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Mojave is fantastic offroad

aevgladitorrubi

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Wanted to start a good-news thread here, by saying that I’ve had my Mojave on some mild/moderate forestry trails … and I have to say that I am beyond impressed. This thing is fantastic. Nothing that I’ve done is as wild and crazy as some of the U-tuberz, but every time that I’ve been somewhere that seemed sketch, it just simply amazed me. I keep expecting something to cause some tire slippage or something, and you really have to be trying. This last weekend we climbed a non-maintained hill at a 14 degree pitch, with 9 degree roll, and it seemed effortless in 4lo; no spin, no clawing, no lockers needed. We barely detected an issue in some soft creek bed in 2hi. When in 4lo, off-road+ is usually only needed on ledges and I prefer to keep it off. In 4hi, off-road+ should just be renamed to be the “fun button”. Has Anyone else just been flat out amazed with the off-road prowess of their gladi?
Yes-- JTRD Rubi with 2.5" lift and 37s...
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Bjeepz

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Florida Mojave

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As mentioned in your dedicated thread, OR+ changes tuning, shift points, throttle response, etc.
I think that most would agree that lockers aren't designed to be run for long durations at higher speeds, and that lockers should only be used sparingly when negotiating certain parts of trails that might require them, like climbing a dune or powering through a sloppy mudhole.
Lockers do what the word implies. They LOCK the differential so that both wheels turn at the same rate. That's OK and fine for slippery media like snow, mud, sand, and rocks at lower speeds, but it's probably ill-advised to turn them on and leave them on for a lengthy drive on the beach.

Unless you're routinely getting stuck in 4H while in OR+, you're going to be better off, or at least the vehicle will be better off, to not run lockers when they're not really needed.

Note the bulleted list under 4H for OR+
The vehicle's performance and behaviors are altered to your advantage.

Off road Plus.jpg
So a question comes to mind, has anyone with an aftermarket pedal controller experienced any issues while on OR+ since this mode changes the pedal reaction time? Good or Bad?
 

whiteglad

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I have hit "potholes" etc. on dirt roads and trails even not going fast--makes me appreciate the Mojave suspension even more.
 

BearFootSam

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Going to say that's Assateague as a former life long resident of MD. Before moving west last year we spent a couple months living at a family house in OC, perfect jeep territory, top down & doors off. Just have to keep an eye on that salty air.
 

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legacy_etu

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Lunentucker I was surprised by the result of putting the rear differential shock on my Mojave. I did have bounce on sand at times usually crossing the dunes, totally gone and there is a better feel on rear all the time. Green71 turned me onto it and others also, they came standard on apparently manual shift Sport models. But a lot of Gladiators have the mount on diff and on frame…..Jack
Interesting that the manuals have this shock. I noticed the mounts when I was attempting to pot my rear locker and was wondering why they were there. Huh.
 

BearFootSam

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As mentioned in your dedicated thread, OR+ changes tuning, shift points, throttle response, etc.
I think that most would agree that lockers aren't designed to be run for long durations at higher speeds, and that lockers should only be used sparingly when negotiating certain parts of trails that might require them, like climbing a dune or powering through a sloppy mudhole.
Lockers do what the word implies. They LOCK the differential so that both wheels turn at the same rate. That's OK and fine for slippery media like snow, mud, sand, and rocks at lower speeds, but it's probably ill-advised to turn them on and leave them on for a lengthy drive on the beach.

Unless you're routinely getting stuck in 4H while in OR+, you're going to be better off, or at least the vehicle will be better off, to not run lockers when they're not really needed.

Note the bulleted list under 4H for OR+
The vehicle's performance and behaviors are altered to your advantage.

Off road Plus.jpg
Apart from Sand, Off+ w/ 4Hi is great for steep forest roads with bad washboarding. If the rear end is light you can experience some rear axle hop when the ECU cuts power to limit the slip it reads. Off+ as indicated in the manual, will disable 'engine management' which is a fancy way of stating that the engine won't cut fuel to limit slipping.

Bsically Off+ by disabling the ECU management allows the slip to occur instead of cutting power which only exacerbates hop. I see essentially the same thing on my Triumph Tiger, unless I put it in offroad to turn off TC, the ECU will cut power on slippery gravel causing the bike to lose momentum and risk bogging. With TC off I can just feed more gas allowing the rear to spin a bit through loose sections and sustain drive until it bites again. Wheel slip bad on pavement, good offroad (mostly).

You never want to be in that situation where a vehicle's TC is so aggressive it will get you stuck refusing to allow spin where it's needed.
 

Minty JL

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Going to say that's Assateague as a former life long resident of MD. Before moving west last year we spent a couple months living at a family house in OC, perfect jeep territory, top down & doors off. Just have to keep an eye on that salty air.
Actually that was in OBX, we stay up on the north end in Corova
 

Minty JL

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Lunentucker I was surprised by the result of putting the rear differential shock on my Mojave. I did have bounce on sand at times usually crossing the dunes, totally gone and there is a better feel on rear all the time. Green71 turned me onto it and others also, they came standard on apparently manual shift Sport models. But a lot of Gladiators have the mount on diff and on frame…..Jack
IMG_1696.jpeg
Link for this..... I need it. Thanks
 

Wheelin98TJ

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An anti rock is a compromised solution. Makes your on road manners less mannerly in corners. I went apex and would never go back.
Apex is also a compromised solution. Better road manners for not as good off road performance you'd have with an Antirock.
 

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Minty JL

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Minty you might want it but it ain’t cheap!
Call Benny at allMoparparts.com
68341435ac. axle damper. $ 221.84. (1)
68352496ab. Bracket. $64.02. (1)
6104719aa hex flange nut. $4.64. (2)
6512810aa. Hex bolt m14-1.5. $4.45. (2)
6511942aa. Hex bolt m10.2.50 -30. (4)
Comes to list of $ 310.16 Benny gives discounts to us.
I bought mine off a member who bought one but did not have the frame bracket, for much less , but I would spend it again after my results. You need to look for the frame bracket and four threaded bolt bosses on top of diff. before ordering….Jack
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Thanks Jack!

I've spent more on dumber shit LOL

EDIT/Update: my rear diff and frame has all of the needed mounting points.........placing my order now
 
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Rahkmalla

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Apex is also a compromised solution. Better road manners for not as good off road performance you'd have with an Antirock.
I'd love an explanation how being disconnected is worse offroad than an antirock
 

Bjeepz

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The antirock will provide some resistance making rigs that run them more stable and less prone to excessive lean in off camber situations. Have you ever been in a situation where being connected was helpful when badly off camber but also need to be disconnected to keep your wheels on the ground? Antirock time!
 
 







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