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Kinetic Ropes vs Recovery Straps

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ShadowsPapa

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It depends on what you are doing. With a winch, the very last thing you want is a connection that stretches. Go watch a professional doing recovery, like Ron Pratt on YouTube. Yanking people out with another vehicle will always be a last resort for me.
We pulled hundreds of vehicles out of fields and ditches and ravines with the winches on the boss's wreckers......... no stretch, you didn't want it with that big winch.

I am curious, why would a vehicle pulling another out need to "gain traction". You should have traction just sitting there, from the get go. Does it mean you have to hit dry pavement first?
 

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It depends on what you are doing. With a winch, the very last thing you want is a connection that stretches. Go watch a professional doing recovery, like Ron Pratt on YouTube. Yanking people out with another vehicle will always be a last resort for me.
No question, non stretching elements have their place, especially when winching. To each their own as to the order of their preferred recovery methods.
 

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I am curious, why would a vehicle pulling another out need to "gain traction". You should have traction just sitting there, from the get go. Does it mean you have to hit dry pavement first?
Kinetic recovery is all about the energy from the pulling vehicle turned into a momentary force far greater than available tractive forces.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Kinetic recovery is all about the energy from the pulling vehicle turned into a momentary force far greater than available tractive forces.
So sort of like pulling on a spring, eventually the energy stored is released and combined with that of the pulling vehicle, giving a momentary pull greater than with a plain strap.
Gotcha, hadn't thought it through.
 

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I believe there are several incorrect statements above (terminology and understanding what it means is a problem here). This is simple physics. We are dealing with force applied over a period of time (impulse). The key with all of this is to limit or reduce the peak forces that any component in the system "feels" regardless of the type of situation you are under. Peak forces can be reduced in several ways. First is with a slow-steady speed pull (static loading). Second is to use energy absorbing components whenever there is a shock load applied to the system (dynamic loading-or kinetic).

Peak forces are what break straps, connectors, and vehicles (and subsequently kills people). Use of static (no-stretch, high-rating) components should be used when there is a slow application of force (i.e. winching, or pulling with another vehicle without shock loading). Use of stretchy or energy absorbing components should be used whenever the system is slack and is suddenly loaded (i.e. with lots of slack that the tow vehicle uses to gain momentum before loading the system and bump the other vehicle out-avoid these dynamic components in winching setups unless there is no other choice).

I usually carry both types of components in my vehicle as there is no one system that works in all situations, in my opinion. There are certainly times when winching does not work (i.e. no anchor and when the stuck vehicle just winches the tow vehicle back into the muck). In these situations it may be better to use dynamic components and allow the tow vehicle to gain momentum before force is applied to bump the stuck vehicle out of its bog. In this type of bumping scenario you are likely applying a much higher load because it is applied over a much shorter period of time. The components then stretch to absorb energy which is subsequently delivered back to the vehicles (slingshot effect).

When feasible, it is my opinion that winching is preferred as the bumping method can generate higher peak forces. But really this discussion of which method is best is somewhat irrelevant. Both methods have their place AND components break in all of these scenarios. It is imperative that a careful assessment of where all this junk will fly and wreck havoc must always be considered, no matter what. Setup your recovery. Assume the worse case. Mitigate accordingly. Remember, that even in winching situations shock loads can still occur when things slip and grab.

Pay attention to the load ratings of all your components. Remember that pulling a vehicle out of a bog can generate far higher loads than the tow capacity of our vehicles. A 7000 lb rated strap is asking for failure and potential for death in my opinion (when used without understanding it). As others stated above, seek out components with 20,000+ lb ratings. Inspect your gear. Retire it when there is damage. Metal components can generally take quite a bit of abuse. Textiles, not so much. My general rule is that any textile product with any kind of nick on the edge must be retired (these act as significant stress concentrators). Dirt wears them out (but is hard to assess).

I recommend checking out Ronny Dahl's You Tube channel. He has some great discussions on this topic and gear as well as some impressive failure setups that are worth viewing.
 

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Well you reminded me that it's likely time to retire my car tie-down straps as I've used them for several years, they started yellow and are now yellow to ivory in color, dirty and some nicks.
I pulled into an event a couple of years back only to see guys frantically trying to get a race car off the tailgate of the tow vehicle - straps let loose when he stopped and the car went forward over the front of the trailer into his tailgate. Those straps normally handle thousands of pounds - either he did something wrong, like not enough straps, not tight enough, or they were worn, etc.
Thanks for the reminder....... new straps are cheap, trucks and people, not so much.
 

