Got it. Thanks. Just seems to me that if the towing capacity is higher it should do a better job towing. I’m probably looking at it wrong, or missing something important, but who knows.
You’re planning to pull that camper? That’s a very similar setup to what im planning.I have a dump trailer that I pulled with a JKU with a MT loaded it weighed 3400 pounds it did fine even at 70 mph. I also pulled a vintage camper with it. You rarely use sixth on the interstate. I now have a Willys Gladiator and will be pulling my dump trailer loaded later this week.
Thank you!
Believe it or not I pulled that camper with a two door not very far and defiantly not fast, the four door pulls the camper great I am thinking the Gladiator will be even better. Like other posts have said it is how you load your trailer, as long as you have the proper weight on the hitch it will be fine. Mark
I guess that is an option, just hate to do that just to back up into my driveway. I do feel like I'm abusing the clutch a little, or that I'm going to blast up my driveway so fast that I'm going to hit something. It really is the dumbest thing about the truck IMO. I don't really even mind needing to drop to 5th gear when climbing a tall grade at highway speeds.
It's about the same weight i tow, search my posts, or find me on intsagram @gladiatoryyc, you can find my details both places, i have a sport s - 6 speed manual - i am on 37's with 4.88 axles but very little else for mods, i'm reasonably light weight, used a curt echo bluetooth trailer brake controller, i'm happy with set up. If you go up in tire size you will be happier with changing the axle ratio's, 3.73's will be set up best for the little stock tires it has, and as soon as you go past say the 285 75r17's on stock rubicons you'll be struggling. i ran 35's empty for awhile and towing would have been an issue, then i ran 37's briefly on same 3.73's and it was maybe adequate 4-speed for street only, towing would not work in any sort of hills....4.88's however are the ultimate combo for my rig and trailer. If building a heavier jeep than i did then 5.13's would make it on the list but i'm tickled with my build and set up now. No changes coming, just years of driving now.
One thing to keep in mind is the 4000 lb limit with the manual is based on the torque capacity of the clutch/trans., not the basic stability of the JT platform. So one way to think of it is that even at 4000 lb maximum you are well below the theoretical maximum towing capacity of the vehicle.
Big difference between can tow it and should tow it. On the Odyssey, the chassis/hitch are the limiting factor but the powertrain (as evidenced by the Ridgeline) can do more.
that is really cutting it close with the 400 lb max tongue weight.
Thanks. Yeah the tongue weight bothers me the most - or the limited payload that is. I am really getting a mixed bag of responses/opinions, which I really appreciate. Maybe if I get the truck, give it a shot and it's obviously not going to work, then I can switch up on campers. An Aliner Ranger 12, for example, would be well within the parameters. Those trailers are about $1500 dry, and have a tongue weight of approx. 150 lbs.
just to bump that trailer in reverse up onto a curb for a driveway for parking job at your house would require 4 lo, ask me how i know, otherwise you smoke clutch hard, also if you stop on a steep-ish driveway...you'd never get started from a dig without 4 lo...ask me how i know, on a friends super steep country driveway empty i couldn't get started from a dig with 37's with 3.73's without near redline clutch drop and spinning the gravel....if it was pavement i would have needed 4 lo again to get to the top of the driveway, why did i stop? he was coming down so we pulled over to chat and he was gonna turn around come back up....anyway, you've been warned
