taxed some. If it is, the damage is already done - you can't save it by not driving it.
There have been issues with cams and/or rockers on the left bank, but the majority seem to be right bank, odd numbers - 1, 3 and 5.
It just seems to me that number 3 is among the most common. If my recollections are correct, it might make sense as the front cylinder, number 1, lift is controlled by the VVL solenoid at the front of the right head, and 3 and 5 intake rockers are managed by the solenoid at the rear of the head. It might just make sense.

That makes perfect sense.
I'll schedule my star case eventually, but I've got a feeling they're going to take quite a bit of convincing before they start digging that deep.
I'm getting my oil analysis done before I schedule it as well.
I know they'll likely ignore that, but at least I will know for my own peace of mind.
They say my build was after the cam tsb but I'm not convinced that they've got all of the bad cams covered.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm getting my oil analysis done before I schedule it as well.
I know they'll likely ignore that, but at least I will know for my own peace of mind.
They say my build was after the cam tsb but I'm not convinced that they've got all of the bad cams covered.

Smart move - oil analysis. I wouldn't ordinarily do it on an engine that is performing perfectly, or I've had great history with - but these things almost beg that process being done.
I would look forward to results. Doesn't matter if they ignore it - well, to me it would piss me off LOL, but you'll know.
I can relate to the TSB dates - not a perfect example, but I had a WJ until last spring - and months before I sold it, it kicked up the CEL. I ran the code - I think it was #2 O2 sensor heater was bad. Odd, it was running great, even when cold. I did the digging I normally do - spent hours on it and ran across a TSB or two on that very issue. It was a problem with the PCM with certain serial numbers and made between certain dates. Some circumstances would cause it to kick that code even with a good O2 sensor in that spot (there were 4 on that 4,0)
I was just ready to order the sensor, had the tool already, and decided to clear the code. There was still some cold weather left.
Months later it was still fine, even through our cold spring. Even the guy who bought it never had a problem with it. The PCM was outside of the dates and serial numbers.......... but.......... MAYBE the TSB was based on KNOWN reports or issues???
For cams, I would hope it would be based on revisions and revision dates - you know, the AA, AB, AC, BA numbers.....
Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out. Especially since I'm jumping from safe ground and a totally stable engine into the unknown with a 2022 model if it ever gets built HA.

 

[Snook]

That makes perfect sense.
I'll schedule my star case eventually, but I've got a feeling they're going to take quite a bit of convincing before they start digging that deep.
I'm getting my oil analysis done before I schedule it as well.
I know they'll likely ignore that, but at least I will know for my own peace of mind.
They say my build was after the cam tsb but I'm not convinced that they've got all of the bad cams covered.

what’s a star case? Also, do you use your Gladiator to tow anything?

 

[Lunentucker]

what’s a star case? Also, do you use your Gladiator to tow anything?

No towing.
A star case will have the local technician work in tandem with a higher level technician from Jeep. The local guy will provide the remote tech with information and do what the higher level technician instructs him to do.
It takes all day because they only work when the remote tech is available, and the local tech has to wait for them to contact him to get started.

 

[Snook]

If it's due to cam/rocker issues, the trouble will still be there, but may not show up unless the engine is taxed some. If it is, the damage is already done - you can't save it by not driving it.

is that something that I caused Or is it a factory flaw? I haven’t driven the vehicle that much except on two long trips (including the one I’m on now) When cruising on the highway towing my boat, at 65mph the rpms are only at 2k.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

is that something that I caused Or is it a factory flaw? I haven’t driven the vehicle that much except on two long trips (including the one I’m on now) When cruising on the highway towing my boat, at 65mph the rpms are only at 2k.

Definitely not you. There have been issues with the cams and rockers in these. Not all, but enough it's something to be aware of and watch out for.
There have been cases of the wrong lash adjusters installed in the wrong holes - exhaust where intake belonged, etc. and since the oil for switching between low lift and high lift on the intake valves goes through the lash adjusters to get to the rockers - that's a big deal.

