Headlight bulb replacement

[FLACRACKER]

Hello to all. My drivers side headlight is out and I need to replace it (2020 JT Overland). Saw videos on replacement, seams straight forward. Question is, any concerns about replacing the bulbs with LED. Any suggestions as to where to purchase (i.e. Amazon). If possible could you provide a link to the bulbs you would recommend. Thanks for time !

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[Gvsukids]

Hello to all. My drivers side headlight is out and I need to replace it (2020 JT Overland). Saw videos on replacement, seams straight forward. Question is, any concerns about replacing the bulbs with LED. Any suggestions as to where to purchase (i.e. Amazon). If possible could you provide a link to the bulbs you would recommend. Thanks for time !

Yes. You'll need a resistor, or Tazer-like device.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/head-light-upgrade-to-led-bulbs.59464/

https://www.google.com/search?q=LED...FHUuxLvMQrQJ6BAgYEAg&biw=289&bih=547&dpr=3.74

 

[FLACRACKER]

Thank you Gvsukids, looks like I have some reading to do after the football games today !

 

[danimal2000]

I replaced my halogen bulbs with sealight brand LEDs off Amazon, about a year ago. Pretty happy with them so far. Seems the exact ones are no longer available so I can't share a link. But sealight is the brand

 

[Mr._Bill]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...leds-in-the-frozen-tundra.86515/#post-1396990

 

[mgw750]

I did the same and have worked well. Been close to 2 years now. Depending on what you bought you may or may not need to use a tazer or resistors. I did not.

 

[Labswine]

I initially replaced my halogens with LED bulbs off Amazon back about 5 years ago because the factory halogens were woefully inadequate.

They kinda-sorta worked but I only had low beam, no high beam (guessing they weren't quite right for the application). So, I ended up just ordering 9" LEDs with the 'halos' off Amazon. They were basically plug and play, and I did have to run a wire to a switched point in the fuse box to make the halos work. Have had them for over 4 years now and they still work perfectly and really throw a lot of light down the road.

I got these (and they are now less expensive then when I got mine)...WELL worth the price of admission No Tazer or other OBD plug in controller needed. Works great 'as is'.

https://www.amazon.com/KIWI-MASTER-Headlights-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B07N4K67H1/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3FJ15OTEWO87A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tgVglwOwS6CZtWLTYEkdzR9PeCtfJUf8rVulTjSn8WgJZyOiRZXW_bdCugj-Qjk4UqwvA0MkfYezSN8DNRy2nW0_JDXICQwxJVQFARFyvBXw5ixQ1yMY0sFsJWG8I_v2VcQwOqMsFvgDJ0LMSyTaofkpcsz_e1YqkuTxVIdQWKURW-SKgbrdewFRcdL_LYoqUM_bm98Hi9-bzAL2iVdxKynEtTmvNta8lmdK_3IRwtvGOie2wrz6QbgZp_OQ3_WH3ap5eALH2kwrN7zuJGENn6Xz37IkHVA1ytZVQzQru2A.xwgIOYJf0Wb9JiG5Agd8TV1zagO92ACmB1zQQ0-wWyg&dib_tag=se&keywords=led+headlights+for+2020+jeep+gladiator&qid=1730038182&sprefix=LED+headlights+for+2020+Jeep+,aps,120&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

 

[NortonJTSS]

I initially replaced my halogens with LED bulbs off Amazon back about 5 years ago because the factory halogens were woefully inadequate.

They kinda-sorta worked but I only had low beam, no high beam (guessing they weren't quite right for the application). So, I ended up just ordering 9" LEDs with the 'halos' off Amazon. They were basically plug and play, and I did have to run a wire to a switched point in the fuse box to make the halos work. Have had them for over 4 years now and they still work perfectly and really throw a lot of light down the road.

I got these (and they are now less expensive then when I got mine)...WELL worth the price of admission No Tazer or other OBD plug in controller needed. Works great 'as is'.

https://www.amazon.com/KIWI-MASTER-Headlights-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B07N4K67H1/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3FJ15OTEWO87A&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tgVglwOwS6CZtWLTYEkdzR9PeCtfJUf8rVulTjSn8WgJZyOiRZXW_bdCugj-Qjk4UqwvA0MkfYezSN8DNRy2nW0_JDXICQwxJVQFARFyvBXw5ixQ1yMY0sFsJWG8I_v2VcQwOqMsFvgDJ0LMSyTaofkpcsz_e1YqkuTxVIdQWKURW-SKgbrdewFRcdL_LYoqUM_bm98Hi9-bzAL2iVdxKynEtTmvNta8lmdK_3IRwtvGOie2wrz6QbgZp_OQ3_WH3ap5eALH2kwrN7zuJGENn6Xz37IkHVA1ytZVQzQru2A.xwgIOYJf0Wb9JiG5Agd8TV1zagO92ACmB1zQQ0-wWyg&dib_tag=se&keywords=led+headlights+for+2020+jeep+gladiator&qid=1730038182&sprefix=LED+headlights+for+2020+Jeep+,aps,120&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

If money is an issue I would go with something like this or even a better LED projector. Throwing LED bulbs in the halogen housing is going to throw light all over the place and potentially could be dangerous for other drivers.

