is 0W-20 really the right oil ?

[ShadowsPapa]

To review:

- The "0W" indicates the engine will have the protection of a Zero weight oil when it's started cold in "Winter".

- The "20" indicates the engine will have the protection of a Twenty weight oil when it is at operating temperature.

- Thus, a 0W engine oil offers outstanding protection when starting the engine in cold weather. A larger number will not be an improvement here.

- A 20 will give the engine plenty of protection while letting it get to where it needs to be and also providing better MPGs. It doesn't mean the manufacturer is letting the engine wear out faster so it gets better MPG.

Myths:

- "Heavier oil is better." Nope. As mentioned, modern gasoline engines have very tight tolerances. If the manufacturer says a 0W-20 is all you need, that's all you need.

- "Multi-grade oils are junk." Nope. Modern, multi-grade motor oil is pretty amazing stuff. It offers far superior protection over a single-grade oil. The additives that make it a multi-grade oil do break down. And the the greater the difference between the two numbers, the faster those additives break down. But if you change your oil at regular intervals, like at 5,000 miles, this is not an issue.

- "Racing oil is good for a race engine, so it's good for a street engine." Nope. Actual racing oil doesn't have detergents to keep the engine clean. A race car will get the oil changed after every race. And a race engine is designed with completely different tolerances than a street engine. (Some racing oil, like Valvoline VR-1, has a street version which is fine for a street engine. It has extra anti-foaming agents. It's also good for older engines with flat tappet cams that need zinc.)

I'd change the words "protection" in the first sentences to something else........... protection isn't in the viscosity, it's in the film strength.

A less viscous oil will flow better when cold and protect the parts faster than a heavier oil. It also removes heat from bearings and such faster keeping engine temperatures down, and oil temps down in the process.
Lower viscosity oil will also release air trapped in it by the spinning gears, chains and other parts more quickly than heavier oil which will hold the air longer.

Most engine wear takes place during cold start-up before oil flow reaches all the critical internal components. Using oil that is "too thick" when cold will wear the engine faster.

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[DanW]

To review:

- The "0W" indicates the engine will have the protection of a Zero weight oil when it's started cold in "Winter".

- The "20" indicates the engine will have the protection of a Twenty weight oil when it is at operating temperature.

- Thus, a 0W engine oil offers outstanding protection when starting the engine in cold weather. A larger number will not be an improvement here.

- A 20 will give the engine plenty of protection while letting it get to where it needs to be and also providing better MPGs. It doesn't mean the manufacturer is letting the engine wear out faster so it gets better MPG.

Myths:

- "Heavier oil is better." Nope. As mentioned, modern gasoline engines have very tight tolerances. If the manufacturer says a 0W-20 is all you need, that's all you need.

- "Multi-grade oils are junk." Nope. Modern, multi-grade motor oil is pretty amazing stuff. It offers far superior protection over a single-grade oil. The additives that make it a multi-grade oil do break down. And the the greater the difference between the two numbers, the faster those additives break down. But if you change your oil at regular intervals, like at 5,000 miles, this is not an issue.

- "Racing oil is good for a race engine, so it's good for a street engine." Nope. Actual racing oil doesn't have detergents to keep the engine clean. A race car will get the oil changed after every race. And a race engine is designed with completely different tolerances than a street engine. (Some racing oil, like Valvoline VR-1, has a street version which is fine for a street engine. It has extra anti-foaming agents. It's also good for older engines with flat tappet cams that need zinc.)

Outstanding post!