Jeep reliability - most common issues?

[CJ99x]

What's the year of your XJ - and the engine?
Possibly can help, depending on year and engine.

I found me a 4.0 manifold Yesterday down in Princeton. But I appreciate the offer. This ole 98 model I use to run the woods with during hunting season so there is no hurry. She does good just me and that old manifold which you know is common have had a few rounds over the years.

Sponsored

 

[AlxCZ]

LOL - seriously?
So you visit hospitals to see how healthy people are?
Forums are crap for finding reliability. The internet is where people gather to complain, get validation for their complaints and find comfort in "me, too" responses.
They don't break down any more than half the vehicles out there, and less than many.

So, no, they don't.
I've owned Jeeps for years, can't say we've had "break down" problems.
(brake is what stops a car or truck, break is when something is broken or comes apart)
I'm on my second Gladiator - can't say anything has actually "broken" unless it was my doing. Anything that's ever happened to any of our Jeeps was minor and easily taken care of by a dealer.

Oh what a perfect life! The fact is some of us have encountered issues with our vehicles and basically, the purpose of posting on forums about our issues, is basically to get a feel possibly, for what results or outcomes one can expect. The shallowness is there as well, or as you put it,..."me too", but I sure hope the goal for this forum is to gain knowledge and share ideas and thoughts. At least that's my goal.

 

[Casique]

Two years of ownership today and zero visits to the dealer. Most reliable vehicle I've ever had, I'm 60!

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Oh what a perfect life! The fact is some of us have encountered issues with our vehicles and basically, the purpose of posting on forums about our issues, is basically to get a feel possibly, for what results or outcomes one can expect. The shallowness is there as well, or as you put it,..."me too", but I sure hope the goal for this forum is to gain knowledge and share ideas and thoughts. At least that's my goal.

Ok, I’ll be the odd one here. I agree with reaching out on line to read reviews from other drivers. Before I bought my 21 JTR, I sat down with my sales guy and asked, “what chronic issues are we seeing from the 2020 and 2021 JTR’s”? Good question, right? Just doing my part in making an informed decision.

Sales guy looked at me(deer in the headlights moment) and asked “what do you mean? I haven’t heard of anything.” (REALLY??, I’m thinking) I told him I needed to talk with the service manager before I make my decision and he went and got him. So then we had a great talk, the service manager and I, and I felt it best to skip the 2020 and bought the 21. Figured they would have worked out any first year issues,….so I thought.

Picked up my new JTR, gas, auto Feb 2021 and changed oil at 1000km. Oil analysis showed coolant in the oil. I did 6 oil changes in 32k kms, all showed coolant consumption.

At 16k kms my engine misfired a couple times, P0302 #2 cylinder.

Truck went in for repair along with my 3 coolant consuming oil analysis reports (at that time). FCA engineer, NORM was fine with that and signed off with just replacing the camshaft. Service Advisor told me “it’s normal for coolant to be in the oil.” My truck would sit outside in the lot for nearly 50 days with the top of the engine off and rags covering it until the camshaft arrived. Oil analysis showed the engine got dirtier just sitting there and service bay doors wide open letting the dust storms blow in while the techs wrenched around in there.

I’m on my 3rd transmission. First one’s internals blew up at 32k kms. Oil analysis showed glycol contamination and catastrophic levels of copper and iron and took it to dealership and was told Chrysler won’t see this as broken so I can either pay $3200 for two pan drops to remove the glycol or break it because I have a good warranty. So I tried to fix it according to the book and performed a flush and put in Amsoil instead of Mopar. Tranny blew up 8k later and my warranty was voided for using Amsoil. Amsoil fired back and said the glycol destroyed the tranny but FCA was fine with glycol in there and said “but it ran until I put Amsoil in there.”

At the end of the day, ZF in Germany (transmission designer) said “Amsoil is not an equivalent oil and not approved”. So as of today, it is understood by all parties Amsoil produced a false data sheet containing the spec codes for this transmission when the German manufacturer did not approve.