 

[FLACRACKER]

Thanks to all, I ordered
SEALIGHT® X5 9008/H13 LED Headlight Bulbs White 80W 6500K IP68 2PCS for 2020 Jeep Gladiato. We wil "see" if they are any good. I will come back to this post to report results !

 

[Onebadv2]

I recommend you read up on these. Headlight revolution has a great comparison video on YouTube

 

[bd100]

I really wish these LED bulbs of all types would come in 5000K instead of 6500K. Much less blue.

And a little bleed is good. A super sharp cutoff makes for a problem in hilly terrain where you are going downhill and cannot see anything on the next uphill. A designed 20% or so vertical spillover would be nice.

 

[Light]

I changed mine out to led no taser no problems so much better then OEM that came on it. One issue was my high beams are low and low beams are high so I drive with it set at high beams and no issues

 

[ChrisNLA]

I have had Beamtechs for two years. No device was needed, they have worked fine with no warnings or flickering. Beam pattern is fine. I adjusted the headlights to compensate for my leveling kit and the brightness of the LED's. Doesn't seem to bother other drivers (I never get flashed), and I've been followed at night in my truck while driving a low sports car and the headlights were not bothersome (not even as bad as a new F150 with its actual approved LED factory lights...).

Your experience may differ.

 

[Deleted member 52902]

Technically your factory, DOT and SAE approved headlamp housing will no longer be in compliance with ANY aftermarket, LED element you plug into it.

That said, there are some good quality elements that have been engineered the best they can, to locate LED's in positions to utilize the headlamps interior to retain the focus and placement of emitted light where it needs to be. The high beam is a bit tricker since it has to provide longer range without the bean spreading upwards to blast incoming drivers. Especially a State Trooper. That's why we see a cupped, silvered piece inside of an incandescent or halogen lamp. And similar in LED's used for high beam in headlamp-bulb chambers.

Hot points in lumen output are tough to totally eliminate but in real life, the good LED elements do a good job.

One excellent benefit of these are that when they fail, you do not have to replace both left and right. Except you might want too, because LED's do age over time.

LED's built into a headlamp cannot be replaced. If that headlamp has LED failure, you're going to be purchasing a new pair. At least typically. Again because replacing one might be brighter than the remaining old headlamp. Anyway, whether you can acquire one headlamp, maybe from a bone yard to replace a faulted or rock, or crash damaged LED headlamp assembly, it will be expensive. Even from a bone yard that salvaged a single unit. They might pair it up with another single and insist on selling this potentially mismatched by used-age, light output-pair. Just saying, beware.

Many guys, which I bet is more of a guy thing, have purchased and used the replaceable LED elements into their existing headlamp assemblies. And they do work. Just make sure you really re-check the alignment of the headlamp. Any error in alignment with the former halogen can be greatly different with LED's. You can find aiming instructions on the Internet. It is easy. Just plan for two hours to perhaps place some blue paint masking tape on a garage door or other flat surface as aiming instructions will define. Vehicle at the proper distance on a level surface. And your have the proper Torx head to turn the adjusters, but only little turns at a time. Don't go crazy and make things worse. Watch the patterns versus the markings on your "aiming wall" . You did park the vehicle on a level surface AND it's perfectly square to the aiming wall, right? Both of these parameters must be adhered too, or your aiming efforts will be for naught. See why I said two hours? Setup time. Do it once and have the marks permanent on a garage door or wall, you're still taking some time to get the vehicle properly placed. Oh, and technically, the vehicle is weighted normally. I mean, you're not parked with say, two grimy old engine blocks in the bed of a truck. Or your pull behind camper or boat is still hitched up. Actually the weight of the usual in vehicle persons should be included but it does not usually make a visible difference in aiming. But if your a purist...

You decide what your best cost/benefit ratio will be, replaceable LED elements or completely swap in some sealed LED headlamp assemblies. Plus any tweaks in the vehicles computer that may be required for the difference in CANBUS data. Anybody that has completed the exchange will tell you the difference is remarkable. Get the aiming right and your safety driving at night is dramatically improved.

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