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High Altitude Gladiator for highway use?

Gl4dy8r

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The curb weight of a basic Wrangler is about 4,000 lbs. The 4xe is like 5,200. It's going to have significantly different shocks and springs, Wrangler to Wrangler. Wrangler to Gladiator, who knows.
According to the spec sheets for both the Rubicon and Rubicon 4xe, the shocks are the same. They're also the same on the 392.
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j.o.y.ride

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According to the spec sheets for both the Rubicon and Rubicon 4xe, the shocks are the same. They're also the same on the 392.
Well that's Rubicon to 4xe, not base Sport to 4xe. Guy I was responding to is comparing a 4xe Wrangler to a Sport Gladiator.
 

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Leaf springs on a car does not translate to coils on a Jeep. Not even close.
It does for showing the differences in rates, etc.
They behave differently but still have different rates and ability to hold weight and make differences in cornering.
I have two vehicles here that I've changed coil springs on if you don't think leaf springs are springs and can't make a difference.
Absolutely wire size, numbers of coils, spacing and so on - huge differences in both cars.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Just to throw some more fuel into this, you can buy the same Fox shocks that the Mojave has for something like $2700 for the set except after market ones will be adjustable. The springs are possibly a little different, but adjustable versions of the Mojave should settle any truck down.

So to the point that the Mojave is the nicest riding... you can do the same treatment to a Sport and get the same ride from the shocks, but have the ability to adjust for fine tuning.
Shocks won't take the harsh out of the springs.
Mine doesn't ride as nice as it used to on rough roads and city streets with the max tow springs. You can't support all the weight that higher rate springs have and still have the cushy ride.
I gave up some of that cushy soft ride in town to have the ability to haul without the truck's butt sagging badly.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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It does for showing the differences in rates, etc.
They behave differently but still have different rates and ability to hold weight and make differences in cornering.
I have two vehicles here that I've changed coil springs on if you don't think leaf springs are springs and can't make a difference.
Absolutely wire size, numbers of coils, spacing and so on - huge differences in both cars.
Shocks won't take the harsh out of the springs.
Mine doesn't ride as nice as it used to on rough roads and city streets with the max tow springs. You can't support all the weight that higher rate springs have and still have the cushy ride.
I gave up some of that cushy soft ride in town to have the ability to haul without the truck's butt sagging badly.
Suspension builders tune the ride with shocks. Coils set the height.

You didn’t change springs to change the ride. You did it to haul without sagging (height).
 

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LOL - my Overland has everything the High Altitude does - except the "luxury" items like color matching bumpers and door handles. I fail to see any real differences.
ACC - got that.
BSM - got that.
Passive entry - yeah, have that.
I've been trying to find out what the HA edition has that my Overland doesn't have other than appearance items.
I've driven my Overland to Fort Wayne and back, Omaha and back, Colorado Springs and back, and plan on going to Florida this fall. My wife loves Grand Cherokees but actually likes driving my truck, too.



Yeah, that's about it! It's really no different in many ways.
All the HA has that I don't have is the body color stuff. Otherwise - compare - if I painted my bumpers and door handles, and put those wheels on it, I'd have a HA for the most part.

It's really just an Overland with a few added things you can't order on the Overland.
Otherwise, name a feature my Overland doesn't have - other than appearance items........
I have the HA, it’s got the bells and whistles, the Alpine stereo is nice, leather dash, but it’s all creature comfort stuff. Worth it to me, but can’t say would be the same for everyone. I drive a lot on the highway, it’s a midsize truck and drives like one. I’ve owned fulled sized trucks and SUVs. All drove a bit different, but weight alone was different. I love my Gladiator, but I loved my Cherokee TrailHawk. It’s a lot more personal preference than hard science with this vehicle.
 

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How about we meet in the middle and add this -> I took it wrong, too.

