Lift for Max Tow - keep rear springs?

[tommyp]

That’s the same boat I’m in. I like the quality of the lift but it’s pretty tall unladen. I had priced out synergy coils plus shocks that are roughly 2” front and 1” rear and with new shocks it was 1100~ish. At that point the aev or mopar would be a better option.

so many choices, it can be a bit daunting. Which is why I’m probably still running just spacers.

It also doesn't look like it gets rid of the rake ether. looking at joyrides pictures the rear is way up in the air.

Sponsored

 

[bastage]

Yeah the clayton looks good but adding shocks puts it up to close to 2k which isn't terrible but it is also pretty tall maybe higher than I would want.

For 35's on a Max Tow you don't have to do much. I ran them with Rubicon take off front springs, the Rubicon shocks all around & a Daystar 3/4" front spacer (40 bucks on amazon). Had a nice leveled appearance. Nothing else needs to be swapped out so in the driveway you can do it all in about an hour & a total out of pocket cost of less then 200 if you find the Rubicon take off's at a good cost (paid 135 for mine & then sold them for the same 135 when I went to the clayton lift). At FULL flex I got some very minor rubbing on the front fenders. Go to aftermarket fenders & you could easily do 37's & disconnect the front sway bar for even more flex.

And there is still some rake with the Clayton 2.5, but its not a ton.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Looks awesome. I wonder how much (if any) benefit in ride and flex the longer springs would be over the spacers.

I can tell you mine rides almost as good as stock. I added drop down correction brackets for the control arms and I have the Rubicon Fox shocks on mine. Kept the max Tow rear springs and mine has about a 1/4" of take which I wanted to keep for towing purposes. I'm happy with the how it turned out. I'll be adding a front adjustable track bar soon. Done everything for under a $1000.

As far as 35's I ran them with no lift and it sitting stock

 

[tommyp]

For 35's on a Max Tow you don't have to do much. I ran them with Rubicon take off front springs, the Rubicon shocks all around & a Daystar 3/4" front spacer (40 bucks on amazon). Had a nice leveled appearance. Nothing else needs to be swapped out so in the driveway you can do it all in about an hour & a total out of pocket cost of less then 200 if you find the Rubicon take off's at a good cost (paid 135 for mine & then sold them for the same 135 when I went to the clayton lift). At FULL flex I got some very minor rubbing on the front fenders. Go to aftermarket fenders & you could easily do 37's & disconnect the front sway bar for even more flex.

And there is still some rake with the Clayton 2.5, but its not a ton.

Yeah that's where I am at trying to find the best path. With just 35's its no big deal but going to something like a clayton may look weird without 37's There are a lot of options as stated so its hard to know what would be the best/most economical way to move forward. Shocks are probably going to be a must do the rest I dunno.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Yeah that's where I am at trying to find the best path. With just 35's its no big deal but going to something like a clayton may look weird without 37's There are a lot of options as stated so its hard to know what would be the best/most economical way to move forward. Shocks are probably going to be a must do the rest I dunno.

35's no lift on mine

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For 35's on a Max Tow you don't have to do much. I ran them with Rubicon take off front springs, the Rubicon shocks all around & a Daystar 3/4" front spacer (40 bucks on amazon). Had a nice leveled appearance. Nothing else needs to be swapped out so in the driveway you can do it all in about an hour & a total out of pocket cost of less then 200 if you find the Rubicon take off's at a good cost (paid 135 for mine & then sold them for the same 135 when I went to the clayton lift). At FULL flex I got some very minor rubbing on the front fenders. Go to aftermarket fenders & you could easily do 37's & disconnect the front sway bar for even more flex.

And there is still some rake with the Clayton 2.5, but its not a ton.

If a person is concerned about payload and towing, then they want to keep some rake (or be hunting coons in the trees with a load) and don't want to lift too high as that reduces towing ability. Several 4x4 truck sites mention and explain this so I won't go through what can easily be found on truck sites about towing with a lift.

 

[bastage]

Yeah that's where I am at trying to find the best path. With just 35's its no big deal but going to something like a clayton may look weird without 37's There are a lot of options as stated so its hard to know what would be the best/most economical way to move forward. Shocks are probably going to be a must do the rest I dunno.