New dealership wanted to look at the blown transmission to determine why glycol was in the transmission in the first place as no one asked this at the beginning. They looked it over and said there is nothing mechanically wrong and said glycol contamination was deliberate. They put it in writing and I filed a vandalism claim with my insurance company.

Claim was approved and they tossed in a new engine as well. The several adjusters and claims manager who worked on this file for 4 months were disgusted in Chrysler hanging me out to dry on this.

So,…second transmission went in and a whine was heard @500kms. Tech said it was planetary gears and transmission was replaced. (I have a good warranty)

Third transmission went in and same whine was heard. Dealership said FCA engineer said this is “normal”. So I’ve driven it about 14k now. I still hear whine in 1st and 2nd but it shifts great and runs strong.

I’m also on my 3rd power steering pump. #1 and 2 power steering pump quit and both replaced. So far so good with the 3rd one. I did find an air lock in all three pumps of 1/2 litre so I believe all pumps have an air lock. It’s good to assume that and just get the front end up off the ground, tilt the passenger side up slightly higher, crack the steering reservoir lid, stuff rags around to catch the fart thats coming and steer lock to lock 30 + sets to chase the air out.

Today….truck is awesome, it’s great! It puts a smile on my face and I love hanging out with others over coffee in the parking lots and telling our stories.

 

[BearFootSam]

In 2008 I bought a Sahara Unlimited JK. My second JEEP, after having a 1966 Gladiator. The JK is still with me, 133,000 miles later. Low mileage I suppose but I love it. These days at 689 years old its gone from mild off roading on the farm, to less driving it on pavement. In its modest variety of use from tough to pavement use, its never failed to get me there. One door lock intermittent, replaced. One EGR valve stuck in closed position (no driving issue, just emissions go high) replaced. Aside from maintenance parts replacements like plugs, wires, belt, two rear shocks after one appeared leaky but still seemed to be doing its job, brakes, tires, etc; normal things you expect or should replace in time - zip, nada, zero, nothing else. Oh, three windshields but living near a rock quarry with their trucks on the road all the time, hello.

Now there has been some recalls but no more than my wifes SUBARU Forester or previous HONDA Pilot. I did have an itty bitty oil leak, apparently from the rear of the intake manifold. Local dealer took care of that under my factory lifetime powertrain warranty (which was a new JK promotional thing). And that is it. Maybe one of my doors needs new hinge pins as it is a bit "draggy" to open. Passenger seat belt doesn't want to fully retract but a little jiggle, and retracts fully. I do change the rear Trac-loc (limited slip) differential fluid more often than recommended as, I think the clutch plates dirty up the fluid visibly, faster than the front Dana. I am utterly impressed with this JEEP. Even don't mind the comparitive sluggo 3.8 liter engine vs the 2010-later Pentastar 3.6 l. Which I have in a RAM Promaster 3500EXT/WINNEBAGO Travato dealing with something about 8,500-ish pounds of weight.

That bugger actually does a decent job up and down 6% grades which amazes my wife and I both. And I might add, a flabberghasting ability to average above 17 mpg on every single long distance trip. Around town only, its a bit of a pig but you can imagine stop sign/light starts pulling that kind of weigth. Point being that engine never complains and is quite spry for this duty.

My wife and I can complain about high frontal or cross winds where the recirculating ball steering can wear on you mentally and physically if practicing keeping in your lane on a longer trip. Brick shape and not rack and pinion combine to make that a bit of work. But the type of steering hardware chosen for the Wrangler and Gladiator makes total sense for its off road basis. Frankly speaking; if your getting a Wrangler or Gladiator for looks but drive it mostly on pavement or maintained dirty/gravel roads, you don't need either one of these vehicles. You might pay even $10,000 less for a FORD Ranger, NISSAN Frontier or if your legs are on the shorter side, a TOYOTA Tacoma could be a comfortable buy. HONDA Ridgeline fits fundamental bed size but its priced about the same as a Gladiator. Road princess or truly want, or need off-road? Gladiator to me is the top of the list. Period. Because of my experience with the JK, I am about to buy a JL Gladiator; hence my joining this group a few months back. But why did I join this group before having a JL?