In my case, my wife talked me up to the Overland because of the creature comforts, my age and we both love all the stuff her Jeeps have had - and, because she insisted, and I agree with her expertise on colors and pallets (she's a great well-known quilter) - this one had to be body color roof and fenders. Not an option at that time on Sport, Sport S, etc..
No regrets. And I'll use mine like a truck, and I'll see how it does with my trailer.

I keep questioning the gear ratio - and others push back at me with their logic "shift it manually when towing", that sort of thing. Well - I'll find out next month!
My silverado was a great truck, just too honkin' big and cumbersome for using it for anything other than towing.

I've already accidentally abused this truck with over 1700 pounds of landscape block in the back (thank goodness for the max tow springs back there.
I have the HA, it’s got the bells and whistles, the Alpine stereo is nice, leather dash, but it’s all creature comfort stuff. Worth it to me, but can’t say would be the same for everyone. I drive a lot on the highway, it’s a midsize truck and drives like one. I’ve owned fulled sized trucks and SUVs. All drove a bit different, but weight alone was different. I love my Gladiator, but I loved my Cherokee TrailHawk. It’s a lot more personal preference than hard science with this vehicle.
That's probably the most accurate assessment. I have the HA also and it's the 2nd smoothest ride I've personally owned. Problem is here's my list of previous cars: 92 Cherokee, liberty, gc Laredo, liberty, New design liberty, dodge Dakota, grand Cherokee limited (best ride), liberty, new Cherokee, another new Cherokee (3rd best ride), and HA Gladiator (2nd best ride)

My brother's ram rides nicer and my wife's '10 commander limited still rides nicer. So it is also a huge factor of other cars/trucks you've ridden in/owned.
 

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Suspension builders tune the ride with shocks. Coils set the height.

You didn’t change springs to change the ride. You did it to haul without sagging (height).
So you are saying stiffer springs don't make for a harsher ride? Bunk.
The coils under one of my cars are wrong - the ride is harsh because of it. Springs have to control the rise of the unsprung weight.
The side effect of the springs I put under my truck was a harder riding truck over bumps.
We see that all the time - springs too stiff and the ride is harsh.
Say what you believe - we've had this discussion in other forums of how the spring rate or wire size impacted the ride in a negative way. If the springs are stiff you can only do so much with shocks.
 

flyil

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That's probably the most accurate assessment. I have the HA also and it's the 2nd smoothest ride I've personally owned. Problem is here's my list of previous cars: 92 Cherokee, liberty, gc Laredo, liberty, New design liberty, dodge Dakota, grand Cherokee limited (best ride), liberty, new Cherokee, another new Cherokee (3rd best ride), and HA Gladiator (2nd best ride)

My brother's ram rides nicer and my wife's '10 commander limited still rides nicer. So it is also a huge factor of other cars/trucks you've ridden in/owned.
All things considered, I think my 2021 HA is a better highway ride than my previous car, a 2007 Chrysler 300, and that car is a sofa made for the highway. Ride quality is similar, and the massive tech upgrade makes the Gladiator a better highway cruiser overall.
 

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So you are saying stiffer springs don't make for a harsher ride? Bunk.
The coils under one of my cars are wrong - the ride is harsh because of it. Springs have to control the rise of the unsprung weight.
The side effect of the springs I put under my truck was a harder riding truck over bumps.
We see that all the time - springs too stiff and the ride is harsh.
Say what you believe - we've had this discussion in other forums of how the spring rate or wire size impacted the ride in a negative way. If the springs are stiff you can only do so much with shocks.
I never said springs can’t make for a harsher ride.

I’ll repeat it again in different words. Shocks make the most difference, more than springs, when it comes to how soft or firm the ride is.

I’ve had this discussion in other forums too. I paid attention to what the suspension builders were saying. I’ll provide some links if you like.
 

