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Lift on a Sport S w/ MaxTow

imail369

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Hello.

I read as many threads as I could find on lifting with the max tow package. I think I've settled on the ReadyLift 2.5 SST kit. I realize I will lose some % of towing capability.

I have a 2023 Sport S w/Max Tow and a Leer topper on back (~200lbs). I'm at ~16,000 miles.

2 Questions:
1) I see several folks putting rubicon springs up front. Is there any value in doing that with the ReadyLift? Or, adding the rubicon shocks, too? Seems like I can get take offs pretty cheap, so I don't mind the expense if there is some real benefit.

2) I haven't decided on 35s or 37s for tires. Does the ready lift allow me to do either one?

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I went with narrow 35's, and built a front suspension to level the truck on a '23 JTR. Buy your wheels and tires, mount them, then lift the front of the truck with a floor jack and decide what height looks best to you. If it's a low lift, order the plus length springs and shocks you need, along with bump stops and extended lower FCA's, mount that shit up and level the rear (if needed) based on front installed height. If you're jacking the hell out of it, you can order F+R plus springs and shocks all at once, then fine tune with spacers. 35's and a level or a very low lift is plenty for 99% of the shit you'll do with that truck, unless you're planning on dumping another 50K into it, then beating the piss out of your 100K truck on the rocks. At that point, just build a buggy. My opinion is worth what you paid for it.
 

ShadowsPapa

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1) I see several folks putting rubicon springs up front. Is there any value in doing that with the ReadyLift? Or, adding the rubicon shocks, too? Seems like I can get take offs pretty cheap, so I don't mind the expense if there is some real benefit.
Skip the Rubicon take-off shocks if they are fox. Not worth it other than looks. Too soft, bouncy.

Rubicon springs come in multiple rates - so what you end up with depends on the exact front springs from a Rubicon that you get.

I'd be tempted to skip the Rubicon springs, although they MAY give you anywhere from an additional 3/4" to 1" "lift" up front on a SPORT.
They gained me about 7/8" on my Overland.

This time I went with Synergy springs and stowed the Rubicon springs and shocks in boxes in my garage's loft.

If you like your ride, skip spring swaps - you'll likely change the ride with different springs.
 

PuddleJumper

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you can fit 35s with no lift on the right offset. I also recommend skinny 35s. I would only lift if its needed to fit your wheel/tire combo. If you tow at all, going higher will make it a lot less comfortable. You have widetrack axles so i recommend +18 to +30 offset, You can achieve a +19~+21 offset with a 1in spacer on your OE wheels. I recommend the MT Baja Boss AT in 35x10.50r17 as well.
 

Josh00333

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I went with a spacer at first as well on my Max Tow.

I would strongly recommend you save up and just get a true full kit with the right springs.

I went AEV for a number of reasons including load capacity that ties in with the max tow package.
 

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Gladiatorx2

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I really like the ride one Max Tow Sport. So much so that I am only looking to take about an inch of take. I already have Rubicon take off springs from a loaded Rubicon with hard top and steal bumpers. I just not sure which way to go. On one hand I like the idea of keeping the Max Tow springs as I truly like the ride and handling. I believe their engineers got it right. Since I already have the Rubicon springs ( free) I am worried about combatability/handling. Any ideas. Also I ran 37's on the Rubicon and aev 2" and it worked great!
 

Josh00333

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Were you able to find springs that provided the same capacity as the max tow springs? That seems to be the issue most people are concerned with when it comes to keeping as much towing capacity as you can. I realize there is going to be some capacity loss in any case, though.
AEV, there standard kit is built around a Rubi with +500 or so pounds of payload (sounds like a max tow!) the overland springs even more so.

Clayton also offered higher capacity springs.
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