You have to understand my wife and I take a looong time to buy vehicles. Before and after we met and married. And we keep them a long time. A bit over a year before we took a check into our local RV dealer to buy the last vehicle, the RAM/WINNEBAGO (Travato). Dealer didn't accept our offer by the way. We have a thing where we thank them nicely while still standing, and exit not on a run but not slowly either. Plan B was another same-equipped unit about 500 miles away. Same check in hand; completed the acceptance. Then we sat down and processed paper. The point for this paragraph; we treat them nice even if the dealer folks lean toward, well, slimy. We don't do the back and forth thing. We don't buy ANY extras from the dealer, including extended warranties. You can get those in different channels, even after purchase completed within a short time. We already have worked out what Insurance will cost us. We already know what Title fees and local tax will be, all included in our check which is already funded. Your going to have to break your piggy bank and/or do part (or some might do all?) a loan anyway. You can usually do better with a bank or credit union rates, and pre-approval. How that plays out can make a difference in whether you can waltz into a dealer with a check in hand or not which believe me, really works but just having pre-approval for X amount really saves you sit-down time at a dealer. Just know that if you have credit checks taking place, each one can your current credit score number before you chose one to use. Put the ball in your court. But you have to maintain total nice-person at the dealer. Abstain from smirks, digs, frowns, concerned or unsure-of glancing at your wife or whomever came with you a lot; your losing control.

Trade-ins. Your going to dealer jail if your going to let them work with a trade-in. Don't do that. Sell it yourself. Easier said than done for many. Having people visit you and drive your still-necessary ride may invade your life. Could even be risky. Work it out, don't do a trade-in. This presents a variable that cannot be used in the above. Regardless of your insistence of exactly X dollars for your used vehicle, i is probably going to get you hung up, in a sit down with the dealer person leaving the room a few times, coming back each time with a negotiation. Could be a shocking insult for your baby. That maybe has some fault(s) that you are not telling them? If so, isn't this looking a bit like ALFRED E NUEMAN's Spy vs Spy?

Yes... it can be a pain in the rear axle to self-sell your used vehicle. Sometimes can take weeks or months. What you want for your proud possession might have to be dropped a lot. Well gee; does it hurt less if you sell for what the dealer trade-in offer comes too? They can off-it to an auction or keep it on their lot, longer than you might want to sell it for on your own but in the end, if you trade-it in for instant gratification of that shiny new Gladiator, hours after you walked into the dealer, your already going to sell it to the dealer for less. What? You got what you wanted, if you think you could have sold it to Tom, Dick or Harry on your own? The price of that Gladiator will have been adjusted, or that extended maintenance contract will not get lowered as much as the dealer could, to make sure their profit margin makes for good commissions and end of year bonus checks. You do realize your money adds to the pockets of not just the sales person at the dealer, right? The salesperson that disappears part way through the sit-down in the wheel and deal stage, never to be seen again in that office or cubicle until signatures are completed.

Yes - Been there, done that myself with my first new car purchase, many , many years ago. Seemed fine. Dad did this every three-four years when he bought a new family car and always traded in the old ride. I still miss our cavornous 1959 CHEVROLET Kingswood station wagon to this day that he traded that in for a 1962 Corvair Monza.


