Measurement point for rake?

[Escape.idiocracy]

What is everyone using as the measurement point for rake?
Rubicons have 2” taller fenders- so, measuring ground to fender line? And subtract 2” for rubicon/mojave front fenders?

or are folks measuring ground to frame rail?

This topic came up over the weekend and my JTRD measured exactly the same front and rear fender wise- which is why I was told I should add 2” to the front to “level”.

Is this correct and the feder to tire gap is supposed the be different front to rear on rubicons/mojaves?

Ground to fender- currently at 38.5” ??‍

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[Camaroboi13]

I’m in a non rubicon and my fender to tire clearance is 8.5” front and back, and the truck sits dead level. In a rubicon I would imagine you are correct in your understanding.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I’m in a non rubicon and my fender to tire clearance is 8.5” front and back, and the truck sits dead level. In a rubicon I would imagine you are correct in your understanding.

Thanks- I suppose for the last couple years it looks level basing it off fenders….. this means I have been nose heavy for a couple years! - I’m delusional…

Thanks!

 

[Camaroboi13]

Thanks- I suppose for the last couple years it looks level basing it off fenders….. this means I have been nose heavy for a couple years! - I’m delusional…

Thanks!

Side note, are you sure rubicons are 2” higher? I thought they were only 1” higher and roughly 1” higher springs. I could be wrong though. Nevertheless, my rear ground to fender is just shy of 44” and my front is just shy of 43” but I am parked on a hill in my driveway right now ?‍

 

[MPMB]

It's mostly a visual appearance thing. Many measure the center of the fender (center of the hub and go up) to the ground.

"proper" measurement would be frame to ground, but that wouldn't give you the number most talk about (1" or 2" rake) because it's closer together.

I took measurements before and after my lift, using the same 40" mark on all fenders. From center of wheel, measured from ground to 40" on fender, then drew a straight line. Based off the fender lines, the front fenders were lower than the rear fenders, about 1/2" rake with all my equipment. After the lift, my nose is 1/2" higher than the rear, but from a distance, it looks level (it might have settled a bit).

I'm going to remeasure the heights later this week. I also need to double check the L-R lean, as I think I'll need to get some trackbars.

 

[Rusty PW]

I measure off of the body pinch weld to check for being level.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Side note, are you sure rubicons are 2” higher? I thought they were only 1” higher and roughly 1” higher springs. I could be wrong though. Nevertheless, my rear ground to fender is just shy of 44” and my front is just shy of 43” but I am parked on a hill in my driveway right now ?‍

Not sure at all.

 

[Capngeo]

I just had my JT lifted... I told the shop that under no circumstances did I want the nose higher than the rear when it was done. Well guess what I got? The front end is so much higher than the rear, people are constantly flashing their hi beams at me, thinking I have mine on.

The tech says "the kit does that"... well I call bullshit on that! The kit does what he ordered. The shop is now saying that I have to PAY to get the factory rake restored by putting in "puck spacers". Do I want "puck spacers" or do I want him to order the right rear springs?

 

[jav_eee]

Use a phone app or regular contruction level on the bed on a known level parking surface.

AEV uses spring perch to frame for measuring lift height to ensure their geo correction bracket will work. Using their mthod, with my 2" of teraflex spacers installed, my rubicon measures 5"

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I just had my JT lifted... I told the shop that under no circumstances did I want the nose higher than the rear when it was done. Well guess what I got? The front end is so much higher than the rear, people are constantly flashing their hi beams at me, thinking I have mine on.

The tech says "the kit does that"... well I call bullshit on that! The kit does what he ordered. The shop is now saying that I have to PAY to get the factory rake restored by putting in "puck spacers". Do I want "puck spacers" or do I want him to order the right rear springs?

Also- no offese but there are SO many variables lift to lift, and vehicle weight to vehicle weight….. not sure how or why you wouldn’t do your own due diligence prior to purchasing a lift…. Any reputable Jeep 4x4 shop is going to tell you they can get close, but nothing dimensionally is going to be perfect….. if your looking for that amount of perfection, you need to look into custom springs (rates, lengths etc….). And likely are going to have to figure most of it out on your own…..

Assuming you drive a Gas JT- keep that as a positive note as there are a LOT more spring options for gas than diesel


So, what do you drive? I was more surprised by the fender differences. Ground to lower pinch seam on the body front and rear is what I went with after the above advise.

1.5” springs on the rubicon brought the front 1/4” Lower than the rear…. Which is good enough for me….
However- ground to fender the front is 1.25~” higher in the front.

Headlights are easy to adjust.
Pull as close to a wall as you can on level ground, mark the top of the light cut off with 2” painters tape(top edge of tape), back up 25’ adjust until the top of the cut off line is at the bottom of the painters tape.

 

[Capngeo]

Also- no offese but there are SO many variables lift to lift, and vehicle weight to vehicle weight….. not sure how or why you wouldn’t do your own due diligence prior to purchasing a lift…. Any reputable Jeep 4x4 shop is going to tell you they can get close, but nothing dimensionally is going to be perfect….. if your looking for that amount of perfection, you need to look into custom springs (rates, lengths etc….). And likely are going to have to figure most of it out on your own…..

Assuming you drive a Gas JT- keep that as a positive note as there are a LOT more spring options for gas than diesel


So, what do you drive? I was more surprised by the fender differences. Ground to lower pinch seam on the body front and rear is what I went with after the above advise.

1.5” springs on the rubicon brought the front 1/4” Lower than the rear…. Which is good enough for me….
However- ground to fender the front is 1.25~” higher in the front.

Headlights are easy to adjust.
Pull as close to a wall as you can on level ground, mark the top of the light cut off with 2” painters tape(top edge of tape), back up 25’ adjust until the top of the cut off line is at the bottom of the painters tape.

well time being a scarce commodity for me, I told the shop that I wanted to keep the factory rake…. 3x in fact. I wouldn’t have been upset if it were even close, but measuring the pinch weld, it’s an inch lower in the back, when it was 2” higher in the back.

Yes, it is a diesel, and I had to wait 5 weeks for the parts. Just not sure I want a “puck” fix instead of the correct spring.

thanks for the aiming tip

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