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How to upgrade electrical power?

2020 Gladi

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I have a 2020 Sport S with tow package. I connected 2 amps and 2 kicker comp 12's. The amps are 1200 watts and 3k watts. I also have a 5 farad capacitor. The bass of the woofers drains the power and makes my lights dim, sometimes the amp with go into protect mode when its a large enough draw. I used 0 gauge wires for the connections. Is upgrading the battery and alternator my best bet?
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sizmtrz

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Reg tow or Max tow. If max tow, the 240 amp alt should suffice. Just install a 0 ga big three kit.
 

Darkamek

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You could install the Genesis dual battery kit. As well as the 0ga big 3 wiring.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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I have a 2020 Sport S with tow package. I connected 2 amps and 2 kicker comp 12's. The amps are 1200 watts and 3k watts. I also have a 5 farad capacitor. The bass of the woofers drains the power and makes my lights dim, sometimes the amp with go into protect mode when its a large enough draw. I used 0 gauge wires for the connections. Is upgrading the battery and alternator my best bet?
You've got at least a 180 amp alternator - if you draw one of those down, you're killing things.
Nothing electrical should ever run off the battery - that's not what batteries are for. All accessories should run from the alternator while the truck is running. Batteries are for surges in needs or when the engine isn't running.

Likely you've got enough draw nothing is going to help.
What's the draw - the true input - those amps are rated for? What's the amperage at 12 or 13 volts?

If 3,000 watts were INPUT needs, for example, if that were input, would kill any alternator and drain a battery in minutes.
Are you trying to blow the panels off the truck LOL
You'll end up like me - severe hearing loss, 6K worth of hearing aids.

You could install the Genesis dual battery kit. As well as the 0ga big 3 wiring.
Bad idea IMO as the alternator is going to run at max output all the time to try to keep up.
 
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You've got at least a 180 amp alternator - if you draw one of those down, you're killing things.
Nothing electrical should ever run off the battery - that's not what batteries are for. All accessories should run from the alternator while the truck is running. Batteries are for surges in needs or when the engine isn't running.

Likely you've got enough draw nothing is going to help.
What's the draw - the true input - those amps are rated for? What's the amperage at 12 or 13 volts?

If 3,000 watts were INPUT needs, for example, if that were input, would kill any alternator and drain a battery in minutes.
Are you trying to blow the panels off the truck LOL
You'll end up like me - severe hearing loss, 6K worth of hearing aids.


Bad idea IMO as the alternator is going to run at max output all the time to try to keep up.
Hahaha those speakers right above my head worry me . I originally installed a 1200 watt amp for the bass but it did the same thing. I decided to try a bigger amp to see if it would make any kind of difference. I have the gain on the amp turned up not even 1/4 of the way. I was thinking since the lights are powered bybthe aux battery, the additional draw takes from both the main and aux battery. Was thinking of bypassing the aux battery and getting a bigger main battery since i already have the 240 alternator
 

ShadowsPapa

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Hahaha those speakers right above my head worry me . I originally installed a 1200 watt amp for the bass but it did the same thing. I decided to try a bigger amp to see if it would make any kind of difference. I have the gain on the amp turned up not even 1/4 of the way. I was thinking since the lights are powered bybthe aux battery, the additional draw takes from both the main and aux battery. Was thinking of bypassing the aux battery and getting a bigger main battery since i already have the 240 alternator
No, the lights are not "powered by the aux battery" - they are powered by the charging system and both batteries. It's all tied together so any load comes from "the system", not any battery.
You are not ever drawing from the aux battery alone unless the truck is stopped by the ESS system (auto stop/start)
When driving, all things are tied together, that means any draw comes from the "system" which is alternator, main and aux battery, all tied together.

Drawing from the batteries will kill them - no matter what system you go with. You should never be drawing from the batteries. The charging system will never keep up on that truck.
Sorry - but bluntly, you are going to see batteries last maybe 1 or 2 years and an alternator worn out sooner than anyone else. The batteries will never be able to fully charge if you truly "dim the lights" with that system on.
That means the alternator can't keep up.

The idea of automotive electric is that all electric loads come from the alternator - not a battery. (been in the business since the 70s). Batteries are for when it's not running or for short spikes like power locks or windows, etc. where there's a brief time the alternator maybe can't handle the load (of course these can handle those loads - that's just for example)
That's why a loaded 1980s car can get by with a 37 amp alternator and still have power windows and locks. The rules still apply today - batteries are a reserve, for starting and short bursts or when the alternator can't keep up.
Otherwise the electric load should never exceed about 80-90% of what an alternator can put out.
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