So.... However you mull over getting a new or used vehicle, you will find all sorts of things people complain about. Even TOYOTA's which I think are still typically good but frankly mass production to feed the world puts a dent in their shiny armor too. To me, the Gladiator doesn't have more issues than the next ride, except maybe the diesel engine has had a bit more real-life trouble. Some guys (mostly guys I think) will complain the Pentastar isn't the right engine, isn't powerful enough to go fast or "right" for their type of off-road use. Still steers like a truck; gee because a JK, JL and JT are truck framed and recirculating ball steering trucks. And having the max tow package means the rear axle is a higher ratio that will get you less street mpg. And then add some 37 inch tires and higher ground clearance and weight and air flow limiting additions; its no longer as-original truckish smooth, turning radius, steering (cough) precise as it was when you bought the new-new, stock JT. Multi-purpose street and rock vehicle will have some pros and cons but for looks or real off road use, if it does want you want or need, just know it may have a few drawbacks in other situations. Driving back and forth to work 5 days a week might become less enchanting in the tricked out JT from the driving perspective. Stuck in stop and go traffic. Enjoying that JT model you wanted with the manual transmission every day in that stop and go traffic.

Finally; perfect timing re my experience last night at a dealer, test driving a nicely equipped Overland versus a Freedom. Overland had wider, leaning toward more toward fundamental off-road type factory wheels & tires. the Freedom had what I am after today; more street like tires and wheels. Both had utomatic transmissons. The Overland had 3.73 rear axle ratio, because it did not have the Max tow package. The Freedom had the Max tow package so that means it had the 4.10 ratio rear axle. Both of these rear axles had trac-lok (limited slip). How did they drive; street-wise? Honestly, not sure I could tell the difference in rear axle ratio vs acceleration and passive driving between these two JT's on the same exact path I drove both of them. same evening, thus same temp, wind (none perceived), foot and steering actions, etc.

Nearly identical in every way. As I expected but there were two differences I could feel: The wider tread/different tread tires on the Overland did have a slight (very slight) higher turning grip feedback in the steering wheel. A difference that my mind and body adapted too very quickly but it was there; briefly. The second thing I noticed was interesting; Executing turns and even one full circle (not quite lock-to-lock) in the Freedom, presented a slight jump in the trac-loc clutches grabbing just a bit. OR... it could have to do with the Selec-trac transfer case that on this drive, I had left in 4WD Auto, vs the Command-Trac, part time, which was in 2WD. My first experience with Selec-trac, I probably should have done another test in 2WD instead of Auto. That would have made it samo-samo and then for sure I would have been comparing only the trac-loc clutches. End result is they both really performed pretty identical in this micro test. Which means no actual 4WD testing. I am very familier with 4-Hi and 4-Low operation with the Command-trac and trac-loc that I have now in the JK. A setup that I am perfectly happy with on the streets and highway on severe ice or deeper than desired snow on roads and my own acreage. Flipping in and out of 4-Hi when in motion, on the fly, works great. 55 mph or less. Its not meant to be engaged above 55 I think; never tried. And think anyone driving on ice or deep snow at high-high speeds would be crazy anyway. MPG? If your worried about MPG, then you buy something else. Green? Well its not that but its not the worst in the world either. It is very good that this is changing but still some kinks to work out in total EV land. Infrustructure more so than battery technology.

SIDEBAR: Snow rated tires DO provide lower stopping distances on ice. But M&S tires do a decent job, as far as one can go on ice which can always tricky with anything on wheels.

I think I might like Selec-trac. I know if my wife drove a JEEP in the Winter, she would be at-home with Selec-trac since her beloved Forester is an AWD and thus no need to flip anything in or out of 4WD like I do with Command-trac. Mostly here in N Idaho, Coeur d'Alene area, I drive winters in 2WD with occasions to row the lever into 4-Hi. Some winters mean I use 4-Hi more of the time, mentally remembering to take it out on moderate to tight turns. THAT makes Selec-trac a nicer option for street-driving so I think I will go with Selec-trac on the JT I/we purchase this go around.

