Switched from Pennzoil 0W-20 to Amsoil 0W-30 with good results

[Fishpilot]

For what it’s worth. Amsoil claims that their 0w-30 SS is suitable for MS-6395 requirements. I know it’s not official, but does give some reassurance.

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[sharpsicle]

Be careful. Yes Amsoil "claims" it meets certain specs, but they refuse to get it tested to actually be certified. There have been documented cases of Amsoil deferring any responsibility onto the OEM in the event of a failure, and the OEM going back and saying Amsoil isn't certified and therefore shouldn't be used. Meanwhile, you're stuck in the middle with a broken vehicle.

If they just got their oil certified to the specs they claim it meets, I'd recommend them in a heartbeat. Why they don't baffles me, and because of that I only recommend them if you are outside your warranty period.

 

[Fishpilot]

Be careful. Yes Amsoil "claims" it meets certain specs, but they refuse to get it tested to actually be certified. There have been documented cases of Amsoil deferring any responsibility onto the OEM in the event of a failure, and the OEM going back and saying Amsoil isn't certified and therefore shouldn't be used. Meanwhile, you're stuck in the middle with a broken vehicle.

If they just got their oil certified to the specs they claim it meets, I'd recommend them in a heartbeat. Why they don't baffles me, and because of that I only recommend them if you are outside your warranty period.

I believe that Amsoil has a line of oil called Amsoil OE series that has the various certification.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oe-0w-20-100-synthetic-motor-oil-oez/

 

[sharpsicle]

I believe that Amsoil has a line of oil called Amsoil OE series that has the various certification.

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-oe-0w-20-100-synthetic-motor-oil-oez/

Nowhere does it say they're certified to any specific specification. This is why you need to be careful, Amsoil says they're "for use in" engines calling for certain certifications, but they specifically do not say the oil itself carries that certification. They're playing the game of "it's equivalent based on our own internal data". The only certification they have is for use in gasoline engines, but that's not a spec called out by any OEM.

This is because Amsoil refuses to get their oil certified.

Also read their warranty carefully, as it talks a lot about how you have to go to the OEM for a warranty claim first and get them to deny it, likely at your own expense of a teardown and analysis, and only then can you go to Amsoil and fight for coverage from them.

Don't get me wrong, I think Amsoil makes good stuff and have used it many times, but I would never use it in something under OEM warranty because of all their disclaimers about it and refusal to obtain certifications. Once my powertrain warranty is gone, I'll likely use them, but not before.

 

[g2020]

Be careful. Yes Amsoil "claims" it meets certain specs, but they refuse to get it tested to actually be certified. There have been documented cases of Amsoil deferring any responsibility onto the OEM in the event of a failure, and the OEM going back and saying Amsoil isn't certified and therefore shouldn't be used. Meanwhile, you're stuck in the middle with a broken vehicle.

If they just got their oil certified to the specs they claim it meets, I'd recommend them in a heartbeat. Why they don't baffles me, and because of that I only recommend them if you are outside your warranty period.

See this post for a table that includes AMSOIL SS, AMSOIL OE, and several other motor oil options. Below the same table (Table 1.5) in Links to Prices, there is an explanation of why AMSOIL and RED LINE don't get their best motor oils licensed (see image below). Answer: To keep prices down and stay nimble.

 

[sharpsicle]

See this post for a table that includes AMSOIL SS, AMSOIL OE, and several other motor oil options. Below the same table (Table 1.5) in Links to Prices, there is an explanation of why AMSOIL and RED LINE don't get their best motor oils licensed (see image below). Answer: To keep prices down and stay nimble.

Oh I am well aware it's because they don't want to spend money. But then they're not certified, and OEMs have denied claims because of that. Do you really want to get wrapped up in that, right or wrong?

 

[g2020]

Oh I am well aware it's because they don't want to spend money. But then they're not certified, and OEMs have denied claims because of that. Do you really want to get wrapped up in that, right or wrong?

You said you were baffled. I answered. AMSOIL OE is licensed as API SQ (RC), and RED LINE PS is licensed as API SP (RC). I have no affiliation with AMSOIL or RED LINE. I don't care who's right or wrong. The facts speak for themselves.

 

[sharpsicle]

You said you were baffled. I answered. AMSOIL OE is licensed as API SQ (RC), and RED LINE PS is licensed as API SP (RC). I have no affiliation with AMSOIL or RED LINE. I don't care who's right or wrong. The facts speak for themselves.

Holy semantics, Batman. I’m just trying to keep things on the level. Not nitpick someone’s choice of words and gloss over the whole point. Please respect that.

 

[FC1]

I have been running Rotella T6 in all my vehicles, heavy machinery, motorcycles, and my 3.0 Gladiator. I have a generator that is approaching 30,000 hrs with out an overhaul, a truck with 285k, same story. I know that Jeep wants us to use euro trash oil. However if they wanted to not honor a warranty, they would have to PROVE the oil caused the failure. Not that I had much worries about warranties as I voided mine when the JT had 68 miles on it.

Me too

 

[Gumby65]

Most companies make spark timing as aggressive as possible for the lowest grade fuel possible for best efficiency and economy.

When 87 octane is in the tank, mostly during hot weather (80 degrees and higher), the knock sensor picks up ping/pre-ignition noise, long before it becomes audible to the human ear. The factory spark timing is very very aggressive. For us, ping sounds like marbles in a tin can and there are many posts around this forum complaining about it.

Anyways, the engine detects this knock and pulls spark from the engine, up to 8-12 degrees. For each degree of spark timing pulled, you are losing about 3-4 horsepower and 3-4 pound feet of torque.

I regularly see these have “long term” knock retard of 5-8 degrees at wide open throttle during the hot weather with 87 octane in the tank. This long term knock is a learned strategy. Essentially the ECU has learned that your fuel sucks and it pulls timing in advance to prevent issues.

This is mostly a non issue in cold months. But in the summer, this is why often people report better power/MPG with premium in the tank.

There is a workaround on using 87 octane, you can use it and drop a bottle of amsoil quickshot in the tank before filling up. It'll raise the 87 octane up to 90-92 octane, for vehicles driving on the roads. If you're using your vehicle mostly off-roading then you can legally use amsoil dominator octane boost. This latter additive is strictly for off-road use as it will give you the most complete burn of fuel, along with cleaning out all the built up carbon deposits on the heads and intake(due to the egr valve), ports.
As a side note; I've been using amsoil since '84, in everything i have owned. it definitely makes a huge difference not just in lubrication but in cooling of high heat areas.

Keep the Shiny side up & I hope to see Y'all out there.
Gumby

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