KC Halogen lights to JT Aux switches

[STEELCITYDJ87]

Hi - I finally got around to installing my KC Apollo 6 Halogen lights on the Mopar lights brackets on my JTR.

I have the AUX switches from factory and have a couple questions that I could not seem to find an exact answer for.

1. Do I retain the KC relay and connect the wires into the relay? (not plugged in out of box)
2. Which KC harness wire goes to Aux lead (using switch #3) - is it the green one from the relay?
3. Black wire I was planning on grounding to battery terminal - correct?
4. Yellow and white wires are no longer needed - correct? (not going to cut them off just tape them up)

Sponsored

 

[Maungy25]

If you are using the jeep aux you dont need the relay. You just need power and ground. Youtube has some very detailed step by step install videos.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Hi - I finally got around to installing my KC Apollo 6 Halogen lights on the Mopar lights brackets on my JTR.

I have the AUX switches from factory and have a couple questions that I could not seem to find an exact answer for.

1. Do I retain the KC relay and connect the wires into the relay? (not plugged in out of box)
2. Which KC harness wire goes to Aux lead (using switch #3) - is it the green one from the relay?
3. Black wire I was planning on grounding to battery terminal - correct?
4. Yellow and white wires are no longer needed - correct? (not going to cut them off just tape them up)

If the draw of the lights is less than the AUX switch fuse is rated for, then the lights can be connected to the AUX wire and the relay is not necessary. If the relay is used, the Yellow wire is connected to the battery positive, the Black wire to the battery negative or frame, and the Green wire to the AUX switch. The White wire and switch are not needed.

 

[PsyRN]

If the draw of the lights is less than the AUX switch fuse is rated for, then the lights can be connected to the AUX wire and the relay is not necessary. If the relay is used, the Yellow wire is connected to the battery positive, the Black wire to the battery negative or frame, and the Green wire to the AUX switch. The White wire and switch are not needed.

The amp draw is 8.3A per light. So that's a total draw of 16.8. So is the relay needed if you plan to run it to one of the 15A switches, or do I need to use one of the larger switches?

I think I"m getting a set for x-mas from wifey, so this thread interests me.

 

[Mr._Bill]

The amp draw is 8.3A per light. So that's a total draw of 16.8. So is the relay needed if you plan to run it to one of the 15A switches, or do I need to use one of the larger switches?

I think I"m getting a set for x-mas from wifey, so this thread interests me.

If used with one of the 15 amp AUX switches, the relay would be needed. With one of the other two, it would not be necessary. Depending on the harness sent, it may be easier to wire using the relay.

 

[STEELCITYDJ87]

Update: lights are installed!

Yellow wire connected to the battery positive
Black wire to the battery negative
Green wire to AUX switch 3
White wire and switch in the trash

I used the Mopar brackets. you do need to drill the frame holes out and I would. highly recommend using a nutsert tool to do this. I used a stainless spacer to lift the lights off the bracket about 1".

 

[PsyRN]

Update: lights are installed!

Yellow wire connected to the battery positive
Black wire to the battery negative
Green wire to AUX switch 3
White wire and switch in the trash

I used the Mopar brackets. you do need to drill the frame holes out and I would. highly recommend using a nutsert tool to do this. I used a stainless spacer to lift the lights off the bracket about 1".

Looks good. What's this mopar light bracket you're referring to? Also, did you use the relay?

 

[STEELCITYDJ87]

Looks good. What's this mopar light bracket you're referring to? Also, did you use the relay?

yes, I did use the relay.

the bracket is this part

 

[Radio Guy]

In the late 70s and 80s I was into off road lightning and experimented with various ways of powering lights. If you have any voltage drop you will loose lumens so even though the stock 30A JT AUX switches will safely power a pair of lights drawing 8A each, I would want to wire it up and test for voltage drop first.

In my older vehicles I ran 4 or 6GA wire right from the battery to a high current relay then minimum 10ga to the actual lights with the shortest run possible. This provided slightly brighter lighting than other people using long runs of 12 or 14GA wire to switches in the dash then out to the lights. I suspect there will be noticeable voltage drop using just the JT AUX switches with internal wiring harness.

BTW, I got this spiffy breakout barrier strip for the AUX wiring in the engine compartment, makes for easy connections and testing. https://badgeglow.com/product-category/simple-aux-for-jeep-jl-jt/

 

[IamPro2A]

In the late 70s and 80s I was into off road lightning and experimented with various ways of powering lights. If you have any voltage drop you will loose lumens so even though the stock 30A JT AUX switches will safely power a pair of lights drawing 8A each, I would want to wire it up and test for voltage drop first.

In my older vehicles I ran 4 or 6GA wire right from the battery to a high current relay then minimum 10ga to the actual lights with the shortest run possible. This provided slightly brighter lighting than other people using long runs of 12 or 14GA wire to switches in the dash then out to the lights. I suspect there will be noticeable voltage drop using just the JT AUX switches with internal wiring harness.

The stock JT setup is already using relays. Those dash switches don't handle any real power, just a signal to the computer that you pushed it.

 

[Radio Guy]

The stock JT setup is already using relays. Those dash switches don't handle any real power, just a signal to the computer that you pushed it.

Yes, but where are the relays, how large is the wire and how long is it?

 

[IamPro2A]

Yes, but where are the relays, how large is the wire and how long is it?

Relays are in the PDC, right next to the battery. So short runs to and from the relays. If memory serves me right, the 40A circuits are 12awg and the 15A ones are 16awg of the factory installed switches.

For what it's worth, I totally get what you are saying. Back then I was crazy with lights too.
This was my '78 Ramcharger. Hard to make out, but there are four 130w halogens on the roof bar facing front. An aimable 55w spot in the center of the roof. Four more 100w lights on the front bumper. Not pictured but later added were two 100w lights on the ends of the roof bar aimed to the sides, and two more rear facing lights on the back. All powered from a separate and isolated group 27 deep cycle marine battery. For those keeping track at home, that's almost 120 amps if all the lights were on. A massive mess of relays and stupid large copper wire.

But that was then, and this now. With modern lighting, I can get more light output than that and wire it all to one factory Gladiator aux switch if I wanted without a problem.

 

[PsyRN]

So I installed my lights today. Essentially this is what I did.

Took the red and black lines from the lights. I combined the red wires and connected them to the #2 Aux switch since it’s 30A and the combined draw for these halogens is 16.6A. Though I read the aux switches have a relay, I didn’t want to test putting them on the 15A switches.

Then I combined the black wires to a single ground and attached to the negative battery terminal. I shrink wrapped after the photo but wanted to show what did.

Then I didn’t need the rest of this. The green, yellow, white and black wires that would’ve powered the switch, which I didn’t use. Seems to work fine.

Sponsored