0w 20 or 5w 30

[Hootbro]

I have run 5W-30 and even 5W-40 Euro oil with analysis showing no determent. I am not trying to sell you on the practice so do not ask me to justify it.

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[Cburd61]

I use mineral oil in mine, and blow the filter out with the air hose. Next change, I’m going to filter the oil through a paint strainer, and reuse it.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Any mechanics who read this thread are going to have some crazy eye spasms and muscle twitches by the end of it.

 

[White Eagle]

Avocado oil has a higher smoke point

 

[sharpsicle]

Avocado oil has a higher smoke point

I've found vegetable oil to be cheaper and easier to change. Viscosity is perfect for this engine and the way the color changes when used makes it clear enough for me to know when it's time to drain and replace without trusting the dumb on-board computer. The "motor oil" branding is just that, branding, it's really no different.

 

[RHINO79]

Rough crowd here!!!

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

I love oil threads!!

One point that hasn’t been brought up yet is that after only a few thousand miles ALL oils will start to shear to one degree or another. That means that what has started out as a 20 weight oil at operating temperature may be operating as a 15 or even a 10 weight oil if left in long enough..

Thats one of the reasons I’m running 5W-30 in mine.

Another thing to consider is that dealers don’t have the equipment to determine what oil you’ve been running especially given the above. The only thing they will check to verify is the oil level and perhaps the”color” to see if it’s been changed regularly.

Uh, idk where you're getting youre info from but it's wrong. Not only will a dealer send out a sample to verify the oil, several modern vehicles have a sensor that DOES check viscosity, I know Benz has this on some of their vehicles.

One of my instructors was a Mercedes master tech with over 20 years of experience being a master tech for Mercedes. Lady came in complaining about a seized engine, blaming others for keeping up on OCIs. "Ma'am, this vehicles has sensors for: oil weight, level, capacity, and quality. You can keep changing the story/blame, but at the end of the day the engine came in dry, and the computer confirmed you never changed it in 30k miles, and when you DID add oil, it was the wrong weight."

I'm sold on the 5w30.
Right in the middle of the other "extremes" above & below seems like a beneficial compromise for me.
I am still convinced the lower drag 0w20 became policy to comply with CAFE standards.

It was common for high mileage engines to switch to 5w-30 in the past. Looser tolerances meant more wear at high miles, allowing more blowby. Thicker oils would help combat this slightly, say if you had rings on the way out.

But engines back then also generally used 5w-20 already so going to a 30 weight wasn't that big a deal. Now you have engines with tighter tolerances, more internal moving component which are sensitive to oil weight (aka viscosity), and CAN fail prematurely if the wrong weight it used.

Fluids don't compress, so trying to fit a thicker fluid the the same oil galley at the same rate WILL cause cavitation over time, and can increase pressure (which isn't always good).

Any mechanics who read this thread are going to have some crazy eye spasms and muscle twitches by the end of it.

Yeah, oil threads usually point out who to not listen to or just refuses to educate themselves. Just because it worked for timmy doesn't make it correct. Like all science, sometimes we need to evolve our understanding.

Avocado oil has a higher smoke point

This is like when 7.3 guys say "I run my engine on anything, ATF, vegi oil, heck even kerosene." Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

 

[White Eagle]

How bout Breakfree CLP ?

 

[Minty JL]

5w30 FTW

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Any mechanics who read this thread are going to have some crazy eye spasms and muscle twitches by the end of it.

All of these threads are totally stupid....armchair experts, total non-mechanics with no experience, they mostly are crap. It's really that simple.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm sold on the 5w30.
Right in the middle of the other "extremes" above & below seems like a beneficial compromise for me.
I am still convinced the lower drag 0w20 became policy to comply with CAFE standards.

Yeah, well I need to show you the post from the jo side where the owner used that from day one and lost a cam. Believe whatever you want, it's sure not based on anything solid.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have run 5W-30 and even 5W-40 Euro oil with analysis showing no determent. I am not trying to sell you on the practice so do not ask me to justify it.

All that does is show wear, nothing else, so there is that and it proves nothing other than you likely won't see increased wear IF it's decent oil.

 

[liquidobsession]

Oil viscosity is determined by the pressure sensor on these. As long as the pressure is under a certain threshold the ecm is happy. Always figured it was due to the vvt system. Higher oil pressure results in an unexpected result from the phaser and may cause piston to valve issues is what I always assumed because Chrysler never cared about viscosity so much or had a way to detect it on pre vvt engines including the early hemis. Early pentastars called for 5w30. I doubt the internal clearances have changed. Have not looked. The most important thing is to keep it changed and clean. 20 year mechanic at an independent shop. Running 0w20 till the warranty is out at minimum. Seen enough 200k mile 5.3 gm products running 0w20 to not worry about it much. The real issue is the small roller surface area compared to engines from the 90s and early 2000s combined with more aggressive cam profiles. Asking less to do more rarely works out in the long run.

 

[JTGuy]

The dealer can send a OTA to your JT that will put it in limp mode and cancel your warranty if the oil sensors detect 5-30.

 

[oldironsights]

Yeah, well I need to show you the post from the jo side where the owner used that from day one and lost a cam. Believe whatever you want, it's sure not based on anything solid.

While I like data driven information, I have learned to un-trust it when it conflicts with the knowledge acquired through experience.
There is a performance difference between heavy & light lube oil.
I am mostly deaf, & can both feel & hear the differences between the 0w20 & 5w30 when the engine is running. I can only imagine what others hear. Must be loud!
I cringe when hearing the loud clatter from the Pentastar engine when 0w20 is used & am unable to hear any clatter when 5w30 is used. This is even after using the two-step solution on a rare cold morning in the deep south.
My experience with oil & high mileage engines (mostly Cummins ISL & DD series 60) & all the money I earned towing & repairing vehicles with those engines points me to using the proper oil that maintains proper oil pressure in the environment I operate.
When engine temps rise in the summer along the gulf coast, oil pressure falls.
CEL's & SEL's for elevated coolant temps bring CEL's & SEL's for damaging LEOP.
I like the extra cushion of protection.
A simple & prudent solution is to bump up to the next higher grade to keep the engine alive.
I have replaced many cams in Detroit Diesel series 60 that were due to extremely high fuel injection pressures, so there are more reasons than oil viscosity for a cam failure.
The most wear occurs upon cold start-up.
There is some latency to heavier lubes when cold.
Cold weather is not as common as hot weather down here.
I know how to dance the Pentastar "two-step" before starting a cold engine.
Wear will happen. My experience informs me the more viscous oil will not only resist ingess, but also egress.
Would not a heavier oil remain on station longer than a light weight oil?
I'll just run the 5w30 after pre charging the engine by delaying engine start using the two-step solution.

I still respect the data. I just don't have the "faith" to follow.
I am beginning to think my application of all the Western Auto 10w40 oil I favored may have had something to do with wiping out crankshaft thrust bearings on my 1970 390 Mark Donahue Javelin. 1978 J10, & 1978 Ambassador wagon with their 360 V-8's

PapaShadow!
You may have a valid point.
I was convinced synthetic engine oil is superior, but I have witnessed two engines rapidly fail right after replacing the cheap, low grade replaced with pricey synthetics.

I no longer act on faith or information that belies my experience.
I tend to follow what has brought me success.
If a failure occurs due to the vector chosen, I will then question my efforts.
But until then.................................................

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