I was going by the instructions that came with the Clayton lift kit:That's loose. That's MOPAR lift kit specs and it's loose.
The upper has a front and rear bolt spec and they vary.
I believe the front is 41 plus 185 degrees and the rear upper control arm bolt is 111 plus 95 degrees so before you even added the number of degrees of additional turns, your upper rear bolt is already loose if you only did 85.
This is for the REAR control arms - REAR axle - no way the fronts will be only 85 -
Front lower control arms - I used these factory specs and ended up over 200 pound/ft of final torque - 103 plus 145 degrees after you hit 103. It's a lot of torque.
Did you get this fixed yet?
Still working in it. RPM Steering has agreed to send me a replacement drag link end after they return from the holiday break. I'll report back once I install it.
Try jacking front end up enough to get a long 2x4 under there to lift up on the tire to find any play.
Were you able to figure this one out for your setup? I installed the JKS 3.5 lift and 35's a couple of months back and I'm having the same issue. I've retightened everything and nothing seems to fix that pop/clunk in the passenger front. I can re-create it with no problem by pulling in and out of my driveway at an angle.
Can you replicate the pop/clunk by not moving and steering to full lock, back and forth at full lock?
I had a clunk that only happened when at angles or flexing things.
Not the front end pop/clunk, but in full lock the steering wheel does make a slight knocking sound which sounds like it's coming from the drivers side. I had someone do it while I was underneath and it sounds like it's near the pitman arm area. The main pop clunk on the passenger front corner, I can't pinpoint at all.
I think I've given it a little extra, but at this point I think I've re-tightened every nut and bolt on the front end
