Help installing steel steering box

[Puch]

I hope to be replacing my aluminum steering box with a new steel steering box soon.
Never replaced one before and they don’t come with instructions. It doesn’t look to difficult, but anyone have any suggestions or tips for me?

Edit: I replaced the steering box today. For those that might be interested. Everything is relatively simple except for getting the pitman arm off the old steering box. I broke one puller and fought with two other pullers before I removed the old box with the arm attached. With help from the neighbor we heated up the arm to break it free with the puller.
I had to remove the inner fender because it made it easier to get to the fluid lines on top of the box. Also removed the track bar to get to the pitman nut and the swaybar link on the drivers side to get to one of four bolts holding the box on.
You will need one other person to remove and install the steering box. It’s heavy! Once it in place and you have the bolts started, it’s a one person job. Next, tighten down the four main bolts to hold the box in place, attach the steering shaft, then the lines. Next the pitman arm nut. Reattach the track bar. You will need about 2 pints of steering fluid (for electric pump). The steering box holds a lot of fluid which all dumped out when I removed the old box. Adjust the steering wheel. Mine was off center ALOT after the install. Started at 7am, two beer breaks, two trips to the auto parts store, another beer break and finally all done at 5pm.
Once everything was reinstalled and torqued properly, it drives perfectly. No pull to the right, no sloppy steering, no wonder.
I like to say thanks to AllMoparparts.com for the parts. I’ve used them a few times and they are always great to do business with.
Also ?to Mitchell Chrysler Dodge Ram in Canton, CT for diagnosing my steering problem as “no problem found” and frustrating me to the point where I decided to buy and install this new steering box instead of covering it under warranty. F you!

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[4xjeepr]

It's a warranty repair, will your dealer not cover this for you free of charge?

 

[Puch]

All I’m going to say about that is, I don’t go to dealerships for service anymore unless it’s something I can’t do and it’s my last resort.
Yes, spending $500 bucks on a new box that should be under warranty and doing it myself is easier and less stressful than playing games with dealerships in my area (3 that I’ve gone to).
I could go on and provide details, but I’d rather get kicked in the nuts many many times rather then relive those nightmares.
But, thanks for asking.

 

[CrazyCooter]

The last one I swapped out, the client had easily removable aftermarket inner fenders, so that made getting at the hose fittings and coupler shaft MUCH easier!

That said other than pulling the pitman arm requiring a puller, it's pretty much remove bolts and reinstall? I would lock the steering wheel in place (I use the seatbelt) so that you don't chance rotating the wheel during the install and over winding/breaking the clock spring.

I recall the frame bolt torque being 100ftlb.

 

[Puch]

The last one I swapped out, the client had easily removable aftermarket inner fenders, so that made getting at the hose fittings and coupler shaft MUCH easier!

That said other than pulling the pitman arm requiring a puller, it's pretty much remove bolts and reinstall? I would lock the steering wheel in place (I use the seatbelt) so that you don't chance rotating the wheel during the install and over winding/breaking the clock spring.

I recall the frame bolt torque being 100ftlb.

Thank you! I wouldn’t have thought to lock the wheel.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You do realize that the steel box includes a flash, correct?

That's something I've not seen anyone comment on - swapping the steering gear in and not doing the required update.

However, FCA includes this warning on the TSB -

NOTE: Review and perform all steps available in DealerCONNECT/Service Library necessary..........
If any steps are missed, this may lead to undesired handling characteristics.

Odd that people who have never had any experience with steering or replacing steering gear trust themselves over a dealer. The owner is just as likely to f' it up as the dealer, maybe more.

You need the new bolts and the NEW pitman nut. Make damned sure you use new parts and torque to factory specs, not what's floating around in the "I think that.........." arena.

The effect of not updating the software - so far no one has anything specific. Not that I've seen, anyway.

The last one I swapped out, the client had easily removable aftermarket inner fenders, so that made getting at the hose fittings and coupler shaft MUCH easier!

That said other than pulling the pitman arm requiring a puller, it's pretty much remove bolts and reinstall? I would lock the steering wheel in place (I use the seatbelt) so that you don't chance rotating the wheel during the install and over winding/breaking the clock spring.