I hope this long winded info helps. Real world reliability and absolutely a blast to drive, even in my older years of just street & highway driving nowadays, I truly love my JEEPS past and present driveability, super vision out of all the windows, and for me personally, my numerous changes to accessory wiring needs for various HF, VHF and UHF radio systems as a ham radio guy. The Wranglers and Gladiators lend themselves to tinkering. And a final nod to the Gladiator; it rides and steers WAY better than my JK. And a lot quieter at speed too. And here comes the blanket statement re what you want or need out of a roady, off-road specific or mixed use vehicle:

"Your mileage may vary"

I am utterly impressed by the time you put into writing that up! Well said.

 

[GOT FLOYD]

In 2008 I bought a Sahara Unlimited JK. My second JEEP, after having a 1966 Gladiator. The JK is still with me, 133,000 miles later. Low mileage I suppose but I love it. These days at 689 years old its gone from mild off roading on the farm, to less driving it on pavement. In its modest variety of use from tough to pavement use, its never failed to get me there. One door lock intermittent, replaced. One EGR valve stuck in closed position (no driving issue, just emissions go high) replaced. Aside from maintenance parts replacements like plugs, wires, belt, two rear shocks after one appeared leaky but still seemed to be doing its job, brakes, tires, etc; normal things you expect or should replace in time - zip, nada, zero, nothing else. Oh, three windshields but living near a rock quarry with their trucks on the road all the time, hello.

Now there has been some recalls but no more than my wifes SUBARU Forester or previous HONDA Pilot. I did have an itty bitty oil leak, apparently from the rear of the intake manifold. Local dealer took care of that under my factory lifetime powertrain warranty (which was a new JK promotional thing). And that is it. Maybe one of my doors needs new hinge pins as it is a bit "draggy" to open. Passenger seat belt doesn't want to fully retract but a little jiggle, and retracts fully. I do change the rear Trac-loc (limited slip) differential fluid more often than recommended as, I think the clutch plates dirty up the fluid visibly, faster than the front Dana. I am utterly impressed with this JEEP. Even don't mind the comparitive sluggo 3.8 liter engine vs the 2010-later Pentastar 3.6 l. Which I have in a RAM Promaster 3500EXT/WINNEBAGO Travato dealing with something about 8,500-ish pounds of weight.

That bugger actually does a decent job up and down 6% grades which amazes my wife and I both. And I might add, a flabberghasting ability to average above 17 mpg on every single long distance trip. Around town only, its a bit of a pig but you can imagine stop sign/light starts pulling that kind of weigth. Point being that engine never complains and is quite spry for this duty.

My wife and I can complain about high frontal or cross winds where the recirculating ball steering can wear on you mentally and physically if practicing keeping in your lane on a longer trip. Brick shape and not rack and pinion combine to make that a bit of work. But the type of steering hardware chosen for the Wrangler and Gladiator makes total sense for its off road basis. Frankly speaking; if your getting a Wrangler or Gladiator for looks but drive it mostly on pavement or maintained dirty/gravel roads, you don't need either one of these vehicles. You might pay even $10,000 less for a FORD Ranger, NISSAN Frontier or if your legs are on the shorter side, a TOYOTA Tacoma could be a comfortable buy. HONDA Ridgeline fits fundamental bed size but its priced about the same as a Gladiator. Road princess or truly want, or need off-road? Gladiator to me is the top of the list. Period. Because of my experience with the JK, I am about to buy a JL Gladiator; hence my joining this group a few months back. But why did I join this group before having a JL?

