Help!

[tommyp]

Have you thought about going a different direction by adjusting the rear instead of the front? You could drop the rear by going to a 1inch or 3/4in spacer. If you want it perfectly level you could take the rear spacer out all together. The biggest thing about doing what your wanting with the front is getting to the point of needing a new driveshaft along with shocks. What size tires are you running?

^^^ this too

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[Wheelin98TJ]

Why not clayton 2.5" front springs. That should bring you up where you want to be without having to do driveshafts.

This is what I'd do in your situation.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

Have you thought about going a different direction by adjusting the rear instead of the front? You could drop the rear by going to a 1inch or 3/4in spacer. If you want it perfectly level you could take the rear spacer out all together. The biggest thing about doing what your wanting with the front is getting to the point of needing a new driveshaft along with shocks. What size tires are you running?

Im running 35s on it now. I’d prefer to keep the height as it’s just what I was looking for, just bring the front up a bit. Your suggestion would certainly level it however and for very cheap.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

This is what I'd do in your situation.

Looking into this now. Just reached out to Clayton to confirm the 2.5” spring will be 2.5” over a rubicon and 3.5” over a overland/sport.
Also to confirm factory shocks with AEV extensions. All this combined with my Mopar 2” lift lower control arms (arms only) and it should be right where I need to be.

-should end up higher than rubicon takeoff springs and the spacer from where I am now

-with mopar LCA shouldn’t mess with any of my steering geometry or factory handling

-AEV driveshaft support spacer should be enough to help out with slight driveshaft angle change.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Looking into this now. Just reached out to Clayton to confirm the 2.5” spring will be 2.5” over a rubicon and 3.5” over a overland/sport.
Also to confirm factory shocks with AEV extensions. All this combined with my Mopar 2” lift lower control arms (arms only) and it should be right where I need to be.

-should end up higher than rubicon takeoff springs and the spacer from where I am now

-with mopar LCA shouldn’t mess with any of my steering geometry or factory handling

-AEV driveshaft support spacer should be enough to help out with slight driveshaft angle change.

You'll be at more lift height than the Mopar arms are designed for, but should still be ok.

It'd be nice if those Mopar arms were adjustable.

 

[Boostnu]

I think the suggestions for clayton 2.5” front springs and take the spacers out should work for you. You may still have some rake with the bumper that you could adjust out with a small spacer.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

You'll be at more lift height than the Mopar arms are designed for, but should still be ok.

It'd be nice if those Mopar arms were adjustable.

Sure would. Was between these and the AEV correction brackets, but the LCA did the same thing for less money.
I half figure that AEV says with a 2” lift that LCA/geo correction brackets are “good to have” but not necessar. This should put them in the “necessary” and good enough for the lift height category.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

Update: talked to Clayton and they had some good info. Looks like ill do their 2.5” front springs as it’ll be closer to 3.5” on my overland. (Not sure why they don’t advertise that as its a selling point for non rubicon owners.)

What they didn’t know was:

1: AEV shock extensions with factory shocks. They couldn’t say if that would work with their front springs. I may do longer Bilstein 5100s anyway. Fox 2.0 is a better shock, but for on road the Bilstein will do what I need.

2: the end links. The 2” AEV kit came with longer ones. Any idea If those would be sufficient for a 2.5” Clayton spring? I have no idea the tolerance on an end link. Don’t know if every 1/16th or an inch counts or “that’ll be plenty close enough” is the rule here.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Update: talked to Clayton and they had some good info. Looks like ill do their 2.5” front springs as it’ll be closer to 3.5” on my overland. (Not sure why they don’t advertise that as its a selling point for non rubicon owners.)

What they didn’t know was:

1: AEV shock extensions with factory shocks. They couldn’t say if that would work with their front springs. I may do longer Bilstein 5100s anyway. Fox 2.0 is a better shock, but for on road the Bilstein will do what I need.

2: the end links. The 2” AEV kit came with longer ones. Any idea If those would be sufficient for a 2.5” Clayton spring? I have no idea the tolerance on an end link. Don’t know if every 1/16th or an inch counts or “that’ll be plenty close enough” is the rule here.

Sorry, not sure on the AEV shock extensions. I have 5100s on mine and they ride pretty decent. They are a little firm. I knew that going in. This is my second set of 5100s.

