YEP, that 150 is based upon anti-seize compound being used. If you don't use that stuff somewhere down the road at tire changing time you can snap those lug nuts off or spin them in the hub. They actually make a lug nut splitter that you put on the lug nut and tighten down a bolt to split it...The Wrangler JL specs 150 I'm pretty sure. Wouldn't think the JT would be different.
Having said that, if you torque to 130 or beyond, good luck changing a flat tire on the side of the road. Breaking that loose with a lug wrench will suck unless you're a pretty big guy.
True, but I do not buy into that line of thought.Unless specifically indicated otherwise wheel nut torque specifications for passenger and light truck vehicles are always "dry" meaning no lubrication of any kind.
Yep yep, I get it, but if you torque a fastener that is spec'd dry and you lube it, what you get isn't what you want.True, but I do not buy into that line of thought.
Here is the issue(s): Salt on roads in the winter, rain all the time. I try to always use anti-seize on those threads, if not then a bit of THIN oil and then wipe the threads clean. Thin-oil (3 in 1, WD 40 or any very light oil will work, apply wipe and it will leave enough in the pores and threads to keep it from rusting. Don't use grease or other heavy high viscosity oils.
Rust and corrosion are your enemies. Too many times I have snapped lug bolts, had them spin in the press-fit socket or had to crack the nut and then hammer out the lug bolt.
Generally, this came on older low mileage cars that came into the shop. Folks buy a car, maybe drive a few miles to work and after 6, 7 years and longer they come in to replace those dry rot tires.
Rust & Salt corrosion will literally weld 2 pieces of metal together.
This is an age-old discussion with its 2 schools of thought.Yep yep, I get it, but if you torque a fastener that is spec'd dry and you lube it, what you get isn't what you want.
Yep, you can throw away those torque specs and make them tight and lubricated.This is an age-old discussion with its 2 schools of thought.
From the view of the mfg: They are correct and properly speaking yes you torque dry. BUT that is based upon new sanitary installs with new compoents. However, out in the field, the rain, muds, salt corrosion and rust take their toll. Rust and corrosion are far more damaging and can lead to failure.
I try to have a small stainless steel or brass brush in my car so when I have a need to swap tires due to a flat I can clean the threads, apply anti-seize if I have it, if not I apply oil and wipe clean. As few of us carry a calibrated torque wrench, and I have never seen a wrecker driver show up with one so the torque is something other than 130 lbs.
Most wrecker calls that need a flat changed or either a woman or the man was unable to break the lug nuts loose.
I have been very fortunate in my career. In my early days I worked in extreme clean rooms and when I torqued something down which was frequent I had to get an inspector to clear it for his inspector to certify it...yes 2 people had to inspect and certify the bolting down of every specific torque requirement. I lived in a world of extreme accuracy exacting specifications. Some of the things I worked on had altimeters, accurate enough to be able to measure how tall you were to the nearest inch. Now that is sensitivity.
Later I got to work in R&D on both the development side and the testing side. The testing side is where the rubber meets the road, we tested as used in the dirt, mud, rain, cold. hot, etc. That is reality and reality generally calls for a different set of specs and approaches.
Like I said, I have had to cut lug bolts or nuts off due to salt-rust in order to save the hub. Apply to much torque to remove and you can spin the bolt and if that occurs you generally replace the hub.
Take Away: You can live by the "chart" or you chose to live in a state of reality.
Tell us, we are ready to read...Yep, you can throw away those torque specs and make them tight and lubricated.
Or you can use engineering specs and deal with corrosion.
Pick one, you don't get both..
Tell you what?Tell us, we are ready to read...
Replace with SS bolts and nuts?
FACTS JACK: There are 268 MILLION vehicles registered in the US.Tell you what?
That torque yield dry and torque yield lubricated produce entirely different clamping force at the same measured point? Surely you already knew that.
So either use the specs or don't.
If you are going to lubricate the fasteners, don't waste your time with the torque specs.
Don't believe me? Look up there about three posts up and read the last line,