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New to the Gladiator forum. Is the High Altitude the best Gladiator model for highway use? We currently have a 2015 Tundra Limited Crew Max and a 2016 Wrangler Unlimited. Thinking of trading the Tundra for a Gladiator. However, we have concerns with highway drivability as our Wrangler is horrible on the interstate compared to our Tundra. We use our Tundra for trips to our Georgia cabin driving from FL along the interstate. In GA its 90% paved road use in the NE GA mountains. Occasionally some dirt roads to go hiking or to waterfalls. Recommendations for which Gladiator would be appreciated.
I went overland. I still optioned the leather, 8.4 screen, blind spot, heated seats, etc. Came out significantly cheaper than the HA. Plus I didn’t like the wheels on the HA, but that’s just me. I skipped the LED lights and bought Oracle Oculus from Real Truck (highly recommend).

I just finished a 4,000 mile trip in it. It was very comfortable and easy to drive. I never felt fatigued and enjoyed being in it. And, unlike others, I’ve experienced no wandering steering.
But, wind can be noticeable especially when passing trucks. How fast do you drive? The Jeep doesn’t like to be in the 80’s. It will run in the 70’s fine but there is a noticeable mpg difference between 60’s and 70’s. I think 65-69 is the sweet spot for comfort, speed, and mpg. According to my onboard computer, I average 25mpg on that trip.

Also, I have a hard top with a Sunrider. The Sunrider starts getting loud above 60 if open and above 75 if closed.
 

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I never said springs can’t make for a harsher ride.

I’ll repeat it again in different words. Shocks make the most difference, more than springs, when it comes to how soft or firm the ride is.

I’ve had this discussion in other forums too. I paid attention to what the suspension builders were saying. I’ll provide some links if you like.
I'm interested in links.
I will also go through my college suspension books to refresh things.
 

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Leaf springs on a car does not translate to coils on a Jeep. Not even close.
Coil springs are better. But they still work the same way as leaf springs. (Go drive a F150 with leaf springs, it rides far better than a jeep). Spring rates affect ride hugely. (spring rate is essentially how many lbs it takes to compress the spring a given distance. typically lbs per inch.)

When you hit a bump while driving, how much the suspension compresses depends on 2 factors.

1) spring rate - the bump generates an upward force into the spring. the lower the spring rate, the more the suspension will deflect for the bump.
2) Compression damping - this is how hard the shock absorbers resist upwards movement (compression). Shocks have a separate value which is rebound damping. Which is how much the shocks resist the suspension extending or rebounding.

The voodoo of suspension tuning is selecting spring rates, compression damping and rebound damping that matches the conditions and vehicle requirements.
 
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Sunman54

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Very interesting points. I'm going to go drive a High Alt at another dealer as the only Gladiators, as noted, at my closest dealer was a new Mojave and a used 2020 Overland. Very good suggestion on one of the comments to check the tire pressure.
 

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Coil springs are better. But they still work the same way as leaf springs. (Go drive a F150 with leaf springs, it rides far better than a jeep). Spring rates affect ride hugely. (spring rate is essentially how many lbs it takes to compress the spring a given distance. typically lbs per inch.)

When you hit a bump while driving, how much the suspension compresses depends on 2 factors.

1) spring rate - the bump generates an upward force into the spring. the lower the spring rate, the more the suspension will deflect for the bump.
2) Compression damping - this is how hard the shock absorbers resist upwards movement (compression). Shocks have a separate value which is rebound damping. Which is how much the shocks resist the suspension extending or rebounding.

The voodoo of suspension tuning is selecting spring rates, compression damping and rebound damping that matches the conditions and vehicle requirements.
I drove my F250 4x4 (and hd suspension) to Kansas to pick up an antique engine and engine trucks (the cart the engine would be mounted on for transport).
The engine weighs 2,000 pounds. The trucks - I'm thinking 200+ at least.
The winch truck that loaded the engine into my truck literally had the front wheels off the ground to lift the engine high enough for me to back under it.
Anyway, my truck loaded up, me, my wife and my wife's aunt all headed back to Iowa - everyone commented how wonderfully that truck rode. Barbara's aunt commented "this rides like a Cadillac" and it was on the leaf spring overloads.
On the way TO Kansas was a very different story - rough, bumpy, sort of like a truck I guess.

How about the mass of unsprung components -
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