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First oil change....AMSOIL 0w20 or 5w30.

cecaa850

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Warranty denial concerns have me using Pennzoil 0w-20. Otherwise, 5w-30 probably offers better protection. I figure 0w-20 won’t allow too much damage in the first 36k miles, then switch to owner preference.
You realize that the engine is warranted to 60,000 miles right?
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rafaelsmith

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Well just hit 4800 miles so either this weekend or next will be first oil change for my JTR. Oil Life meter shows 46%...not sure how it calculates that or if I trust it....for now going to stick with every ~5k miles.

Got Amsoil 0w20 and Filter waiting. Also ordered a Fumoto valve...had one on my TJ and loved it. Got lazy with the JK and never did my own oil changes with it.
 
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Well just hit 4800 miles so either this weekend or next will be first oil change for my JTR. Oil Life meter shows 46%...not sure how it calculates that or if I trust it....for now going to stick with every ~5k miles.

Got Amsoil 0w20 and Filter waiting. Also ordered a Fumoto valve...had one on my TJ and loved it. Got lazy with the JK and never did my own oil changes with it.
Did my first oil change this past weekend @5029miles. Literally the easiest and quickest oil change I have ever done.
 

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Did my first oil change this past weekend @5029miles. Literally the easiest and quickest oil change I have ever done.
Yes, it is amazingly easy. I have done 3 oil and filter changes so far with 8K miles -- 2K, 5K, 8K.... I am running Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 (FCA certified) with the Mopar oil filters. The first time it took me 1/2 hour, including dumping the old oil. I think I got it down to 20 min. now. The majority of the time is spent pour oil. lol... Thanks FCA for making this so easy !
 

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Any issues with running mobil 1 oil? I see a lot of mention of Pennzoil. I did my first oil change at 1500 miles. At 3500 now so next one is at 4500. I run it in all my vehicles. My JKU has 200K on it and still runs strong.
 

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Any issues with running mobil 1 oil? I see a lot of mention of Pennzoil. I did my first oil change at 1500 miles. At 3500 now so next one is at 4500. I run it in all my vehicles. My JKU has 200K on it and still runs strong.
I also run Mobil 1 in all my other vehicles.... but, I am running Pennzoil Platinum in the Gladiator because it is FCA certified for the Gladiator. Mobil 1 is not.... That is the only reason.

PS. I am also entering and tracking all my maint. information on the FCA online app. for my VIN number..., so, I want to officially document that I am following FCA recommendations for oil changes and type of oil.
 
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rafaelsmith

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Speaking of making it easier.....my one issue was I have really rough pavement on driveway and scratched my arm up pretty bad getting up under the JT. Anyone recommend any low enough profile automotive creepers that would work with JTRs height? I really do not want to have to use ramps.
 
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Any issues with running mobil 1 oil? I see a lot of mention of Pennzoil. I did my first oil change at 1500 miles. At 3500 now so next one is at 4500. I run it in all my vehicles. My JKU has 200K on it and still runs strong.
Never had any issues with Mobile 1 in previous Jeeps.... This time for the JT I did decide to go with Amsoil 0w20....just to be safe with regards to OEM specs.
 

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Thanks for the input guys. I also run mobil 1 in my wife's 5.7 hemi Grand Cherokee and my son's 5.7 Hemi Ram 1500. Just bought 5 6 packs of mobil 1. Think I'll run these through and switch it up to a certified one. I should change the other trucks as well.
 

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It's not just lubrication that the oil is used for anymore, it's also used for hydraulic purposes. Chain tensioners, cam phasers, lash adusters/lifters, the pins that lock the rockers together to switch cam profiles, etc. all run on hydraulic pressure supplied by the oil system. From FCA to their techs on the PUG: "The new Pentastar uses 0W-20 oil, which helps economy and is required for the VVT and VVL systems. "
 
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I find that the EP Mobil 1 oil is considerably quieter than the standard grade Mobil one oil. so all I run is EP version.
 

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Something else to consider is that "Amsoil's Signature Series" oil is NOT API certified. Does the manual say must use oil that meets API certification? For service on client vehicles that are under warranty, I always recommend the "OE Series" oil as it has the API seal on the bottle even though the Signature oils are technically better.

I don't have my truck yet so I cant verify, but does the manual call oil for different weight oils in hotter/cooler climates? Many times what is printed on the 710 cap is not what the manual recomends for your operation conditions and climates. Example: Ford 6.7's have 10W30 on the cap, but over 100°, heavy towing, or biodiesel requires 15W40.......Most people in oil area check all of those boxes.
 

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Warranty denial concerns have me using Pennzoil 0w-20. Otherwise, 5w-30 probably offers better protection. I figure 0w-20 won’t allow too much damage in the first 36k miles, then switch to owner preference.
You would be better off using the lighter weight oil for the first 30k. The tolerances are much tighter at this point and that is why the oil spec is 0W20. As the engine wears then go to 5W30
 

MrZappo

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Does anyone have any real expectation or proof that using the RECOMMENDED 0w20 will ever hurt anything?

Do we actually think that with high quality 0w20 changed on time harm will come?

People need to get with the times.

Oil of any weight is extremely high quality compared to just a few years ago.

Everyone has an opinion and no one has any specific basis for that opinion that they can point to other than barbershop yammering or "my buddy is a mechanic" so I believe him mumbo jumbo.

Just use a high quality synthetic of the proper weight that meets the Chrysler spec, change it on time or early and be happy.

And if anyone can point to any engine that ran 0w20 and blew up or was burnt out at 100k, please educate me.
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