I recall the frame bolt torque being 100ftlb.

The steering linkage will hit stops - no risk of turning the wheel too far. It's the linkage that stops the steering wheel from going too far so as long as the pitman nut is loosened and removed first, no danger.
I've replaced many steering gear over the years, including restoration and repair and as long as you don't turn that wheel once the gear is removed, it would be fine.
One thing to watch out for - and one guy ran into this - you can be 1 full turn off - 360 degrees off, on the steering wheel where the wheel makes it appear you are going straight ahead but the truck thinks you are turning sharp. So make sure the steering gear is put in with the pitman in the same rotational position as the old one was removed otherwise you'll have to take the shaft loose at the steering gear and turn the steering wheel a full turn and put the shaft back on the steering gear input.

A person could use jscan to see how many degrees the steering column reads and make sure the steering gear is installed with the pitman straight out or in the "wheels straight" position when the wheel is at or near 0 degrees in jscan.

 

[CrazyCooter]

You do realize that the steel box includes a flash, correct?

That's something I've not seen anyone comment on - swapping the steering gear in and not doing the required update.

However, FCA includes this warning on the TSB -

NOTE: Review and perform all steps available in DealerCONNECT/Service Library necessary..........
If any steps are missed, this may lead to undesired handling characteristics.

Odd that people who have never had any experience with steering or replacing steering gear trust themselves over a dealer. The owner is just as likely to f' it up as the dealer, maybe more.

You need the new bolts and the NEW pitman nut. Make damned sure you use new parts and torque to factory specs, not what's floating around in the "I think that.........." arena.

The effect of not updating the software - so far no one has anything specific. Not that I've seen, anyway.



The steering linkage will hit stops - no risk of turning the wheel too far. It's the linkage that stops the steering wheel from going too far so as long as the pitman nut is loosened and removed first, no danger.
I've replaced many steering gear over the years, including restoration and repair and as long as you don't turn that wheel once the gear is removed, it would be fine.
One thing to watch out for - and one guy ran into this - you can be 1 full turn off - 360 degrees off, on the steering wheel where the wheel makes it appear you are going straight ahead but the truck thinks you are turning sharp. So make sure the steering gear is put in with the pitman in the same rotational position as the old one was removed otherwise you'll have to take the shaft loose at the steering gear and turn the steering wheel a full turn and put the shaft back on the steering gear input.

A person could use jscan to see how many degrees the steering column reads and make sure the steering gear is installed with the pitman straight out or in the "wheels straight" position when the wheel is at or near 0 degrees in jscan.

I think you missed what I was saying here about turning the steering coupler shaft/steering wheel while its disconnected from the gear........One turn off and the clock spring snaps. Expensive mistake that I learned the hard way long ago while I was in a hurry.

 

[Puch]

You do realize that the steel box includes a flash, correct?

That's something I've not seen anyone comment on - swapping the steering gear in and not doing the required update.

However, FCA includes this warning on the TSB -

NOTE: Review and perform all steps available in DealerCONNECT/Service Library necessary..........
If any steps are missed, this may lead to undesired handling characteristics.

Odd that people who have never had any experience with steering or replacing steering gear trust themselves over a dealer. The owner is just as likely to f' it up as the dealer, maybe more.

You need the new bolts and the NEW pitman nut. Make damned sure you use new parts and torque to factory specs, not what's floating around in the "I think that.........." arena.

The effect of not updating the software - so far no one has anything specific. Not that I've seen, anyway.



The steering linkage will hit stops - no risk of turning the wheel too far. It's the linkage that stops the steering wheel from going too far so as long as the pitman nut is loosened and removed first, no danger.
I've replaced many steering gear over the years, including restoration and repair and as long as you don't turn that wheel once the gear is removed, it would be fine.
One thing to watch out for - and one guy ran into this - you can be 1 full turn off - 360 degrees off, on the steering wheel where the wheel makes it appear you are going straight ahead but the truck thinks you are turning sharp. So make sure the steering gear is put in with the pitman in the same rotational position as the old one was removed otherwise you'll have to take the shaft loose at the steering gear and turn the steering wheel a full turn and put the shaft back on the steering gear input.

