JTR Crawler Build and Daily Driver

[ChrisFixesThis]

So now just waiting one one box from RK. I should be doing the lift and steering this weekend!

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[ChrisFixesThis]

Took two long days but got the full lift and steering installed! The lift went really well just a lot of stuff to do at once and i think i got up and down at least 1000 times lol. it drives super well zero bump steer im going to get a proper alignment tomorrow and post some more photos!

 

[ChrisFixesThis]

silly me forgot to disconnect the sway bar on the first pic. also i have the Adams 1350 installed now and did another forklift test with the swaybar disconnected this time and my font wheel was off the ground like 36in with the rear still planted! the Rock Krawler flex is crazy! I'm going to do more testing soon!

 

[ChrisFixesThis]

Question for you all so on my lift im sitting 26.5in eye to eye on the front shocks at ride height. for the rear 26.250. fully extended the 5100s are 28.75 and 28.5 a 2in longer shock may be more ideal but its not limiting flex really much at all. Just worried about stress from overextending. i was thinking of running jks 2in shock extensions to give me more of a buffer cuz i have plenty of up travel and dont need to worry about bottoming out with a 2in shift this will translate into alot more droop? what do you think?

 

[Stan H]

Question for you all so on my lift im sitting 26.5in eye to eye on the front shocks at ride height. for the rear 26.250. fully extended the 5100s are 28.75 and 28.5 a 2in longer shock may be more ideal but its not limiting flex really much at all. Just worried about stress from overextending. i was thinking of running jks 2in shock extensions to give me more of a buffer cuz i have plenty of up travel and dont need to worry about bottoming out with a 2in shift this will translate into alot more droop? what do you think?

The answer is in the 5100's you bought .
Whatever size lift you have . Look to the max flex of Gladiator stock in your version then add 2 inches.
Or measure stock shocks fully extended and get shocks with 2-3 more inches.

 

[ChrisFixesThis]

The answer is in the 5100's you bought .
Whatever size lift you have . Look to the max flex of Gladiator stock in your version then add 2 inches.
Or measure stock shocks fully extended and get shocks with 2-3 more inches.

the 5100s came with the rock krawler lift. they bundled them with the 4.5in lift but they are kinda short and they dont make longer 5100s than that so i ether need to get longer shocks or change the mounting.

 

[ericw.]

38in 12.50 17 nitto ridge grapples load c

Maybe you don't mind it but I was surprised to learn that it's $500+ more for a set of 38's than it is for a set of 37's.. It's actually cheaper to go 40's than 38's.

 

[Stan H]

Maybe you don't mind it but I was surprised to learn that it's $500+ more for a set of 38's than it is for a set of 37's.. It's actually cheaper to go 40's than 38's.

They are as of yet an odd ball size

 

[ericw.]

They are as of yet an odd ball size

Yeah that's the conclusion I came to as well.

Left me choosing between 37's and 40's, and since I plan to tow and maybe put a Tune M1 camper on top, 40's just seem like a poor choice.

The less mature person deep inside keeps saying "go big or go home", though. lol

 

[ChrisFixesThis]

I really like the 38s they seem like a good fit for the lift and im using all of the fender well when stuffed i may even need to go highline fenders. i plan on going 40s in the future when shes not my daily driver and axles are fully built or i build some dana 60s. 38in Patagonia's are pretty cheap but i went with the nittos for good on road performance and im going to crawl the hell out of this thing 38s with built 44s should be solid

 

[ChrisFixesThis]

whole point of my build is to push as much as possible within my budget to an extreme crawler and maintain good drivability seems on point so far. im thinking a ball joint upgrade will help out some. next plans hopefully sometime in October will be 5.13 gears cromo shafts and ball joints

 

[ChrisFixesThis]

Ok so i had to get rid of the front bumper but my pockets are pretty tight right now from buying synergy knuckles and balljoints so i chopped up the oem plastic one. whatcha think?

 

[Stan H]

Ok so i had to get rid of the front bumper but my pockets are pretty tight right now from buying synergy knuckles and balljoints so i chopped up the oem plastic one. whatcha think?

Aint fancy but functional, and it works

 

[Stan H]

I

Ok so i had to get rid of the front bumper but my pockets are pretty tight right now from buying synergy knuckles and balljoints so i chopped up the oem plastic one. whatcha think?

Dont even know what I did with my original bumper hooks

 

[RodRecket]

A quick and super easy way to gain exhaust clearance. I cut it right at the muffler and welded on a $10 turn down tip from AutoZone. keeping the first resonator its not really loud and is very quiet at cruising speeds. But man you can really hear how hard that v6 is actually working on small hills or getting on it. makes your realize how heavy the JT is when you make it a bit louder.

Since your intending on crawling this thing I'll share my experience with the stock exhaust. That round resonator is the main snag point when traversing over a ledge. I have dragged the frame and then snagged the round bottom edge of the resonator causing exhaust leaks 3 times. Once i seperated the flange at the y pipe and twice it pulled at the manifold hard enough to force me to replace the drivers side manifold gasket. PITA

My solution was welding in the dynamax resonator in place and leaving the stock muffler and then cutting the tiny rear resonator off dumping the exhaust behind the rear axle. Its hardly louder than stock and keeps fumes farther away. Just some advice from someone who's using their jt in similar fashion.

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