End links meaning sway bar links? If so, close enough works fine. The ideal setting for a sway bar is the arm should be level when the wheel and tire are in the center of their travel.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

Sorry, not sure on the AEV shock extensions. I have 5100s on mine and they ride pretty decent. They are a little firm. I knew that going in. This is my second set of 5100s.

End links meaning sway bar links? If so, close enough works fine. The ideal setting for a sway bar is the arm should be level when the wheel and tire are in the center of their travel.

That’s helpful, thanks. I have the stock, non fox, overland shocks now. They are fine but figure while I have it all apart and I don’t know if the shock extensions will work, may as well just swap them out. As you say, likely more stiff, but still a decent shock. If I had plans to get off-road a bit I’d just do the fox 2.0 for 2-3” lift shocks.
For those still reading:
-doing Clayton 2.5” front springs and removing AEV spacer
-leaving longer AEV swaybar end links in place
-ditching shock extensions all around and adding extended Bilstein 5100s.
-getting a full alignment.
Local top notch jeep guy quoted $500 labor to do all the work and the alignment once done.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

Follow up question to my follow up:

While not vital, since we are taking things apart anyway…

- adding CORE 4X4 adjustable front track bar.

QUESTION-
rear will be 2 inch lift. For a track bar my first choice is
-Teraflex rear track relocation bracket at around $100
( https://teraflex.com/shop/jt-rear-track-bar-axle-bracket-kit-0-6-5-lift.html )

option 2 is the CORE 4X4 rear adjustable track bar at around $245
( https://www.core4x4.com/product/t3-j-jt-rtb1/ )

Confident both would do a fine job for my daily on road driving but didn’t know If the brain trust has any opinions. Soonest shop appointment is 11/4 so I’ve got a little time to narrow this all down.

 

[KX L]

Remember, my experience was on a JK, and I knew that I could gain back the 3/4" of sag by going up 2 spring numbers. I don't know enough about the JT springs to know what the different part number springs will do. Typically, the higher the spring part number, the more lift you will get from it.

The other question is how are you measuring your rake? Measuring at the fenders is deceiving. Try measuring under your sliders or frame rails to see what the true rake is.

Re measuring rake. Who cares what the numerical difference is if the vehicle owner doesn't like the look? If the rake was too much and you want the JT to be close to level then increase the spring number until the look is what you want. I'm not trying to be a troll---am I missing something?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That gave you an inch or so in the front? It’s a good option as if I can’t find any local takeoffs I can get them for like $120 on moparparts etc. could also use my existing shocks and AEV extensions while I track down some fox takeoffs (and use those with AEV extensions.)

This won’t get me level, but if I could guess correctly at the right spring numbers I should get an inch. I don’t mind the rake…just not
2-3” of it

The lighter Rubicon springs under the front of mine raised it almost 1". My bumper and winch and skid plate dropped it 1/2" again, then I used 3/4" spacers to raise it back up.
But the lighter Rubicon front springs give my Overland just shy of an inch.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Re measuring rake. Who cares what the numerical difference is if the vehicle owner doesn't like the look? If the rake was too much and you want the JT to be close to level then increase the spring number until the look is what you want. I'm not trying to be a troll---am I missing something?

I like some rake, always have - with TRUCKS. It is a truck first to me. And that way when I load it down my butt doesn't drag and I'm not coon hunting with the headlights on.
I hate saggy butts, cars or trucks. That's just me. And trucks need some rake.

 

[USMC-SSGT]

@tommyp and others. A quick follow up.

Ended up taking your advice and it was spot on. Pulled the OEM springs, AEV spacer, and shock extensions. Replaced with longer shocks and Clayton springs. Brought me up almost 2” in the front and measuring off the bottom of the body seam is 1/2” of rake. Also took the opportunity for new track bar and rear track bar bracket.

The Clayton stuff was awesome and I should have gone that route right from the start. With that said, because I like the look I may just leave the 2” rear AEV spacer because the truck looks and performs great. It’s also back and forth as the Clayton rear 2.5” spring then requires a 1/2” spacer to level the front again. I’d need to pull the front apart again to place the spacer. This would only achieve another 1/2” lift.

hindsight- could have just ordered the rear springs and spacer and done it all today while I was in there. I do like the current look however and have zero concerns over the OEM spring and the AEV quality. The change (if I make it) would just be for continuity.

Lastly- can’t believe I paid to have the AEV stuff installed. This job took me about 3.5/4 hours taking my time and changing four shocks and adding the track bar. Very straight forward.
Thanks @Clayton Off Road for answering my dozen questions.

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