Gotta take into account my bushwacker fenders... But 35's with the Clayton 2.5" lift

 

[tommyp]

35's no lift on mine

Yea I get that they would fit stock or without much. I just want to eventually move to 37's and would like a bit of a lift before having to do gears. Payload probably is a concern but towing is not really an issue. I was thinking I could get away with a mopar lift maybe with a small spacer and be good. The adjustable track bars would have to be added. The mopar does the lower arms but the clayton does the top. Not sure why you would think the lowers would have to change a bit if you are dropping to keep the axle forward.

 

[kevman65]

To the OP, if you're going to do a true lift, with springs, then no you don't keep your rear springs and add spacers.
New springs are probably stiffer than factory and depending on which lift you get, may be a triple zone spring.

All other factors you have to decide if you want. Yes initial lift may gain more than you want, but after everything settles you'll probably be in the range you're looking for.

 

[tommyp]

To the OP, if you're going to do a true lift, with springs, then no you don't keep your rear springs and add spacers.
New springs are probably stiffer than factory and depending on which lift you get, may be a triple zone spring.

All other factors you have to decide if you want. Yes initial lift may gain more than you want, but after everything settles you'll probably be in the range you're looking for.

Gotcha would be interesting to know how the mopar lift compares to the max tow in spring rates. That was kinda what I was wondering if the mopar lift springs were rated more for a sport/rubicon rather than a max tow so using a spacer and stock springs instead of the mopar rears would make sense.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Yea I get that they would fit stock or without much. I just want to eventually move to 37's and would like a bit of a lift before having to do gears. Payload probably is a concern but towing is not really an issue. I was thinking I could get away with a mopar lift maybe with a small spacer and be good. The adjustable track bars would have to be added. The mopar does the lower arms but the clayton does the top. Not sure why you would think the lowers would have to change a bit if you are dropping to keep the axle forward.

Gotcha, I was showing that you shouldn't need much to clear 37's. I don't see why the Mopar lift and a 3/4 or 1 inch spacer wouldn't do the trick or even just the Mopar lift itself. People have said that you get around 2.5 with the Mopar lift, I'd think that you could clear 37's with that.

 

[tommyp]

Gotcha, I was showing that you shouldn't need much to clear 37's. I don't see why the Mopar lift and a 3/4 or 1 inch spacer wouldn't do the trick or even just the Mopar lift itself. People have said that you get around 2.5 with the Mopar lift, I'd think that you could clear 37's with that.

Right what I was seeing was that the rubicons were fine with the mopar and 37's but the sports would need more without fender mods. May be worth going to the clayton with the 3.5" actual lift on the sport and just leave the fenders.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Right what I was seeing was that the rubicons were fine with the mopar and 37's but the sports would need more without fender mods. May be worth going to the clayton with the 3.5" actual lift on the sport and just leave the fenders.

Yeah that sounds about right. I have been thinking about swapping mine for the rough country 3.5" lift kit. Not sure how much more lift I would get but as long as I could still tow 5000lbs I'd be happy. I've road In a wrangler with a 6" rough country lift and the springs rode great. I would not recommend their shocks. I'd probably pair the lift kit with some Fox shocks or do shocks extensions on the Rubicon Fox shocks.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Gotcha, I was showing that you shouldn't need much to clear 37's. I don't see why the Mopar lift and a 3/4 or 1 inch spacer wouldn't do the trick or even just the Mopar lift itself. People have said that you get around 2.5 with the Mopar lift, I'd think that you could clear 37's with that.

How much you get will depend a bit on the weight of the truck. Lighter truck like a sport- more lift, heavier truck like a loaded Rubicon, not as much as the sport might see. YMMV or is it YLMV?
If every truck was the same, and springs of a given type/build would always give you a specific "lift" then Jeep would have one part number for front left, one for front right, etc. - correct? ;-)

 

[MCATDT]

I have a max tow and went with the AEV. It maintains the factory rake and the towing capability. Drives so much better than stock and is more than capable off road.

Sponsored