Lift not level?

[WILDHOBO]

Okay, thanks! I’m pretty observant but I felt like it drove that way too. Than I thought I was crazy until the photo.

You’re not crazy. I can see it easily in the picture. There will be a solution. I’d guess AEV can shed some light on this.

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[Challenger85]

You’re not crazy. I can see it easily in the picture. There will be a solution. I’d guess AEV can shed some light on this.

Lol that’s good to know. I measured the rock rails and they’re 20 1/2 on driver and 20 1/4 on passenger. So it’s 1/4” but trying to wrap my head around if those would change with the lift being a spacer. I guess it lifts the entire body including the frame?

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I got the Readylift SST 2.5 spacer lift on mine and it's does not sit like that even with a full tank. I also swapped my front springs for Rubicon take off springs. Your jeep should not sit like that after any lift if it's done right.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Lol that’s good to know. I measured the rock rails and they’re 20 1/2 on driver and 20 1/4 on passenger. So it’s 1/4” but trying to wrap my head around if those would change with the lift being a spacer. I guess it lifts the entire body including the frame?

I haven’t measured mine since lifting. Now I’m scared to.

 

[Ar4130]

Lol that’s good to know. I measured the rock rails and they’re 20 1/2 on driver and 20 1/4 on passenger. So it’s 1/4” but trying to wrap my head around if those would change with the lift being a spacer. I guess it lifts the entire body including the frame?

I have the same lift. If properly installed, there is nothing in a spacer lift to cause any variances. 2” is 2”. Are you sure your coils are clocked right and that the alignment pins on the spacers are correctly inserted into the coil buckets? Did you loosen the control arms prior to install and re-torque them to spec after...with the Jeep on the ground and under load?

 

[Challenger85]

I have the same lift. If properly installed, there is nothing in a spacer lift to cause any variances. 2” is 2”. Are you sure your coils are clocked right and that the alignment pins on the spacers are correctly inserted into the coil buckets? Did you loosen the control arms prior to install and re-torque them to spec after...with the Jeep on the ground and under load?

You’re probably right, I loosened all the control arms in the back. In the front I loosened the passenger side before someone told me the control arms weren’t a big deal, just loosen the track bar bolts and lower the axle one side at a time to install the springs instead of the entire axle at once. I totally forgot until you said that. I guess I thought they were right and the control arms move. So loosening drivers side and dropping it back down and re-torque should set it straight you think?

 

[Jeeperjamie]

You’re probably right, I loosened all the control arms in the back. In the front I loosened the passenger side before someone told me the control arms weren’t a big deal, just loosen the track bar bolts and lower the axle one side at a time to install the springs instead of the entire axle at once. I totally forgot until you said that. I guess I thought they were right and the control arms move. So loosening drivers side and dropping it back down and re-torque should set it straight you think?

Give it a shot.

 

[Ar4130]

You’re probably right, I loosened all the control arms in the back. In the front I loosened the passenger side before someone told me the control arms weren’t a big deal, just loosen the track bar bolts and lower the axle one side at a time to install the springs instead of the entire axle at once. I totally forgot until you said that. I guess I thought they were right and the control arms move. So loosening drivers side and dropping it back down and re-torque should set it straight you think?

Worth a shot. Especially since you loosened up on side and not the other. The rubber bushings don’t move freely like some aftermarket arms and can bind up, cashing problems and premature wear. One of the reasons you wait to retorque them until it’s back on the ground at right height/ under load. Upper arms are not that bad to deal with. They have a heat shield you need to get out of the way but simple and they only need to be torqued down to 80 ft lbs. The lower arms can be difficult to re-torque, as they need to go back to 190 ft lbs, while you are laying underneath. Make sure your torque wrench can go that high prior to getting started.

 

[Challenger85]

Worth a shot. Especially since you loosened up on side and not the other. The rubber bushings don’t move freely like some aftermarket arms and can bind up, cashing problems and premature wear. One of the reasons you wait to retorque them until it’s back on the ground at right height/ under load. Upper arms are not that bad to deal with. They have a heat shield you need to get out of the way but simple and they only need to be torqued down to 80 ft lbs. The lower arms can be difficult to re-torque, as they need to go back to 190 ft lbs, while you are laying underneath. Make sure your torque wrench can go that high prior to getting started.

I shouldn’t have taken advice haha. Okay, I’ll try that out. My wrench goes to 250, I got it specifically to get this installed. Sucks I just put the new rims and tires on today. Maybe I can do this without removing the tires lol.

 

[Ar4130]

I shouldn’t have taken advice haha. Okay, I’ll try that out. My wrench goes to 250, I got it specifically to get this installed. Sucks I just put the new rims and tires on today. Maybe I can do this without removing the tires lol.

You should actually do it with wheels on the ground, under load at ride height.

If it makes it easier for you, you can take the wheels off to access and loosen up the control arms, but make sure you either get the wheels back on and on the ground or lower the axle down onto jack stands (under the axle -not the frame) to simulate the suspension being under load, before you retorque things back up.

 

[glassjawkid32]

Lol that’s good to know. I measured the rock rails and they’re 20 1/2 on driver and 20 1/4 on passenger. So it’s 1/4” but trying to wrap my head around if those would change with the lift being a spacer. I guess it lifts the entire body including the frame?

Have a Franken spacer lift on mine and it sits flat.

 

[Challenger85]

You should actually do it with wheels on the ground, under load at ride height.

If it makes it easier for you, you can take the wheels off to access and loosen up the control arms, but make sure you either get the wheels back on and on the ground or lower the axle down onto jack stands (under the axle -not the frame) to simulate the suspension being under load, before you retorque things back up.

Okay, will do. I’ll crawl underneath it here maybe today or tomorrow and see if I can check that out.

 

[Jakeyou]

Fuel tank full? It’s on the passenger side.

The gas tank is on driver side same as gas door.

 

[NachoRuby]

The gas tank is on driver side same as gas door.

The gas tank is on the passenger's side. Look underneath. The JT is weird. The tank isn't on the same side as the filler.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The gas tank is on the passenger's side. Look underneath. The JT is weird. The tank isn't on the same side as the filler.

This is why the internet shouldn’t be trusted. Too common for statements to be made, as if they are fact, even with supporting arguments. And yet, they’d not looked underneath.

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