A person could use jscan to see how many degrees the steering column reads and make sure the steering gear is installed with the pitman straight out or in the "wheels straight" position when the wheel is at or near 0 degrees in jscan.

Excellent information. Thank you! That’s why I ask for help here.
During my last visit to a dealership due to my Jeep pulling to the right and sloppy steering and weird shimmy, I mentioned the TSB for the steering and the steel replacement. After 4 days I was told “we took it for a 20 mile test drive and no problem found”. When I went to pick it up I asked if I could take someone for a drive and show them the problem. Their response was the person that you need to show isn’t here. You will have to come back.
That was the least annoying dealership visit that I have had. But, still shows me how incompetent they are. A 5 min drive with my wife and she spots the problem easily. I mention my wife because automobile issues are not her strong point.
I can go on and on about similar situations at several dealerships regarding different issues. It’s always a runaround and a giant wast of MY time. Dealers are not what they were. At least the 3 that I have had the pleasure of dealing with. We can debate the reasons, supply chain, lack of staff, procedures, bla bla bla. It boils down to what is your level of tolerance for BS and how much you value your own time.
Yes, when the last place gave me the runaround, I told them I would do it myself and I asked if I had the current update for the steering box. They said yes. Do I trust them, NO! That is why I will probably have to find a dealership Evan further from my home and make an appointment and hope they will do the flash while I wait.
Yes, I trust myself over any of the Jeep dealerships that I have dealt with so far. Thankfully I have pretty good mechanical ability. I think I can pull this off with the help of the people here. Who I trust WAY more than the mentioned dealers.
Thank you again for the information. I sincerely appreciate it.

 

[NellyTooTall]

My Jeep is a bit loose at high speeds and seems to wonder. I have a 2020 Rubicon with 67k miles so out of warranty… anyone know if a dealership still replace with steel box for free?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I think you missed what I was saying here about turning the steering coupler shaft/steering wheel while its disconnected from the gear........One turn off and the clock spring snaps. Expensive mistake that I learned the hard way long ago while I was in a hurry.

No, I just never turn the wheel while it's disconnected from the input of the steering gear. Once it's disconnected, I don't see any need to move it.
Of course before about 2011, even Jeep locked the steering column when the vehicle was off, but still, I line things up so the wheels are straight ahead, remove the old gear, put the new one in with the gear centered and reconnect the column.

Some of those clock spring ribbons have more than one turn to them before the get tight, others don't have a lot of forgiveness.
Best to keep things straight.

There was a fellow here who somehow had his off a bit and the vehicle's systems thought he was turning when the wheels were straight. If in doubt, you can read the steering column's position with jscan.
If a newbie - then use a strap or bungee to hold things.

I've had so many apart over the decades I guess I'm used to it all, second nature.

 

[Vincent]

My Jeep is a bit loose at high speeds and seems to wonder. I have a 2020 Rubicon with 67k miles so out of warranty… anyone know if a dealership still replace with steel box for free?

at 130,000, mines starting to feel a little loose too, ugh!!

 

[Rusty PW]

at 130,000, mines starting to feel a little loose too, ugh!!

It's just getting broken in.

 

[swink55]

My Jeep is a bit loose at high speeds and seems to wonder. I have a 2020 Rubicon with 67k miles so out of warranty… anyone know if a dealership still replace with steel box for free?

I need a new one at 40k miles. Called the dealership this morning. They were like yea 36k miles is the cut off. Common bro

 

[theazgman]

You do realize that the steel box includes a flash, correct?

That's something I've not seen anyone comment on - swapping the steering gear in and not doing the required update.

However, FCA includes this warning on the TSB -

NOTE: Review and perform all steps available in DealerCONNECT/Service Library necessary..........
If any steps are missed, this may lead to undesired handling characteristics.

Odd that people who have never had any experience with steering or replacing steering gear trust themselves over a dealer. The owner is just as likely to f' it up as the dealer, maybe more.

You need the new bolts and the NEW pitman nut. Make damned sure you use new parts and torque to factory specs, not what's floating around in the "I think that.........." arena.