You have to understand my wife and I take a looong time to buy vehicles. Before and after we met and married. And we keep them a long time. A bit over a year before we took a check into our local RV dealer to buy the last vehicle, the RAM/WINNEBAGO (Travato). Dealer didn't accept our offer by the way. We have a thing where we thank them nicely while still standing, and exit not on a run but not slowly either. Plan B was another same-equipped unit about 500 miles away. Same check in hand; completed the acceptance. Then we sat down and processed paper. The point for this paragraph; we treat them nice even if the dealer folks lean toward, well, slimy. We don't do the back and forth thing. We don't buy ANY extras from the dealer, including extended warranties. You can get those in different channels, even after purchase completed within a short time. We already have worked out what Insurance will cost us. We already know what Title fees and local tax will be, all included in our check which is already funded. Your going to have to break your piggy bank and/or do part (or some might do all?) a loan anyway. You can usually do better with a bank or credit union rates, and pre-approval. How that plays out can make a difference in whether you can waltz into a dealer with a check in hand or not which believe me, really works but just having pre-approval for X amount really saves you sit-down time at a dealer. Just know that if you have credit checks taking place, each one can your current credit score number before you chose one to use. Put the ball in your court. But you have to maintain total nice-person at the dealer. Abstain from smirks, digs, frowns, concerned or unsure-of glancing at your wife or whomever came with you a lot; your losing control.

Trade-ins. Your going to dealer jail if your going to let them work with a trade-in. Don't do that. Sell it yourself. Easier said than done for many. Having people visit you and drive your still-necessary ride may invade your life. Could even be risky. Work it out, don't do a trade-in. This presents a variable that cannot be used in the above. Regardless of your insistence of exactly X dollars for your used vehicle, i is probably going to get you hung up, in a sit down with the dealer person leaving the room a few times, coming back each time with a negotiation. Could be a shocking insult for your baby. That maybe has some fault(s) that you are not telling them? If so, isn't this looking a bit like ALFRED E NUEMAN's Spy vs Spy?

Yes... it can be a pain in the rear axle to self-sell your used vehicle. Sometimes can take weeks or months. What you want for your proud possession might have to be dropped a lot. Well gee; does it hurt less if you sell for what the dealer trade-in offer comes too? They can off-it to an auction or keep it on their lot, longer than you might want to sell it for on your own but in the end, if you trade-it in for instant gratification of that shiny new Gladiator, hours after you walked into the dealer, your already going to sell it to the dealer for less. What? You got what you wanted, if you think you could have sold it to Tom, Dick or Harry on your own? The price of that Gladiator will have been adjusted, or that extended maintenance contract will not get lowered as much as the dealer could, to make sure their profit margin makes for good commissions and end of year bonus checks. You do realize your money adds to the pockets of not just the sales person at the dealer, right? The salesperson that disappears part way through the sit-down in the wheel and deal stage, never to be seen again in that office or cubicle until signatures are completed.

Yes - Been there, done that myself with my first new car purchase, many , many years ago. Seemed fine. Dad did this every three-four years when he bought a new family car and always traded in the old ride. I still miss our cavornous 1959 CHEVROLET Kingswood station wagon to this day that he traded that in for a 1962 Corvair Monza.


So.... However you mull over getting a new or used vehicle, you will find all sorts of things people complain about. Even TOYOTA's which I think are still typically good but frankly mass production to feed the world puts a dent in their shiny armor too. To me, the Gladiator doesn't have more issues than the next ride, except maybe the diesel engine has had a bit more real-life trouble. Some guys (mostly guys I think) will complain the Pentastar isn't the right engine, isn't powerful enough to go fast or "right" for their type of off-road use. Still steers like a truck; gee because a JK, JL and JT are truck framed and recirculating ball steering trucks. And having the max tow package means the rear axle is a higher ratio that will get you less street mpg. And then add some 37 inch tires and higher ground clearance and weight and air flow limiting additions; its no longer as-original truckish smooth, turning radius, steering (cough) precise as it was when you bought the new-new, stock JT. Multi-purpose street and rock vehicle will have some pros and cons but for looks or real off road use, if it does want you want or need, just know it may have a few drawbacks in other situations. Driving back and forth to work 5 days a week might become less enchanting in the tricked out JT from the driving perspective. Stuck in stop and go traffic. Enjoying that JT model you wanted with the manual transmission every day in that stop and go traffic.

