Front Tires Not Spinning in 4WD

[pcrawfordpt]

So...as the title says, the front tires are not spinning in 4WD Hi/Lo on my 2021 JTR, 22,000 miles. However, if I engage the front locker the driver side front tire will spine, but not the passenger. This may hold the clue to the answer, but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around it? Yes, the front driveshaft is spinning in 4wd Hi/Lo, so I think the transfer case is operating normally. I get no dash lights or check engine lights, but my ESS light showing "off" did engage itself several times, not sure what that means? A few months ago, I did have the FAD repaired due to the damaged bushing Star Case issue causing a grinding noise. This is the first time I have tried 4wd since the repair. Will take it back, but the dealer is a few hours away, there are never any rentals, so maybe I can just fix myself if anyone with a similar experience found it to be something simple. I never heard any unusual/alarming noises since the repair.

My Thoughts:
1) Tech missed installing the fork properly on the FAD collar?
2) FAD Module bad, but wouldn't I get a code?
3) Fuse somewhere? Tried to search/google but came up blank?
4) Drive Control Module?
5) Bad front carrier? But never heard any unusual/alarming noises and it will lock the driver side.
6) Anyone think damaged occurred running the front locker without the FAD engaged, or whatever is causing this?

Anyone with an experience like this or have an educated guess?

Thanks!

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[HooliganActual]

If this is the first time you've tried to engage the front axle since that FAD work was done, I'd be calling that shop. It's the most likely scenario that it is related to that.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

However, if I engage the front locker the driver side front tire will spine, but not the passenger. This may hold the clue to the answer, but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around it?

Bingo - with the locker, those two front tires should be locked together.
If the locker is NOT engaged, 1 front tire can spin and not the other.
A Rubicon in 4 wheel drive with lockers engaged - well, it's like there's zero differentials anywhere and all wheels are forced to spin the same speed, same direction (making it a killer to try to stop it)

If this is the first time you've tried to engage the front axle since that FAD work was done, I'd be calling that shop. It's the most likely scenario that it is related to that.

Yeah - what he said............... with locker engaged, the front axles are locked together.
so - either the locker isn't locking or the FAD isn't engaging - but if the locker wasn't engaging the other tire should still turn, even if the opposite direction, if the FAD had the right axle sections locked together.

 

[pcrawfordpt]

Bingo - with the locker, those two front tires should be locked together.
If the locker is NOT engaged, 1 front tire can spin and not the other.
A Rubicon in 4 wheel drive with lockers engaged - well, it's like there's zero differentials anywhere and all wheels are forced to spin the same speed, same direction (making it a killer to try to stop it)



Yeah - what he said............... with locker engaged, the front axles are locked together.
so - either the locker isn't locking or the FAD isn't engaging - but if the locker wasn't engaging the other tire should still turn, even if the opposite direction, if the FAD had the right axle sections locked together.

I'm thinking it's the FAD. The FAD is on the passenger side and the front locker is engaging the driver side. In 4wd without lockers, the power gets transferred to the side with the least resistance...which if the FAD wasn't working would be the passenger side, and this could be why I'm not getting any tire spin at all in 4wd. I think the locker is working due to driver side engagement with the locker. I think I see a FAD Delete in my future...

 

[Rubiwoo]

easy enough. Take the 4 bolts off the FAD and take a look

 

[pcrawfordpt]

Update…found the connector to the FAD module loose. Pulled off easily without undoing the secondary retaining clip. Water came out When I removed it. Wasn’t reinstalled properly. Thinking maybe it shorted? Letting it dry out, and will retest.

 

[Rusty PW]

Spray the plug with WD40. That will chase the water out. Then put dielectrical grease in the plug.

 

[HooliganActual]

Spray the plug with WD40. That will chase the water out. Then put deelectrical grease in the plug.

I love it. Most people don't know but the WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacement because that is what it was originally made for..?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I love it. Most people don't know but the WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacement because that is what it was originally made for..?

Yes, formula 40. So it's Water Displacement formula 40.
It's not a lubricant - but gets used that way a lot

 

[HooliganActual]

Yes, formula 40. So it's Water Displacement formula 40.
It's not a lubricant - but gets used that way a lot

Yes!!! Originally was developed to coat missiles to prevent rusting

 

[Hootbro]

Yes!!! Originally was developed to coat missiles to prevent rusting

May have had a narrow application when developed, but WD-40 original formula sucks as a general rust preventative

 

[HooliganActual]

May have had a narrow application when developed, but WD-40 original formula sucks as a general rust preventative

Yeah, that's one of those "happy failures" just like 3M's Post-it notes were born out of a failed adhesive development....

 

[Hootbro]

Yeah, that's one of those "happy failures" just like 3M's Post-it notes were born out of a failed adhesive development....

Here is my "Post-It Notes" story:

Back in the early 1970's, my Grandfather had just retired out of the Air Force and his first job was with 3M as a copier tech. Back then, copiers were the size of small cars in some cases and only large corporation offices and academic institutions would have them due to cost.

3M back then had their mitts in a lot more stuff than they do today but they would send upcoming new product or test samples to certain 3M employees like my Grandfather for personal use and feedback. I can remember as a kid going over to his house and one of the hallway closets was filled top to bottom with Post-It Notes, camera film and small personal use cameras along with a few other odds and ends.

When he made his service area rounds for the 3M copier stuff in Northern California and the Bay Area back in the mid 1970's, he took the Post-It Notes and handed them out to the secretaries at the offices he would visit like candy. This was pre-launch of the wider sale of Post-It Notes. After the first time he handed them out and made follow up visits, those secretaries threw themselves almost at him for more. He quipped he could have got laid at a few of places he visited over them.

After about a month, 3M corporate out of Minnesota called him to tell him to knock it off as word had gotten back to them about it and they were not ready for the public at large to know about them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

May have had a narrow application when developed, but WD-40 original formula sucks as a general rust preventative

It still does. it's a water displacement product, good for soaked distributor caps, soaked magnetos and so on, but if you spray it on your saw blades and go back in a couple of months - they'll be rusty. Know that from personal experience...... worthless as a tool protection for more than a few days.

 

[Hootbro]

It still does. it's a water displacement product, good for soaked distributor caps, soaked magnetos and so on, but if you spray it on your saw blades and go back in a couple of months - they'll be rusty. Know that from personal experience...... worthless as a tool protection for more than a few days.

I can say their Specialist line Corrosion Inhibitor product does a great job for rust protection. It is what I used on my tools for a wipe down.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300038-Specialist-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B00631GWS4

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