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I had always used a tow strap in the past with my F-350 which has plenty of torque....Then i started watching this guy on YouTube and was hooked (so to speak) on the snatch strap.
Check out Matt's Offroad Towing and Recovery...warning it is addicting and amazing what he does with his Cherokee..
I now carry one in my Gladiator.

Yeah... I'm addicted to Matt's as well. Need to make a trip to Utah someday :)
 

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First recovery option considered should be a tug by a buddy. It's usually simple to set up, quick to execute, and there's little that can go wrong as long as folks simply make a gentle pull. Use a proper recovery strap (which has a small amount of stretch to allow forces to ramp up gently), not a tow strap (which has no stretch). If the problem is fear that the recovering vehicle will also become mired down, consider if you can use two recovery straps together. Do so with a magazine within the overlapped loops . That will keep the knot from becoming too tight to easily undue. Do not use a shackle in the middle of the ropes lest it become a projectile with someone's name on it should something break. It should go without saying that you NEVER use a tow strap with metal hooks. Cloth loops only, and proper recovery strap, not tow.

Sometimes gentle pulls don't work out, or you can't maneuver a vehicle to the proper place. That's where a winch can come in handy--sometimes with a snatch block to optimize the pull angle. I've seen chains included with winch recovery kits. The purpose of the chain is NEVER to serve as a recovery strap itself, or as an extension to the winchline. It is in there in case the vehicle doesn't have good recovery points and you need to rig up something around the axle/frame. You could use a strap, but risk cutting it, so you use a chain. It should be entangled enough in whatever it's wrapped around that it will not become a projectile should things go awry.

As for kinetic ropes, they look really cool when successful. If your goal is to look cool for bystanders and the 'gram, well have fun. However, I agree with Tom Sheppard, as he wrote in Vehicle-Dependent Expedition Guide, the Bible of overlanding:

"The military use snatch towing to extract tanks and very large vehicles. Being the military they approach the problem with precision, thorough training and practise. The only appropriate recommendation for the rest of us is that snatch towing should not be carried out at all."

Why? Because once things are started, there's no stopping them. A spotter may see that the vehicle is going to roll over because of an unexpected soft spot. He may see that the shackle is coming off the hook, but there's little he can do to stop the forces that have been built up. He can yell out, "Duck!", and that's about it.

And, because videos can be more fun than reading my harangue (sorry if it reads like that, but this is important stuff), here's a video with a couple recoveries produced in a fun fashion (as your off-road adventures should always be, though with serious concern for safety, of course). Skip to 9:50 and watch for a couple minutes.



BTW, I would later discover that the wiring to my rear locker was broken, so it never engaged. Not sure why the front locker wasn't sufficient to pull me out. It really wasn't' that bad a hole. LOL.
 

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Can you use recovery straps (not necessarily snatch straps, but things sold as "recovery straps" like I had linked) for a slow and steady recovery?
 

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I find it interesting that all of the talk about winches, doing this, that or the other thing with them, using them to pull someone out and so on anywhere on this forum, not a single mention of chock blocks. We always always had a set in our trucks when we went out to rescue someone.
Otherwise that winch can simply drag the recovery vehicle into the same predicament as the stuck vehicle. We've had trucks pulled along on pavement by the power of the winch - chock blocks stop that.

But otherwise interesting topic of the various straps. Anyone who has seen cables or straps snap knows to never stand in line with that stuff and stay well off to the side, too, as stuff can snap and swing out to the side a ways. I've seen back windows taken out.
 

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I've found straps to be a wear item- eventually they get frayed, scuffed, partially cut, run over, etc. I usually just down-grade them to yard duty at that point. This way, new straps always make a great gift.
Same mentality. If used for something small, i'll reuse. if used for a big job, downgrade and buy new. they are not that expensive and piece of mind is better then shit breaking
 
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I find it interesting that all of the talk about winches, doing this, that or the other thing with them, using them to pull someone out and so on anywhere on this forum, not a single mention of chock blocks. We always always had a set in our trucks when we went out to rescue someone.
Otherwise that winch can simply drag the recovery vehicle into the same predicament as the stuck vehicle. We've had trucks pulled along on pavement by the power of the winch - chock blocks stop that.

But otherwise interesting topic of the various straps. Anyone who has seen cables or straps snap knows to never stand in line with that stuff and stay well off to the side, too, as stuff can snap and swing out to the side a ways. I've seen back windows taken out.
I have a set of big rubber ones in my JT. Useful for a bunch of stuff. changing tires, oil, or anytime you go under your vehicle. When I eventually get a winch they will be usefull for pulling others out
 

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I have a set of big rubber ones in my JT. Useful for a bunch of stuff. changing tires, oil, or anytime you go under your vehicle. When I eventually get a winch they will be usefull for pulling others out
There ya go - SMART.
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