Finally; perfect timing re my experience last night at a dealer, test driving a nicely equipped Overland versus a Freedom. Overland had wider, leaning toward more toward fundamental off-road type factory wheels & tires. the Freedom had what I am after today; more street like tires and wheels. Both had utomatic transmissons. The Overland had 3.73 rear axle ratio, because it did not have the Max tow package. The Freedom had the Max tow package so that means it had the 4.10 ratio rear axle. Both of these rear axles had trac-lok (limited slip). How did they drive; street-wise? Honestly, not sure I could tell the difference in rear axle ratio vs acceleration and passive driving between these two JT's on the same exact path I drove both of them. same evening, thus same temp, wind (none perceived), foot and steering actions, etc.

Nearly identical in every way. As I expected but there were two differences I could feel: The wider tread/different tread tires on the Overland did have a slight (very slight) higher turning grip feedback in the steering wheel. A difference that my mind and body adapted too very quickly but it was there; briefly. The second thing I noticed was interesting; Executing turns and even one full circle (not quite lock-to-lock) in the Freedom, presented a slight jump in the trac-loc clutches grabbing just a bit. OR... it could have to do with the Selec-trac transfer case that on this drive, I had left in 4WD Auto, vs the Command-Trac, part time, which was in 2WD. My first experience with Selec-trac, I probably should have done another test in 2WD instead of Auto. That would have made it samo-samo and then for sure I would have been comparing only the trac-loc clutches. End result is they both really performed pretty identical in this micro test. Which means no actual 4WD testing. I am very familier with 4-Hi and 4-Low operation with the Command-trac and trac-loc that I have now in the JK. A setup that I am perfectly happy with on the streets and highway on severe ice or deeper than desired snow on roads and my own acreage. Flipping in and out of 4-Hi when in motion, on the fly, works great. 55 mph or less. Its not meant to be engaged above 55 I think; never tried. And think anyone driving on ice or deep snow at high-high speeds would be crazy anyway. MPG? If your worried about MPG, then you buy something else. Green? Well its not that but its not the worst in the world either. It is very good that this is changing but still some kinks to work out in total EV land. Infrustructure more so than battery technology.

SIDEBAR: Snow rated tires DO provide lower stopping distances on ice. But M&S tires do a decent job, as far as one can go on ice which can always tricky with anything on wheels.

I think I might like Selec-trac. I know if my wife drove a JEEP in the Winter, she would be at-home with Selec-trac since her beloved Forester is an AWD and thus no need to flip anything in or out of 4WD like I do with Command-trac. Mostly here in N Idaho, Coeur d'Alene area, I drive winters in 2WD with occasions to row the lever into 4-Hi. Some winters mean I use 4-Hi more of the time, mentally remembering to take it out on moderate to tight turns. THAT makes Selec-trac a nicer option for street-driving so I think I will go with Selec-trac on the JT I/we purchase this go around.

I hope this long winded info helps. Real world reliability and absolutely a blast to drive, even in my older years of just street & highway driving nowadays, I truly love my JEEPS past and present driveability, super vision out of all the windows, and for me personally, my numerous changes to accessory wiring needs for various HF, VHF and UHF radio systems as a ham radio guy. The Wranglers and Gladiators lend themselves to tinkering. And a final nod to the Gladiator; it rides and steers WAY better than my JK. And a lot quieter at speed too. And here comes the blanket statement re what you want or need out of a roady, off-road specific or mixed use vehicle:

"Your mileage may vary"

BAM...I'm outta breath after that

 

[tastetickles]

2020 Rubicon here, less than 2000 miles so I can’t comment on reliability. But I have a Ford Focus RS and a Subaru Sti, my Sti had valve cover leak, shifter mounting issues, pcv valve failure in 50k miles, the RS went thru 5 abs sensor and a very expensive powered side mirror in the first 5000 miles but I love the car.