The effect of not updating the software - so far no one has anything specific. Not that I've seen, anyway.



The steering linkage will hit stops - no risk of turning the wheel too far. It's the linkage that stops the steering wheel from going too far so as long as the pitman nut is loosened and removed first, no danger.
I've replaced many steering gear over the years, including restoration and repair and as long as you don't turn that wheel once the gear is removed, it would be fine.
One thing to watch out for - and one guy ran into this - you can be 1 full turn off - 360 degrees off, on the steering wheel where the wheel makes it appear you are going straight ahead but the truck thinks you are turning sharp. So make sure the steering gear is put in with the pitman in the same rotational position as the old one was removed otherwise you'll have to take the shaft loose at the steering gear and turn the steering wheel a full turn and put the shaft back on the steering gear input.

A person could use jscan to see how many degrees the steering column reads and make sure the steering gear is installed with the pitman straight out or in the "wheels straight" position when the wheel is at or near 0 degrees in jscan.

Please assist

Excellent information. Thank you! That’s why I ask for help here.
During my last visit to a dealership due to my Jeep pulling to the right and sloppy steering and weird shimmy, I mentioned the TSB for the steering and the steel replacement. After 4 days I was told “we took it for a 20 mile test drive and no problem found”. When I went to pick it up I asked if I could take someone for a drive and show them the problem. Their response was the person that you need to show isn’t here. You will have to come back.
That was the least annoying dealership visit that I have had. But, still shows me how incompetent they are. A 5 min drive with my wife and she spots the problem easily. I mention my wife because automobile issues are not her strong point.
I can go on and on about similar situations at several dealerships regarding different issues. It’s always a runaround and a giant wast of MY time. Dealers are not what they were. At least the 3 that I have had the pleasure of dealing with. We can debate the reasons, supply chain, lack of staff, procedures, bla bla bla. It boils down to what is your level of tolerance for BS and how much you value your own time.
Yes, when the last place gave me the runaround, I told them I would do it myself and I asked if I had the current update for the steering box. They said yes. Do I trust them, NO! That is why I will probably have to find a dealership Evan further from my home and make an appointment and hope they will do the flash while I wait.
Yes, I trust myself over any of the Jeep dealerships that I have dealt with so far. Thankfully I have pretty good mechanical ability. I think I can pull this off with the help of the people here. Who I trust WAY more than the mentioned dealers.
Thank you again for the information. I sincerely appreciate it.

How do you know if the flash is done?

Also, got my gladiator back after the steering box was replaced. Noticed fluid dripping while it was parked in my driveway, thought it was ac condensation. But this continued for about 2 weeks. It's winter so don't use ac. Looked closer and saw what appeared to be fluid on the front differential and passenger side sway bar, sway bar disconnect. No fluid residue before I took gladiator in for steering box replacement. Also saw fluid dripping along muffler and exhaust, assuming it is from leak. This has been going on for about a month. Ive only put 80 miles on since steering box was replaced. Dealer tells me this is normal and after replacement the power steering fluid is just burping.

I don't think this is accurate and I believe there is a way to bleed the power steering fluid

Anyone have knowledge of what would be correct?

 

[Puch]

Please assist



How do you know if the flash is done?

Also, got my gladiator back after the steering box was replaced. Noticed fluid dripping while it was parked in my driveway, thought it was ac condensation. But this continued for about 2 weeks. It's winter so don't use ac. Looked closer and saw what appeared to be fluid on the front differential and passenger side sway bar, sway bar disconnect. No fluid residue before I took gladiator in for steering box replacement. Also saw fluid dripping along muffler and exhaust, assuming it is from leak. This has been going on for about a month. Ive only put 80 miles on since steering box was replaced. Dealer tells me this is normal and after replacement the power steering fluid is just burping.

I don't think this is accurate and I believe there is a way to bleed the power steering fluid

Anyone have knowledge of what would be correct?

One of the knucklehead service departments told me that I had the update. I never had it confirmed by another dealer.
Im not an expert, but BURPING sounds like the dumbest thing I’ve ever heard. It should have been burped when it was installed. Mine didn’t shelf burp after I installed it.

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