 

[Snook]

Definitely not you. There have been issues with the cams and rockers in these. Not all, but enough it's something to be aware of and watch out for.
There have been cases of the wrong lash adjusters installed in the wrong holes - exhaust where intake belonged, etc. and since the oil for switching between low lift and high lift on the intake valves goes through the lash adjusters to get to the rockers - that's a big deal.

one of the interesting things that I’ve had happen is under heavy acceleration it will get to 3k or sometimes 4K and it appears not to want to shift. If I let off the gas it will shift down to about 2k and stay there til about 70 mph. Usually that only happens when towing my boat. I try to keep it around 2k rpm while up to speed, that helps my gas mileage.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

one of the interesting things that I’ve had happen is under heavy acceleration it will get to 3k or sometimes 4K and it appears not to want to shift. If I let off the gas it will shift down to about 2k and stay there til about 70 mph. Usually that only happens when towing my boat. I try to keep it around 2k rpm while up to speed, that helps my gas mileage.

Normal towing mode. I let mine decide and got better mpg than I could have gotten otherwise. It wanted to keep mine up in the upper 20s at times, even in the 3,300 range. It only did lower on the flats (few and far between on I80 east of me)
Remember, the power and torque is up there a little bit. These have decent torque in the lower areas, but they are made to make power - and kick into high intake valve lift mode only above 2800 RPM. Otherwise, they are in economy mode, cruise mode.

I let mine do its thing and blew my Silverado away in mpg and how it handled hills. 13.9 towing 5,000 pounds on I80 east where the grades - as our own DOT says it - 3.9% for 1800', others at 3.4 as I recall and a number of widely scattered 3% grades of some length.
It's one reason you gotta be patient because the truck drivers get side-by-side and hit those grades and you ain't going anywhere very fast.

 

[WetWilly]

Smart move - oil analysis. I wouldn't ordinarily do it on an engine that is performing perfectly, or I've had great history with - but these things almost beg that process being done.
I would look forward to results. Doesn't matter if they ignore it - well, to me it would piss me off LOL, but you'll know.
I can relate to the TSB dates - not a perfect example, but I had a WJ until last spring - and months before I sold it, it kicked up the CEL. I ran the code - I think it was #2 O2 sensor heater was bad. Odd, it was running great, even when cold. I did the digging I normally do - spent hours on it and ran across a TSB or two on that very issue. It was a problem with the PCM with certain serial numbers and made between certain dates. Some circumstances would cause it to kick that code even with a good O2 sensor in that spot (there were 4 on that 4,0)
I was just ready to order the sensor, had the tool already, and decided to clear the code. There was still some cold weather left.
Months later it was still fine, even through our cold spring. Even the guy who bought it never had a problem with it. The PCM was outside of the dates and serial numbers.......... but.......... MAYBE the TSB was based on KNOWN reports or issues???
For cams, I would hope it would be based on revisions and revision dates - you know, the AA, AB, AC, BA numbers.....
Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out. Especially since I'm jumping from safe ground and a totally stable engine into the unknown with a 2022 model if it ever gets built HA.

I don't know as the 2022 models are totally free of the issue. My 2022 has already had one flash at a little over a thousand miles on it, without any sort of running issue or problems. It did it on a startup, and has not done it since. It was a P0300

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I don't know as the 2022 models are totally free of the issue. My 2022 has already had one flash at a little over a thousand miles on it, without any sort of running issue or problems. It did it on a startup, and has not done it since. It was a P0300

That's really the only thing that caused me to pause or hesitate once I found I could meet my $$ goals on a trade - do I really want to trade a trouble-free engine, a QUIET engine with no rattle, no tick, no CEL, no misfires in over 26,000 miles and 30 months, or.............
I guess I'll find out of the pros really DO outweigh the possible cons in a few months.

 

[Snook]

Normal towing mode. I let mine decide and got better mpg than I could have gotten otherwise. It wanted to keep mine up in the upper 20s at times, even in the 3,300 range. It only did lower on the flats (few and far between on I80 east of me)
Remember, the power and torque is up there a little bit. These have decent torque in the lower areas, but they are made to make power - and kick into high intake valve lift mode only above 2800 RPM. Otherwise, they are in economy mode, cruise mode.

I let mine do its thing and blew my Silverado away in mpg and how it handled hills. 13.9 towing 5,000 pounds on I80 east where the grades - as our own DOT says it - 3.9% for 1800', others at 3.4 as I recall and a number of widely scattered 3% grades of some length.
It's one reason you gotta be patient because the truck drivers get side-by-side and hit those grades and you ain't going anywhere very fast.

On this trip to FL I averaged 13.9 mpg. Pretty much kept it at 65mph all the way. We ran into a stretch of extremely heavy rain for over an hour. That dropped the average down. My boat is only 3000lbs fully loaded.

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