I could play it safe and bought a Hilux which is half the price of the Jeep with a ton of mods available and proven reliability where I’m from in Asia but wanted a Jeep. Don’t settle for less, don’t be that “I should have” person.

 

[Solar Sparky]

Iam interested in purchasing a gladiator, I keep hearing that jeeps brake down a lot.If so what is the most common issues

I have to agree with many of these comments, and add that people buy jeeps to really use them, and eventually something might happen when you are pushing the limits of your vehicle. That’s a risk that you weigh when you go out 4wheeling. That said, if you buy a vehicle that’s designed for some harsh conditions, and you just use it to run errands, chances are, you’ll be fine. I’ve been driving Jeep since the 90’s. We just gave away our last grand Cherokee, at 310,000 miles, to get a new one

 

[Solar Sparky]

Exactly

Most common issue for my ‘21 gladiator Mojave, is that it 4-wheels like a beast, and I just can’t stop myself from taking it out as often as possible

 

[tysongladiator]

2020 Gladiator Overland purchased new. Still bone stock except for minor add-ons (Shorty antenna, Best top Sunrider, Mesh Sunshade). 61k miles no issues. My 2 cents: don't install anything (lift kit, oversize anything or items that affect ride geometry or put undue strain on stock parts) unless you -really- know what you are doing or use a quality installer with a good reputation. Keep up with all routine maintenance.

When i leave for a 1200 mile roundtrip, I'm still very confident that nothing major will happen on the mechanical side.

Correct! The keywords in your comment was really know what you are doing or use a quality installer.

I have a 2020 (June 2019) Overland. SO much has been changed. Lifted, tires/wheels, stereo, rear window, rear tail lights, lockers

Most common issue for my ‘21 gladiator Mojave, is that it 4-wheels like a beast, and I just can’t stop myself from taking it out as often as possible

Mic drop!

 

[Pioneer7]

Iam interested in purchasing a gladiator, I keep hearing that jeeps brake down a lot.If so what is the most common issues

Me and my friends will tell you Chevy's break down all the time. Its prob not true either.

 

[D10S86]

Usually forums and social media are a source of the those who are complaining. Rightfully so, but there are far more people who have not had any issues at all. Take a look at the big 3 YouTubers. Ozark overland adventures, Trail Recon, and Story Till Now. They put a lot of HARD miles on their jeeps with relatively trouble free miles.

My 06 TJ has been the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned - if that means anything.

This is a flawed argument. All vehicles are able to be discussed on social media or in personal groups but somehow American vehicles seem to always come up and the Hondas and Toyotas of the world are rarely heard of.

Those YouTubers have a jeep following, they won’t bite the hand that feeds them…

 

[D10S86]

LOL - seriously?
So you visit hospitals to see how healthy people are?
Forums are crap for finding reliability. The internet is where people gather to complain, get validation for their complaints and find comfort in "me, too" responses.
They don't break down any more than half the vehicles out there, and less than many.

So, no, they don't.
I've owned Jeeps for years, can't say we've had "break down" problems.
(brake is what stops a car or truck, break is when something is broken or comes apart)
I'm on my second Gladiator - can't say anything has actually "broken" unless it was my doing. Anything that's ever happened to any of our Jeeps was minor and easily taken care of by a dealer.

If internet is where people gather to complain, how come so many of those people are complaining about the same vehicles?

 

[Mr._Bill]

If internet is where people gather to complain, how come so many of those people are complaining about the same vehicles?

That is the nature of most people. If something goes well, they say little about it unless questioned. If something does not go well, they will tell anyone who will listen, and often seek out others to share with.

 

[D10S86]

That is the nature of most people. If something goes well, they say little about it unless questioned. If something does not go well, they will tell anyone who will listen, and often seek out others to share with.

You’re missing my point. I’m trying to say that everyone could complain online and everyone drives different vehicles. Somehow you are mostly hearing from American made vehicle owners, not much from the Honda and Toyota owners.

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